Milkshake within minutes. Engine Block pressure test good.

w2wlake2lake

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I have a 2006 merc 4.3l and im getting lots of water in the oil within minutes of changing oil. I have changed all gaskets including the head gaskets. I did a block pressure test of 15 psi with thermostat pulled, oil drain plug out, and all spark plugs out. No leak! Is that telling me that the block, intake manifold and heads are good? Compression test on all cylinders seem good. I have also tested the exhaust manifolds with acetone and then with air pressure test. Does this only leave me with the risers being bad? They seem to look ok but I have no way to test them. No signs of rust. Is there any thing else to check? With as much water that im getting I would have thought I would be easy to find but no luck. Please help I would like to go boating again.
 

alldodge

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I have a 2006 merc 4.3l and im getting lots of water in the oil within minutes of changing oil. I have changed all gaskets including the head gaskets. I did a block pressure test of 15 psi with thermostat pulled, oil drain plug out, and all spark plugs out. No leak! Is that telling me that the block, intake manifold and heads are good? Compression test on all cylinders seem good. I have also tested the exhaust manifolds with acetone and then with air pressure test. Does this only leave me with the risers being bad? They seem to look ok but I have no way to test them. No signs of rust. Is there any thing else to check? With as much water that im getting I would have thought I would be easy to find but no luck. Please help I would like to go boating again.

Howdy

Is this an open cooling engine?
Do you have an oil cooler (not a power steering cooler) on the motor?
 

w2wlake2lake

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Open cooling engine with dry joint riser/exhaust. No oil cooler that i know off. just a power steering cooler.
 

HT32BSX115

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II have also tested the exhaust manifolds with acetone and then with air pressure test. Does this only leave me with the risers being bad? They seem to look ok but I have no way to test them. No signs of rust. Is there any thing else to check? With as much water that im getting I would have thought I would be easy to find but no luck. Please help I would like to go boating again.

Leaking/cracked exhaust manifolds and risers do not allow enough water back into an engine to cause "milkshake". AND, it can only happen after shutdown. If there's no water in the oil prior to startup, even severely leaking manifolds and (non-dryjoint) risers wouldn't allow any water into the engine because the exhaust would blow it out.

How exactly did you do your pressure "check"? AND How did you remove the previous water from the oil sump?

If the oil got there from rain or a flooded engine compartment, it's not possible to remove ALL the water in only 1 oil drain/fill. It might take a few changes to get it all.
 

w2wlake2lake

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I blocked off the hoses going to risers and exhaust manifolds. Removed the thermostat. removed spark plugs. opened oil drain plug and oil stick. (no oil in engine). Injected the air into the hose from the power steering cooler. I put in 15 psi and it holds at that. I didnt check for water in the oil before I started the engine. Should I try that with or without the riser/exhaust?
 

alldodge

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After reviewing your serial number I don't see how you can get water in the oil, with an open system, no oil cooler and the cooling system passed a 15 lb test. Just doesn't add up. if it was closed system there could be more possibilities
 

w2wlake2lake

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ok maybe I do have a oil cooler. I just not sure what one looks like. There is something back there that maybe one. Its a plastic housing with a couple of rubber lines off it. one line feeds the power steering. If that is the oil cooler im guessing thats my problem.
 

w2wlake2lake

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Yeah it looks like just a power steering cooler. I dont see a oil cooler if I have one. So its still not making sense. Im running out of ideas. Like I said. The only thing I cant test is the risers but I dont think I would get that much water in the oil from them. Do I need to run more oil thru to clean the oil? How much water does it take to make all the oil milky?
 

jamespjackson95

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Did you take the heads to a machine shop to be decked checked.. I know you pressure tested the cooling system but it's always a good idea to do that when you replace HG's... Did you check block for flatness? How long did you let the 15psi sit? If just a few mins let it sit for a few hours and come back to check it later to see if it has dropped any.
 

HT32BSX115

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How long did it hold pressure after you disconnected the air pressure source?

While it would be nice to know the source of the water, It might take 2 or 3 oil changes to remove enough water to have it stop looking "milky".

You could use a cheep 5W30 oil to do the oil changes. Or, some here would suggest pouring a quart or so of diesel or kerosene in the oil to help emulsify the water better Don't run it very long and stay at idle while you do it.

Thinner is "better", but not too thin........

After you change a few times (3)....... Then run it like you "stole" it to boil out the rest of the water.
 
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jamespjackson95

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Maybe someone else can correct me on this but if the risers or manifold were cracked wouldn't they leak back on top of the Pistons and hydrolock the motor? I understand they could eventually get past the rings but first would they not go there?
 

w2wlake2lake

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Ill check the pressure test for longer. If its leaking that slow its going to be impossible to find though. I didnt get the heads checked but I guess I can do a leak down test. That might show something.
 

HT32BSX115

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Maybe someone else can correct me on this but if the risers or manifold were cracked wouldn't they leak back on top of the Pistons and hydrolock the motor? I understand they could eventually get past the rings but first would they not go there?
Yes they could.

But you generally don't have more than 2 ex valves open on one side, the amount of water that could get in there is small, it doesn't all leak past the rings and if you were running the engine after, for very long, the water would evaporate quickly.

I had that very same problem on both sides of a V-8. It hydrolocked every time I shut down and then tried to restart after less than 10 min or so. (like to pick up a skier)

If I waited more than about 30 min or so, or overnight, it would restart normally (indicating that the water leaked past the rings after about 30 min.) I never had enough water to appear milky.

When I pulled the heads, 1 piston on each side had evidence of water that had sat on top of the piston for quite some time. I never had milky looking oil at all though

It's unlikely (even with both risers or manifolds leaking) ..... you would get enough water in the oil after a shutdown make it "milky"

You should pump the block up to 15 or 20 PSI, close the supply valve (the gage is on the engine side right?) and disconnect the air supply. Let it sit (compressor OFF so you can hear) and put your ear up to the oil fill, and near each sparkplug hole and see if you can hear anything.

Even try putting some soapy water on the intake manifold where they bolt to the head and see if you see bubbles.

If there's no leaks, the engine should hold pressure nearly indefinitely.

Let me also add that if the block is actually cracked, it might not leak when cold as much it would leak if hot (or at normal running temp)
 
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HT32BSX115

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Ill change the oil a couple more times. I hope thats all it is.

Run it fairly hard (fully up to normal operating temp) before each change too...........

That means that you'll have to put it in the water. You really cannot do it on a flush adapter.
 

smassey22180

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One time I had an intake manifold gasket leak water into the oil after a 4.3 reassemble. Check the gasket edges at the tops of the V to make sure they are even. One of mine was 1/8" lower at the rear and letting a ton of water in.
 

HT32BSX115

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One time I had an intake manifold gasket leak water into the oil after a 4.3 reassemble. Check the gasket edges at the tops of the V to make sure they are even. One of mine was 1/8" lower at the rear and letting a ton of water in.

AND, that would "hiss" like a snake during a block & heads pressure check!
 
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