Mercruiser Shifting Issues

[Sea Ray Mick]

FOUND IT
The anchor on the cable came out of its anchor point on the controller.
First I pulled the stern drive back just enough to make sure it was still engaged with the shift shaft and aligned correctly.
I then proceeded to pull the control box with reassembling it and once I was able to lift it out of the pocket I could the control cable had come out of its anchor point on the control - simple fix, but time consuming - once it was nestled back its place I used a zip tie to tie the two cables together, just nought to keep them from move side to side and dislodging again.
This thing shifts so smooth now it feels brand new.
However.....the cut out switch still doesn't seem to be activating properly....or at least to my satisfaction.
Maybe with a load on it when doing the lake test will make the difference - these dry land test never tell the whole story anyway, so we'll see how the lake test goes and let you all know how it turns out.
Meanwhile, any specific suggestions or procedures for adjustments to effect the cutout switch would help.
Thanks to everyone who contributed during work, I appreciate all the feedback and assistance.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

FOUND IT
The anchor on the cable came out of its anchor point on the controller.
First I pulled the stern drive back just enough to make sure it was still engaged with the shift shaft and aligned correctly.
I then proceeded to pull the control box with reassembling it and once I was able to lift it out of the pocket I could the control cable had come out of its anchor point on the control - simple fix, but time consuming - once it was nestled back its place I used a zip tie to tie the two cables together, just nought to keep them from move side to side and dislodging again.
This thing shifts so smooth now it feels brand new.
However.....the cut out switch still doesn't seem to be activating properly....or at least to my satisfaction.
Maybe with a load on it when doing the lake test will make the difference - these dry land test never tell the whole story anyway, so we'll see how the lake test goes and let you all know how it turns out.
Meanwhile, any specific suggestions or procedures for adjustments to effect the cutout switch would help.
Thanks to everyone who contributed during work, I appreciate all the feedback and assistance.

you did that picture of the new updated of the switch in the posting .

 

[Bondo]

However.....the cut out switch still doesn't seem to be activating properly....or at least to my satisfaction.
Maybe with a load on it when doing the lake test will make the difference - these dry land test never tell the whole story anyway, so we'll see how the lake test goes and let you all know how it turns out.
Meanwhile, any specific suggestions or procedures for adjustments to effect the cutout switch would help.

Ayuh,...... If not in the water, there should be absolutely No movement, at all with the switch, or switch bracket,....

 

[Sea Ray Mick]

Ayuh,...... If not in the water, there should be absolutely No movement, at all with the switch, or switch bracket,....

Makes sense......we'll see how the lake test goes.....haven't got to the lake yet but hopefully today; I have two boats that need to be tested after repairs, trying to kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.

 

[tank1949]

I'm having the same problem with a "79 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer w/Merc. 260 and Alpha One Gen 1 Stern Drive.
Initially I thought there was shift cable issues as it wasn't engaging the outdrive (fwd or rev.) so I removed the outdrive to inspect the lower shift cable and do a thorough upper gear inspection, which I did; as I was preparing to separate upper from lower units and inspecting the gimbal bearing, I used a flashlight to look inside, it was then I realized the coupler was wiped out (!@#$%^&).
I had already reset the adjustments on the cables to their original positions and followed the instructions in the manual as well as following instruction on two good YouTube video's to make sure I got it right.
I have since replaced the Engine Coupler and both control cables with Quick Silver Platinum Cables and adjusted according to spec.
Now I cannot get the interrupt switch to work properly; FWD & Neutral work good, but when I try to get reverse to engage the interrupt switch rides high on the mechanism - I've tried adjustments in very small increments until I've got it the best it seems to want to adjust.
Without starting the motor reverse doesn't seem to want to fully engage, but when I put the water hose on it, it will actually engage reverse but it doesn't feel or sound right. I've found that I can wiggle the lower shift cable and the interrupt switch will eventually return to the correct position, but it doesn't "interrupt" the engine during the shifting procedure like its supposed to. This unit was working fine before I changed the coupler and I've spent HOURS going over the video's etc readjusting trying to make it work right, with no success - I'm at a loss here, I can usually fix anything but this one has me baffled for sure. Been trying to get a boat mechanic to come look at it and help diagnose the situation but so far no help - planning to pull the lower shift cable tomorrow and look for problems with the cable.
This unit also has the revers lock mechanism on and seems to have excess play in the control arm; wondering if that could be contributing to problem.
Any help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated - there's some pretty intelligent folks on this forum and I've followed a lot of advice ya'all have contributed - I appreciate all your expertise and experience.

Thanks in advance
Mick

always test shifter with od in the water. The system needs the resistance.

