MerCruiser 3.0 Runs Poorly As It Warms Up

twerth

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I have a 2003 MerCruiser 3.0 in a 1991 Sea Ray 170BRLTD. It seems to run well for the first 10 or so minutes, and then progressively gets worse as it warms up. After about 20 minutes it doesn't have enough power to go much over 20 mph. It did this at the end of last season, so when I winterized I changed plugs, fuel filter and cleaned and regasketed the carb. No improvement.

My initial thought was bad gas (water in the tank?), but it seems to idle fine and always starts easily. Maybe the coil is taking a dump? I hate to start throwing parts at it, so I'm hoping someone has ideas or has seen this before. Thanks!
 

Scott06

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I have a 2003 MerCruiser 3.0 in a 1991 Sea Ray 170BRLTD. It seems to run well for the first 10 or so minutes, and then progressively gets worse as it warms up. After about 20 minutes it doesn't have enough power to go much over 20 mph. It did this at the end of last season, so when I winterized I changed plugs, fuel filter and cleaned and regasketed the carb. No improvement.

My initial thought was bad gas (water in the tank?), but it seems to idle fine and always starts easily. Maybe the coil is taking a dump? I hate to start throwing parts at it, so I'm hoping someone has ideas or has seen this before. Thanks!
Use a spark gap tester to see if you are loosing spark from when it first runs to when it runs poorly.

Is choke fully opening ?

You say you regasketed the carb - did you clean it out in an ultra sonic cleaner ?

When it runs like crap open the fuel tank fill cap- wonder if the tank vent is clogged and the pump cannot suck fuel out of the tank anymore? I think on my similar vintage Sea ray the vent is on port side just under rub rail.
Antisiphon valve on top of fuel tank - may take a look at that

if you take the fuel line off the carb and run some fuel into a container and let it sit what does it look like.
 

airshot

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Do a compression check, these 4 cylinder engines are known for warped heads if they ever run hot. Quick and cheap test to see if the engine is healthy before digging deeper.
 

dubs283

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Would think if compression is an issue OP would experience the symptoms immediately upon staring the engine, not something that gets progressively worse with run time

Never have seen a warped head on a GM 3.0/2.5.

Along with suggestions in posts #2 and #3 you should check the filter in the carburertor and inspect the cap/rotor and condition of the other distributor components, icm connections, etc

I'm guessing the engine isn't overheating?
 

airshot

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Would think if compression is an issue OP would experience the symptoms immediately upon staring the engine, not something that gets progressively worse with run time

Never have seen a warped head on a GM 3.0/2.5.

Along with suggestions in posts #2 and #3 you should check the filter in the carburertor and inspect the cap/rotor and condition of the other distributor components, icm connections, etc

I'm guessing the engine isn't overheating?
Why spend hours digging deep for an issue if the engine is not up to par ? Compression check is easy, simple and free so why not start with the simple stuff first. The local marina which has been in business for over 50 years and their mechanic which is a long time friend speak often about the head warping on 4 cylinder engines that have overheated at one time or another. Also been mentioned on this forum numerous times that this is a common issue. So if it is on this forum and on the internet, it must be true !!
 

dubs283

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why not start with the simple stuff first.

The items suggested for inspection are "the simple stuff"

I'm not saying a 3.0L can't have a warped head, anything is possible within reason. Just saying it's rare and based on OP's mentioned symptoms compression would not be close on any apt mechanic's initial troubleshooting radar
 

twerth

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Wow! A lot of replies in not a lot of time. Thanks fellas! I’ll try to take them in order.

I’ve got a gap tester, so unless I find a smoking gun I’ll take that with me next time I get it on the water. I’m not sure I can replicate the problem on the hose (no load), but then I haven’t tried.

Choke is where my head went. If it’s not opening properly as the engine warms up, that seems like a likely culprit. Too bad I didn’t think of it at the time.

I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I did completely disassemble and blow through all the ports. I’ve spent the last 30 or so years refurbishing old motorcycles, so I’ve had a little experience with dirty carbs.

