Mercury 500 Thunderbolt - Sat for a very long time.

[jimmbo]

If water has been sitting in the gear case for 20 - 25 years, I will assume the gears/bearings/shafts are gonna be in bad shape too. Only way to tell is to pull the bearing carrier and prop shaft out and take a look

 

[Loozerdk]

I hope gears, bearings and so on are in good shape, there was water in the case, but also oil, when spinning the prop by hand everything sounds normal, and it spins freely.

Did get a bit of work done today, got the steering broken a little bit more free, its still a bit stiff, but a lot better than before, also got the tilt broken free, i hope the steering will losen up totally at some point, ran out of grease.

In case other people got the same problem, here is what i did:
Drilled and tapped another hole for a zerk fitting in top of the steering swivel, added good amounts of penetrating oil, and regular motor oil, and forced it in with a compressor, then the engine was strapped to a table face down, and a long tube was fitted in the mount of the engine, and then slowly move it back and forward, also used a bit of heat to melt the old grease.

It did take the better part of 5 hours the get it freeish, will keep working it back and forward tomorrow, will also try and see if the engine will run.

 

[gm280]

Loozerdk, One thing you need to remember is even if you don't put the engine in gear (forward or reverse) the pinion gear and drive shaft are turning when the engine is running. And since you know you have issues in the gear case lower foot section, I don't know if cranking the engine is a real good idea. Use you own judgement there. JMHO

 

[Loozerdk]

Loozerdk, One thing you need to remember is even if you don't put the engine in gear (forward or reverse) the pinion gear and drive shaft are turning when the engine is running. And since you know you have issues in the gear case lower foot section, I don't know if cranking the engine is a real good idea. Use you own judgement there. JMHO

I will remember that, but i dont got the right tools to taking the lower gear case apart, but maybe i can sneak my inspections camera into the drain hole, and take a look at the gears.

I am hope the water sat so low in the case that the bearings and gears are unharmed, and still was protected by the gear lube, but time will tell.

 

[60sboater]

Did you refill the L/U for temporary testing/running purposes?

 

[Loozerdk]

Did you refill the L/U for temporary testing/running purposes?

Not yet, still working on getting the steering swivel loose, will of cause refill it before attempting to run the engine, got some 80w90 GL5 standing, i would think that should do just fine for testing the powerhead, later i will replace it with the right quicksilver stuff.

 

[jimmbo]

Good luck regarding the water cooled gears. They sat in water for 25 years... you did post that mostly water drained out.

 

[Loozerdk]

Good luck regarding the water cooled gears. They sat in water for 25 years... you did post that mostly water drained out.

Yes, that was posted before it finished draining out, so my mistake - i jumped to a conclusion there, i did post of picture of the oil that came out of the gearbox, the oil and water had to seperate in the gearbox from standing.

I will however check up on the bearing if possible using my inspection camera, if bad i will go from there, i am not in a hurry to get the engine on a boat, that will not happen before next summer anyway, it would however be nice to verify that the powerhead itself is in good working order, so i know its worth to spend some money on the rest of the engine.

 

[jimmbo]

The bearings are located on front of the forward gear, on the back of the reverse gear, and surrounding the pinion. Totally out of site. The only bearing that is visible without gearcase disassembly is the bearing directly below the water pump. At any rate, the gearcase should get a vacuum and pressure test. Was the water clear/colourless?

 

[Loozerdk]

The bearings are located on front of the forward gear, on the back of the reverse gear, and surrounding the pinion. Totally out of site. The only bearing that is visible without gearcase disassembly is the bearing directly below the water pump. At any rate, the gearcase should get a vacuum and pressure test. Was the water clear/colourless?

Water was crystal clear.

Taking the gearcase apart is a little bit outside my comfort zone, was looking into it the other day, still going to take a look using my small camera, it think it should fit into the drain hole of the gearcase.

 

[gm280]

Loozerdk, If it is any consolation, I had noting but total rust inside my lower foot on a engine I purchased in a boat, motor, trailer deal some years ago. But even with rust on everything, the gears, prop shaft, clutch dog and pinion gears all cleaned up and looked near new. Those parts are hardened steel and don't rust like other items as bad. Now the seals, bearings and everything else had to be replaced, but those parts are easily obtained. So until you can verify the gears and clutch dog and prop shaft are toast, clean them up first and see. JMHO

 

[Loozerdk]

gm280, My main problem is getting parts, Mercury parts of that vintage is not available here in Denmark, so everything has to be ordered from the states, and then shipping is the main problem, its extremely expensive, i was looking into what it would cost to get an 10 dollar part shipped to Denmark from this site, and it showed as 179 dollars.

I still have a small hope that everything is okay inside the gearcase since the water was clear, and not tainted by rust, but time will tell.

 

[jimmbo]

Looking at the cutaways of the lower unit, you might be able to see the forward gear bearing

 

[Loozerdk]

Little bit of an update, had some time to work on the engine today.

First of, the steering is 100% free, nice and smooth, it took some drastic measures, had to drill and tap for a zerk fitting in the top of the steering swivel, looks like its with brass bearings/sleves.

Also had a look into the lower case, the only part i could see was shiny, so i don't think there is any rust in there.

Plan for tomorrow is to remove the carburators, get them cleaned, and then see if the engine will fire.

 

[Loozerdk]

So, i wonder if anybody would belive if i said the engine fired right up, without cleaning carburators or anything, i connected fuel, and pulled the cord around 10 times, and the engine fired right up, and settled into idle.

Even impeller works, it had water coming out the tell tale.

But its not all good, the lower leg is leaking, water is getting into the oil, so it will need a reseal, will change the impeller at the same time.

 

[60sboater]

good news

 

[gm280]

Some times things work out better then thought. Sounds like this is one of those times. Once you get everything repaired, replaced and fixed, I suggest you clean the oils and grease off the outside becasue that is just a collection point for all types of debris and not only will looks bad, but can become a problem itself. JMHO

 

[Loozerdk]

Some times things work out better then thought. Sounds like this is one of those times. Once you get everything repaired, replaced and fixed, I suggest you clean the oils and grease off the outside becasue that is just a collection point for all types of debris and not only will looks bad, but can become a problem itself. JMHO

I hope so, but everything is good so far, will clean the engine before it goes on the boat, there is a few spots that could use a bit of paint anyway.

Still can't belive that engine started right up.

Just got home with the boat for the engine, decided on a 15 foot speedboat.

 

[GA_Boater]

Looze - :thumb: These old Mercs are pretty durable. Mine also sat for years and it didn't take much to get running before doing carbs, etc.

Nice looking boat.

 

[Loozerdk]

Looze - :thumb: These old Mercs are pretty durable. Mine also sat for years and it didn't take much to get running before doing carbs, etc.

Nice looking boat.

Thanks.

Maybe a stupid question, but is there anyway to charge a battery from a Mercury 500 with breakerless ignition, this type: http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/27.pdf It looks like no.