Re: mirrorcraft northport troller tinny - need rehab guidance
Now that my mirrorcraft is cleaned out to the bottom, I have to work on the transom. Its got a slight bow to it thinking it was the weight of the 35hp motor. Ezmobee said the motor size is good for a 16 foot tinny and jasoutside felt the bow in the transom was rotting and weak. So today I thought I'd get fresh fuel and try to start this engine that the previous owner said hasn't run in two years. To my surprise, after a short choke it fired right up. Forward and reverse worked fine. So now that I know this engine works fine and based upon what Ezmobee and jasoutside said, I think I'll keep it and use it rather than buy another late model used motor. I'm real happy because I bought this 16' boat, trailer, and 35hp merc on Craigslist and was a little skeptical that the engine would even run because we couldn't get it running at the sellers house. But I thought $900 was a great price for the boat and trailer even if the engine didn't run so I bought it. I'm shocked, so far everything other than a rotted floor after 27 years is just fine. So now I have a few more hurdles to jump before I start painting, filling small pitting, and rebuilding which brings me to several questions:
1. I want to leak test it once I get the engine off. My buddy says fill it about 6-12 inches deep with water and look for leaks. But I'm a bit weary putting that much weight in it as I'm afraid it could pop rivets on the ribs. I'm more inclined to take it to a lake and sit in it for 10 minutes. Yes its a bit more work but I don't know if I like the idea of putting stress on the inside pushing out rather than on the outside pushing in. Thoughts on this?
2. On the inside, (see pics above), there was plywood covered with carpet and at the edge of the plywood, the carpet curved up on a 45 degree angle for about 6 - 8 inches over some sheet aluminum to where the water line is at which point it was glued. I'm thinking about raising the center stringer so the plywood with carpet is flat right to the sides of the boat. This means that in some places, it will be 3 to 4 inches up the sides of the foam filled boxes. But it will give the boat a cleaner look (without a taper up on the sides) and will allow you to step 6 inches closer to the sides of the boat. I don't know if the CG (Center of Gravity) will change that much with a 3 - 4 inch raise. The deck will then be at about the water line as opposed to under the water line. Also, at the very back, it will get the plywood up off the flat ribs and out of any accumulated water. It will create an airspace under the floor which it really doesn't in its current configuration. Will this cause the boat to lean over more when standing at the very edge of the deck? I'm not sure what a 3 - 4 inch difference in height will make but there are a lot of people with a lot more experience than me. Thoughts on raising the deck a few inches?
3. lastly, the trailer is the normal galvanized type. Its got some rusty spots and just looks dirty and un-kept. Lots of corrosion beginning to appear like a powdery rough surface.. It was previously used in salt water as a crabbing vessel. I'd like to wire brush it and paint it. I realize that some of the bolts will end up being "painted on" and difficult to remove in the future if I paint it, but I was curious of others paint their trailers or just let them weather. Sure would appreciate some commentary on trailer maintenance.
As always, thanks in advance for the guidance. I appreciate all the knowledge I can get from you guys.
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