Mercruiser 4.3L TKS 2BBL Carburetor Engine Sporadic Behavior

tkvoice

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My 2010 Mercruiser 4.3L V6 TKS 2BBL Carburetor Engine is giving me sporadic problems. My symptoms are all over the map. Things like:
1) Runs fine for 3-4 hours pulling kids tubing then starts to stall and I can't go above 1500 rpm once this happens the engine won't run for more than 1 min before stalling again so I have to limp back to shore and continually start engine.
2) Other times the engine just looses power for a very short period of time but then takes off again without stalling. It does this at idle, low speeds or wide open throttle. There is no frequency/pattern to the short dead time. When it does this at wide open throttle it really jerks the boat. It feels like slamming on brakes in car or like the boat just drove into a patch of very thick weeds as the boat slows very quickly, which is very weird because I can't get the boat to feel like that when at top speed and pulling throttle back to neutral.

Also this may seem weird but I feel I don't have as many issues after I fill the gas tank almost like all these symptoms increase when below 1/2 tank. Then again symptoms could be increasing after engine warms up?

The engine has 200 hours. I have replaced the following parts:
New CAP/Rotor/Coil/Ignition sensor/Wires/Plugs and new electric fuel pump (861155A3) .

I am leaning toward fuel flow issue or carb issue. I split open the carb to see if some object was trapped in the bowl but found nothing. I gave the carb a good cleaning when I was in there, carb cleaner sprayed through all openings freely. I would like to measure the fuel pressure entering the carb. The fuel line is 3/8" with flared nut fittings. Does anyone know of a way (or kit) that would allow me to Tee in a pressure gauge? Or even better if you know of a kit that has a site-glass flow meter that can be placed between the fuel pump and carb to see if fuel flow is cutting out.

Any other advice would be appreciated
 

alldodge

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I'm thinking maybe 2 problems, one fuel supply and one electrical

Fuel supply
Might be running out of fuel from a tank vent line. If vent line is clogged you can remove the gas cap and listen for air to be sucked in after it won't run. Can also be caused by a bad connection on the oil pressure switch or bad switch. The oil pressure switch feeds power to the pump

Electrical
This is when it shuts off real quick. Might be bad connection at key switch or kill switch or other location like 10 pin motor connector. Can also be a bad key or kill switch
 

tkvoice

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Here is a short video of the engine idling and stalling at 35 seconds into video. I have a light bulb tester on the center pin of the cap so you can see the distributor is working.

Don't think it is the ignition/key switch as I jumped the ignition switch wire so distributor had 12v no matter where the key was turned (off/on/start) and it still stalls. Not sure if I actually lost 12v as I don't have an oscilloscope or high speed volt recorder tool.

Don't think it is the fuel: I had the spark arrestor off in this video and looks like fuel is flowing just fine. In fact I got a drop or two of gas flying into the air just as the engine was stalling. (when I pumped the throttle down after engine was stalled I got a nice steady squirt of gas.
 

alldodge

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Your loosing spark and that's electrical
Use a meter on the + side of the coil and see if that goes away when it dies
 

tkvoice

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The spark eventually dies when it stalls as the engine is not cranking. I think if it was spark it would be dropping and then coming back intermittently. I have changed the ignition module, rotor, cap, coil and it still does this.
Here is another video showing spark and voltage on distributor
Does not look like I am loosing voltage when it stalls
 

tkvoice

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I have narrowed it down to a fuel problem the engine is starving. I can keep it going if I spray carb cleaning down the carb when it wants to stall:
 

tkvoice

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I think I have narrowed it down to the Oil Pressure switch p/n 87-8M0070108 that runs the electric fuel pump.
The switch that drives the fuel pump is different than the oil pressure sender for the oil pressure gauge on the panel. So even if your oil pressure gauge looks like the engine has good oil pressure a faulty oil pressure switch will starve the engine of fuel if it does not give the fuel pump; 12v to run.

In this video you can see I briefly get 12v to the fuel pump when I start the engine then the voltage drops to 0. I will buy a oil pressure switch and let the forum know if that fixed the problem.
 

nola mike

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I can't hear whether that's idling normally at any point, but in both videos you have intermittent spark well before it stalls
 

alldodge

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I think I have narrowed it down to the Oil Pressure switch p/n 87-8M0070108 that runs the electric fuel pump.
The switch that drives the fuel pump is different than the oil pressure sender for the oil pressure gauge on the panel. So even if your oil pressure gauge looks like the engine has good oil pressure a faulty oil pressure switch will starve the engine of fuel if it does not give the fuel pump; 12v to run.

In this video you can see I briefly get 12v to the fuel pump when I start the engine then the voltage drops to 0. I will buy a oil pressure switch and let the forum know if that fixed the problem.
Your correct it's the oil pressure switch
When cranking the starter supplies power to pump until it starts. Once oil pressure builds that switch sends power to pump, and yours is not do it. Great diagnostics
 

Scott06

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I think I have narrowed it down to the Oil Pressure switch p/n 87-8M0070108 that runs the electric fuel pump.
The switch that drives the fuel pump is different than the oil pressure sender for the oil pressure gauge on the panel. So even if your oil pressure gauge looks like the engine has good oil pressure a faulty oil pressure switch will starve the engine of fuel if it does not give the fuel pump; 12v to run.

In this video you can see I briefly get 12v to the fuel pump when I start the engine then the voltage drops to 0. I will buy a oil pressure switch and let the forum know if that fixed the problem.
good diagnostics, you can jumper the oil pressure switch to confirm
 

kirkll

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This has been very helpful… I’ve been pulling my hair out on the same issue and was about ready to tear into the carburetor…. I’m going to test for this myself tomorrow… thanks! Kirk
 

tkvoice

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Took the connector off the pressure switch and jumpered the 2 wires together. Now I can hear the fuel pump working and the engine does not die after 30 sec of running.

Boat runs pretty good now however Mike Nola is correct there is still an intermittent miss in the ignition spark (even when applying 12v via jumper to distributor).
So it looks like I only fixed 1 of the 2 problems.
 

Scott Danforth

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You didn't fix the issue, you just found one of the two issues
 

Scott06

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Took the connector off the pressure switch and jumpered the 2 wires together. Now I can hear the fuel pump working and the engine does not die after 30 sec of running.

Boat runs pretty good now however Mike Nola is correct there is still an intermittent miss in the ignition spark (even when applying 12v via jumper to distributor).
So it looks like I only fixed 1 of the 2 problems.
Dont leave the oil pressure switch jumped out too long as it is a safety feature

wants the history on the ignition components probably something simple like the distributor sensor or cap and rotor replacement
 
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