I actually tried opening the fuel cap, but that didn’t help. I’ll check the vent anyway though. I’ve heard wasps like to build nests in those.

I think I can also drain fuel from the filter housing. I may give that a try to see if I find any water.

TKS diode, I’ll have to look that up. What does it do?

Compression check was actually on my to do list. I bought the boat last fall and wanted to do that just to confirm what shape it’s in. Looks like I’ll need to move that up on the list.

The filter in the carb is clean, and I gave the cap and rotor a visual inspection last fall when I winterized. I think they’re ok, but that’s not always obvious. I’ll look a little closer.

Engine temperature is good according to the gauge.

I’ve got a lot of things to look at. Unfortunately, the boat's currently in the garage on jack stands while I work on the trailer brakes. It might be a couple of weeks before I can pull it outside and put it on the hose, but I’ll circle back and let you know what I find.

Thanks again guys!
 

Scott06

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I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I did completely disassemble and blow through all the ports. I’ve spent the last 30 or so years refurbishing old motorcycles, so I’ve had a little experience with dirty carbs.


TKS diode, I’ll have to look that up. What does it do?

Sounds like you know how to rebuild a carb, then. Only mentioned it because a lot of times on here you get a newbie who doesn't know how to clean a carb, buys a cheap kit of amazon and wonders why it still doesn't work...

I also play around with old stuff too ultrasonic was a game changer for me worth the $100 at harbor freight

The TKS is is on what I think is a newer engine than yours- my 2003 4.3 was a mercarb not TKS. merc came out with a modification called Turn Key Start- where and enrichment solenoid replaces the choke. Used a temp sensor to power a valve to let more fuel in at warm up. Since few people know how to set a choke and start a carbed vehicle in theory turn the key and it starts sorta like fuel injection. Very much debatable if it is an improvement unless you are in marketing...

if you have a choke then you do not have a TKS carb nor the diode that can cause issues.

I had I think the same boat as you for years - 1995 thru 2016. Had the choke hang closed but it fouled the plugs to where it would not run, cleaned them fouled again... black black plugs -went and and bought a needle and seat the old mechanic who I bought parts off said check the choke... could have fixed with without opening the carb but id did run better.

Was a fun little boat and easy on the gas. When my kids got bigger we bought a 21 ft Sea Ray. Love the new boat but I do miss putting $50-60 in the tank going all weekend and still having a 1/4 tank left
 

airshot

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Years back, my 3.0 had similar issues as the poster described. Posting the info on a couple different forums and a talk with my mechanic, all agreed the first step should be a compression test .. Sure enough 2-3 was low on compression. Pulled the head and sent it to the mechanic. In the mean time went thru the carb while I waited. Not saying this is the poster's issues, from his description it could be a number of things right down to water in the fuel. I always start with the quick and easy tests to eliminate stuff before digging deeper.
 

twerth

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Yup, choke, so no TKS. Fingers are crossed that this is a choke problem, but a compression test is on the list.

Regarding that, can I unplug the coil wire while I crank, or will that damage ignition components? I don't want it to fire while I'm testing, so if there's a better way, I'd be interested to hear it.
 

Scott06

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Yup, choke, so no TKS. Fingers are crossed that this is a choke problem, but a compression test is on the list.

Regarding that, can I unplug the coil wire while I crank, or will that damage ignition components? I don't want it to fire while I'm testing, so if there's a better way, I'd be interested to hear it.
yes take the coil wire and make sure it is grounded to discharge the spark while cranking
 

twerth

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It's been a couple of weeks, and I think I've made some progress. Here's what I've done:

Verified that the choke is working properly. It is, maybe opening a bit quicker than it should, but I'll deal with that once the big issues are solved.

I drained the gas out of the fuel filter housing on the bottom of the pump. It's spring loaded, in an awkward place, and I have to stand on my head to get to it, so I spilled most of it. But what I was able to capture didn't show signs of water.

