Mercruiser 898 Exhaust log to Center rise?

cecho

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I think it's time to replace the exhaust on my boat. It looks like the cost to upgrade to a center rise is going to be about the same as to replace the current log style exhaust. Is there any reason I shouldn't do the upgrade? I read somewhere while searching that the power steering might be an issue?
 

alldodge

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Unable to say anything about the alternator, but your going to need to replace the thermostat housing also
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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A few years ago I posted up all the requirements, including rehosing, for just this conversion. Do a search. I included diagrams and all the parts. If the diagrams are missing (thank you photo bucket), let me know and I'll dig them up again and relink then.
 

cecho

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 29, 2013
Messages
367
A few years ago I posted up all the requirements, including rehosing, for just this conversion. Do a search. I included diagrams and all the parts. If the diagrams are missing (thank you photo bucket), let me know and I'll dig them up again and relink then.

Great! Does this look like the right post to you?
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...96#post6393896


Which method do you think is best? Warm, cold? Dry joint, wet joint? This boat will be seeing west coast cold current salt water so I assume warm is the best route to go. I've even been toying with the idea of converting to fresh water cooling since I'll be replacing the engine as well.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Great! Does this look like the right post to you?
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...96#post6393896

Yep, that's the one. Well done on finding it... :)

cecho said:
Which method do you think is best? Warm, cold? Dry joint, wet joint? This boat will be seeing west coast cold current salt water so I assume warm is the best route to go. I've even been toying with the idea of converting to fresh water cooling since I'll be replacing the engine as well.

Definitely dry-joint, regardless. And with it operating in COLD water, yes, I'd be leaning towards warm manifolds.

If you do convert to closed cooling, then make sure nothing in the closed cooling side was been run in salt. Just asking for problems if you don't. If it's a 'new' engine and manifolds, I'd definitely be going closed cooling. I SERIOUSLY regret not putting closed cooling on my new engine in 2006. Dealer talked me out of it :facepalm:....

Chris......
 

cecho

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I think I'll go closed as I'm getting new manifolds and putting in a new engine and I plan on going salt water. Should I get a new power steering cooler and put that on the closed loop system or keep that raw water cooled? Based on the state of the engine's cooling passages when I replaced the thermostat housing a few years ago I think it might be a good idea to replace the power steering cooler as well. I can imaging it's pretty corroded inside. 39 years of raw water cooling has gotta take a toll on things.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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As it's copper, and needs that cold water, I'd leave it in the raw water side, as designed.
 

alldodge

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Need to keep the PS cooler on the raw water side. If its put on the closed side there will be no cooling, it will only see your thermostat temp. Going all ne I would replace the cooler, but its a toss up. If it started to leak water would mix in the pump only. So if it ever did leak you would need pump and cooler, but would not hurt the motor.
 
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