The loss of paint or finish on the props will not cause that slip. Consider that a prop repair shop will spray paint them on a hanger but the manufacturer will paint them with a much more durable system. Those painted props are aluminum, you might try stainless, you will generally get better all around performance. Funny thing, I have found my aluminum B5 propset is better than stainless for pulling kids around all day, and the stainless just seems less forgiving. So I sold the F5 stainless and bought F6 for cruising. Now with the Stroker I still use the B5 aluminums for towing, the motor is just loafing all day long. I am currently looking for F7s and am interested to see if that works with the stroker. My point is, you should experiment with props if you can. I know these propsets are not cheap but sometimes you can get a used reconditioned set from a propshop who will let you try them for a nominal fee, 25-50 bucks or so. Just don't break them.
Hi Rick, I bought this package off a friend of my that the haul was cracked. He gave me all the paper work when he bought it new as a package. The drive says its 2.20:1 and my props say 24 pitch. I had 22 pitch that came with the drive. I took it for a test run and opened it up and I hit 5300 rpm wot. So I bought (used) 24 pitch which dropped my rpm down to 4800 rpm wot. Like I said earlier my props were matte finish but it's all worn off and now it's all shinny. Would the loss of the matte finish off the props cause the slip to be up at 26%? All my readings are off my chart plotter and GPS. Also it's a 2 barrel carb that's on my 5.0L. The boat is a bayliner 2159 trophy Alaskan bulkhead
Were telling you no,because that is the correct answer.If there was a magic answer then all the boat and car mfgs. would be using it.Why do you think the car people put so much into aerodynamics ? Because they can't do any more with the tranny and rear gear ratios.Every little 4 banger **** box gets about the same mileage if the gears etc are close,THEY can't do anything more with the internal engine to increase mileage. I will say this again it takes X amount a fuel to produce a single HP and that fuel goes into basically the same combustion chamber,they all operate under the same principal. You may be able to cruise at a lower rpm but it is still going to take the same amount of hp/fuel to meet that number.The displacement is bigger on the 5.7 so even though the rpms are less you still need the same amount of fuel to reach the needed hp. YES the engine is turning over slower but you have bigger cylinders to feed and that's when it evens out.Putting a higher pitched prop will only make the engine work [suck more fuel ]to reach your desired cruising speed. The 5.7 vs 5.0 or anything else is not going to give you any better mileage with all things being equal,even when perfectly propped to your hull.Like I said I would be working on where to put extra fuel tanks than trying to squeeze 10 more miles out of a 5 hour trip.
I will say it again it takes X amount of fuel to generate one HP and in order to cruise at say 23 mph you are going to use Y amount of hp. So not matter what engine is in there you still need Y amount of the available hp to meet that goal.It is going to use the same amount of fuel in any engine to produce Y.
I will vouche for that. I went from a 120 to a 260. It is hard to not use it. :laugh:Exactly. It's abbreviated "BSFC".......... Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. There are "things' you can do to change (slightly) the BFSC of any engine. but for most "stock" marine type gasoline engines, the BFSC doesn't change much..... 2 identical boats loaded exactly the same will take the same HP to push them at a particular speed. two different engines that happen to exhibit the same BSFC will require approx the same fuel to produce the same work.
There are a LOT of variables but you don't automatically burn more fuel just because the engine is "bigger" if the boat is loaded the same.
You burn more fuel because you have additional power and you uswe it!! No one wants to hold back and not use it!
My engine is a 1998. The props I bought used and the matte finish was worn already so I have no idea what the previous owner did to it. Now for the tach, I'll have to check that out in the spring time. When I said I hit 5300 rpm's that was with the 22 pitch props that came with the package. Now I rev out at 4800 with the 24's. Why my rev limiter (if its not working or if I got one) didn't kick in. Going to have to look into that.
I looked up the power band on the 5.0 and 5.7 Blocks
5.0L- 220 hp @ 4800 & 270 ft @ 3600
5.7L- 290 hp @ 4800 & 355 ft @ 3200
I understand what people are saying about it takes X amount of fuel to make horse power but if I'm cruising at the top of my power band (3700 rpm) wouldn't it make sense to be at 3200? with the 5.7? You can't tell me that i'll be burnig the same amount of fuel doing 400 rpms and probably going a lot faster at the same time at a lower rpm
My engine is a 1998. The props I bought used and the matte finish was worn already so I have no idea what the previous owner did to it. Now for the tach, I'll have to check that out in the spring time. When I said I hit 5300 rpm's that was with the 22 pitch props that came with the package. Now I rev out at 4800 with the 24's. Why my rev limiter (if its not working or if I got one) didn't kick in. Going to have to look into that.
I looked up the power band on the 5.0 and 5.7 Blocks
5.0L- 220 hp @ 4800 & 270 ft @ 3600
5.7L- 290 hp @ 4800 & 355 ft @ 3200
I understand what people are saying about it takes X amount of fuel to make horse power but if I'm cruising at the top of my power band (3700 rpm) wouldn't it make sense to be at 3200? with the 5.7? You can't tell me that i'll be burnig the same amount of fuel doing 400 rpms and probably going a lot faster at the same time at a lower rpm
^ Quite a difference in props,the one you ran with the 305 ,16 x 16 sure seems like it was under pitched. So unless you were propped correctly your numbers are skewed.The 305 sounds like it should of been a 17" with a smaller diameter than your 16". Who knows what speed you were cruising at with the 305 vs the 350 over the course of a season.You went up 3" in pitch with a increase of 30-40 hp in the power plant which also tells me you were under pitched to begin with.Were the props both made by the same company and were they both aluminum or SS and cupped ? Did you go from a carbed engine to EFI or are they both the same? You have a lot of variables that may affect your numbers and that will throw the scientific comparison out the window. IF by putting a larger engine in a boat or car for that matter increased fuel mileage every car and boat would have a 7.4 in it. I will say it again it takes X amount of fuel to generate one HP and in order to cruise at say 23 mph you are going to use Y amount of hp. So not matter what engine is in there you still need Y amount of the available hp to meet that goal.It is going to use the same amount of fuel in any engine to produce Y.
Kind of a summation of all of your answers tells me that there are other factors such as prop and drive ratio to really look at before deciding to swap engine size.
I don't know much about Bravo IIIs, is that a dual prop? Is that drive ratio proper? As I said, I come from Alpha one where the gear ratio is typically around 1.50 for V8s, 1.81 for V6, and 1.94 for 4cyl.
BTW 7.4s are fuel pigs, I wouldnt have one if it was given to me.
HT32B - thank you for your answer. As you could tell, I don't know anything about Bravo and was trying to educate myself as I follow this thread. Do all Bravo III use the same diameter props? Just the pitch changes?