Missouri 1983 SuperSport 16

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
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93
You can change it to Missouri 1983 SuperSport 16. I think you can leave it where it is. Thanks, Don
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
Messages
93
No Title

Have the hull pretty much cleaned out, I'm going to use cleaner on it and power wash it tomorrow to see what I have. Took the transom out this morning. It was surprisingly solid considering the floors were shot. I figured I may as well swap it out as long as I have everything torn apart. I had a hard time getting the transom out until I put a scab on the transom and then used a bottle jack to pop it out of the channel. I tugged and tugged from above and got nowhere. This worked really well and did not put stress on the bottom of the boat. I gently put pressure on both sides and it popped right out. I had a small board under the jack to spread the pressure around. And I was at the corner of the bottom, sides and transom so it's a pretty structurally sound area of the boat. I think I read where others used this approach - it made popping the transom out really easy.
 

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ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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That's some ingenuity there. I pried mine out with a 2x4.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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May 12, 2014
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I backed mine under the kid's swing set and ran a ratchet strap thru the splashwell drain holes (inside the transom skin) and up and over the cross beam. Started to lift the hull off the trailer, but a fat old man stepped into the boat and it popped right out.
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
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You gotta figure out some way to get some leverage on it that's for sure. I doubt many of them will just lift out manually unless its really rotten. Working on the top of my gunwales to get carpet glue off. I bought a little can of Goof Off which works with steel wool. I'll have to see if they sell bigger cans at a better price.
 

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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Got a lot of the glue off of this today. Came up with a system where I soaked a 6" x 12" rag with Goof Off and then laid it on the top of the gunwales for about 5 minutes. That softened the glue up pretty good to follow up with a scraper. And then I would soak steel wool in Goof Off for a final scrubbing and it came up pretty easily. I used my power washer to knock a lot out of the hull including the injected foam residue. It also took off a lot of the carpet remnants. I'm wondering if I should spend the time and energy to get all of the old carpet glue out since I will be covering it up with new carpet.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
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13,787
It's up to you but it could make the new carpet look bumpy with all the old glue so knocking it down some would be a good idea.

I see you had some steel rivet mandrels left behind by Starcraftsmen too. I used some rust dissolver to get that stuff off my hull, I had a ton of rusty old mandrels in the bottom of my SS.

I see you have 2 piece gunnels in your model too. I replaced all the bind rivets in mine as the mandrels are steel and were rusted out leaving the rivets loose or soon to be and the gunnels were sorta floppy. I also added a hundred or so new rivets since they were 5/32nds. :D

fetch
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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Carpet glue is gunky and will stick to anything so definitely no need to get it squeaky clean where you're gonna re-carpet.
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
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93
Just curious to get opinions. This boat had a bunch of overstuffed upholstery with buttons, vinyl wrapped consoles, and basically no metal exposed. Does anyone ever just paint this stuff and leave it exposed? I tend to like things simpler. Maybe its because I ripped all this rotten stuff out. This even had a padded splashwell!
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Whoa padded everything with buttons, that's pimpin'!

fetch


On my SS I painted everything you mentioned and on the top surfaces, bow deck, gunnels and console tops are all painted with Epihanies poly beads mixed in the paint for a nice durable surface that doesn't get marred up. I also added catalyst hardener to the concoction.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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Same here. Console, gunnel tops, and even gunnel sides are all painted. I patched the holes in the bow area gunnels with JB Weld with a little square of tin flashing applied from behind like chewing gum on a school desk and sanded smooth (patched all holes like that actually).
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
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93
Paint it is! I may try to wrap the consoles with vinyl. I guess 3M 777 might do the trick.
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
Messages
93
45 degrees this weekend so I'm going to build the transom in the basement. Have 3/4" marine plywood. Is Titebond Waterproof good to use? Or I have some chopped strand fiberglass I can layer in between and use polyester resin or is that overkill?
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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TiteBond3 is a good choice. I used polyurethane based glue (Gorilla glue or TiteBond has 1 w a purple label).

I'd use 1 of those ^^^ glues before I used epoxy w or w/out glass..

And I'd never use polyester resin and glass on a tin boat anywhere.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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I like Titebond 3 and the poly glue works good too but can be more of a pain to deal with.
 

Laker99

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Feb 27, 2013
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I assume 1 bottle is enough for a transom? Just curious and not that I intend to do it, but is glass and resin corrosive to aluminum? I know you have to use aluminum rivets and stainless nuts, bolts, and washers. And no PT lumber.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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I assume 1 bottle is enough for a transom? Just curious and not that I intend to do it, but is glass and resin corrosive to aluminum? I know you have to use aluminum rivets and stainless nuts, bolts, and washers. And no PT lumber.

1 decent size bottle should do it. I have never heard of resin being corrosive.
 
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