 

[Sea Ray Mick]

FOUND THE PROBLEM ARGGG...
Just as I suspected, the rubber anchor built onto the cable ends (in this case on the control cable end) had slipped out of the control housing where it "lives".
I pulled the control box off and simply put the rubber "grommet" (if I can use that term) back in and reassembled it. Did a lake test but didn't get to actually get out on the lake because I found there's a leak somewhere and the bilge was filling up with water (quite excessively really) so I didn't want to risk flooding the boat so.....back to the shop to diagnose the leak.
Fast forward......went back to the lake to better find the leak. I think the drive shaft bellows is leaking but I want to make sure its not a transom seal issue or something else, so I backed the boat in a little at a time to find if it was leaking low or high in the unit. Sure enough it was leaking higher up in the unit so I suspected the drive shaft bellows is the issue here.
NOTE: Dont always ass-u-me that the bellows is the problem. I've recently discovered that the transom will warp on some of the older boats and the seal between the transom plate and the transom will have a gap where water can leak through and into the hull/bilge. simply sliding a feeler gauge between the plate and transom is one way to make that determination, and it won't necessarily be all the way around the plate, just a small portion, usually towards the bottom of the plate.
Fast FWD......back to my "Back Yard Shop" (LOL) pulled the stern drive (AGAIN - 4TH time now), removed the bell-housing and while I was poking around trying to find out how to get on the bellows clamps to loosen it up (whoever installed those bellows the last time got EVERY CLAMP positioned wrong - don't even know how they got them on they were so off), anywhoo, fiddling around, when I looked up in the bell-housing the bellows had come completely off without even touching it !@#$%^&*.
You can't even imagine how upset I was, especially after just ordering a full kit when I didn't even need it.
I did do a shift test while still on the trailer and everything works great; the cutout/interrupter switch is working like its supposed to so I'm glad that issue is resolved at least.
Today 8/15/2023: I'm waiting on parts. I'm going to take the safe route and just replace everything: Gimble Bearing, all the Boots (save for the shift cable boot since it's brand new), Seals O'rings, gaskets, water pump/impeller hose etc., so I'm cleaning everything up and prepping for installation of new parts.
Further updates will follow as I progress.......should I do a video on reassembly ? would that be helpful for anybody or no ?
This is also going to involve replacing trim send/sensor switches, and that particular project will probably be more daunting that the rest of it, especially on the other boat (1983 SeaRay, Merc. 260, Alpha one Gen I - actually both boats have the same clamp but the gimble ring is different on the '83) since it has the extra bolt on the transom clamp that is almost impossible to get out/on without removing the Gimble Ring.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

FOUND THE PROBLEM ARGGG...
Just as I suspected, the rubber anchor built onto the cable ends (in this case on the control cable end) had slipped out of the control housing where it "lives".
I pulled the control box off and simply put the rubber "grommet" (if I can use that term) back in and reassembled it. Did a lake test but didn't get to actually get out on the lake because I found there's a leak somewhere and the bilge was filling up with water (quite excessively really) so I didn't want to risk flooding the boat so.....back to the shop to diagnose the leak.
Fast forward......went back to the lake to better find the leak. I think the drive shaft bellows is leaking but I want to make sure its not a transom seal issue or something else, so I backed the boat in a little at a time to find if it was leaking low or high in the unit. Sure enough it was leaking higher up in the unit so I suspected the drive shaft bellows is the issue here.
NOTE: Dont always ass-u-me that the bellows is the problem. I've recently discovered that the transom will warp on some of the older boats and the seal between the transom plate and the transom will have a gap where water can leak through and into the hull/bilge. simply sliding a feeler gauge between the plate and transom is one way to make that determination, and it won't necessarily be all the way around the plate, just a small portion, usually towards the bottom of the plate.
Fast FWD......back to my "Back Yard Shop" (LOL) pulled the stern drive (AGAIN - 4TH time now), removed the bell-housing and while I was poking around trying to find out how to get on the bellows clamps to loosen it up (whoever installed those bellows the last time got EVERY CLAMP positioned wrong - don't even know how they got them on they were so off), anywhoo, fiddling around, when I looked up in the bell-housing the bellows had come completely off without even touching it !@#$%^&*.
You can't even imagine how upset I was, especially after just ordering a full kit when I didn't even need it.
I did do a shift test while still on the trailer and everything works great; the cutout/interrupter switch is working like its supposed to so I'm glad that issue is resolved at least.
Today 8/15/2023: I'm waiting on parts. I'm going to take the safe route and just replace everything: Gimble Bearing, all the Boots (save for the shift cable boot since it's brand new), Seals O'rings, gaskets, water pump/impeller hose etc., so I'm cleaning everything up and prepping for installation of new parts.
Further updates will follow as I progress.......should I do a video on reassembly ? would that be helpful for anybody or no ?
This is also going to involve replacing trim send/sensor switches, and that particular project will probably be more daunting that the rest of it, especially on the other boat (1983 SeaRay, Merc. 260, Alpha one Gen I - actually both boats have the same clamp but the gimble ring is different on the '83) since it has the extra bolt on the transom clamp that is almost impossible to get out/on without removing the Gimble Ring.

on the forums of the pictures ?

 

[Sea Ray Mick]

on the forums of the pictures ?

Maybe a Moderator could provide some guidance....
If I get enough interest I would be willing to do it.

 

[ROY WILLIAMS]

Maybe a Moderator could provide some guidance....
If I get enough interest I would be willing to do it.

well those pictures in the forums inspect it and do the members ..