I did a compression test. All cylinders were between 160 and 170psig, well within 10% of each other. I brain farted and didn't have the throttle open when I ran the test, so actual pressures may be a little higher.

Sprayed carb cleaner down its throat while it was running. I was never able to get it to run on cleaner alone, but it did seem to clear up a little.

Replaced the distributor cap/rotor and the coil. The cap and rotor showed signs of extended use, but nothing outrageous. I had changed the plugs last fall, and they all look good.

So, the wife and I took it to the lake over the weekend and....no improvement. It ran fine for a few minutes and then turned to crap. It had a full tank of gas, and I think most of that (3/4 tank?) was in it when I bought the boat last fall. It didn't act like it wanted to strand me (starts easily and idles fine), so I decided to try to run most of the gas out of it and then drain the rest when we got home.

We putted around for about half an hour, and it started to run better and better. It never completely cleaned up, but I was able to get ~33 mph at ~4300 rpm at WFO. I backed off to miss some rough water, and then it ran crumby again. It eventually cleaning up and was able to get back up to speed. By the end of the day, it would run fairly well and come back up to speed from an idle without much trouble. I was getting some popping through the carb (lean condition?) at part throttle, and it was never completely smooth at full throttle, but it was a huge improvement.

Back at home, I siphoned the remaining ~5 gallons out of the tank. I found no evidence of water, but the gas didn't smell good and was quite a bit darker that fresh fuel. I refilled with 91 octane ethanol free, and now I'm just waiting for the weekend so I can try it again. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again for all the input and assistance!
 

Scott06

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It's been a couple of weeks, and I think I've made some progress. Here's what I've done:

Verified that the choke is working properly. It is, maybe opening a bit quicker than it should, but I'll deal with that once the big issues are solved.

I drained the gas out of the fuel filter housing on the bottom of the pump. It's spring loaded, in an awkward place, and I have to stand on my head to get to it, so I spilled most of it. But what I was able to capture didn't show signs of water.

I did a compression test. All cylinders were between 160 and 170psig, well within 10% of each other. I brain farted and didn't have the throttle open when I ran the test, so actual pressures may be a little higher.

Sprayed carb cleaner down its throat while it was running. I was never able to get it to run on cleaner alone, but it did seem to clear up a little.

Replaced the distributor cap/rotor and the coil. The cap and rotor showed signs of extended use, but nothing outrageous. I had changed the plugs last fall, and they all look good.

So, the wife and I took it to the lake over the weekend and....no improvement. It ran fine for a few minutes and then turned to crap. It had a full tank of gas, and I think most of that (3/4 tank?) was in it when I bought the boat last fall. It didn't act like it wanted to strand me (starts easily and idles fine), so I decided to try to run most of the gas out of it and then drain the rest when we got home.

We putted around for about half an hour, and it started to run better and better. It never completely cleaned up, but I was able to get ~33 mph at ~4300 rpm at WFO. I backed off to miss some rough water, and then it ran crumby again. It eventually cleaning up and was able to get back up to speed. By the end of the day, it would run fairly well and come back up to speed from an idle without much trouble. I was getting some popping through the carb (lean condition?) at part throttle, and it was never completely smooth at full throttle, but it was a huge improvement.

Back at home, I siphoned the remaining ~5 gallons out of the tank. I found no evidence of water, but the gas didn't smell good and was quite a bit darker that fresh fuel. I refilled with 91 octane ethanol free, and now I'm just waiting for the weekend so I can try it again. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again for all the input and assistance!
Have you pulled the siphon tube from the gas tank to see if there is a screen in it? was thinking either this , the antiphon valve may be restricting fuel flow.

Cant recall if you checked spark strength after it messes up or tried running it on a sperate 5 gal tank .

In the end might need a carb rebuild
 

twerth

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Have you pulled the siphon tube from the gas tank to see if there is a screen in it? was thinking either this , the antiphon valve may be restricting fuel flow.

Cant recall if you checked spark strength after it messes up or tried running it on a sperate 5 gal tank .

In the end might need a carb rebuild
I haven't tried any of these. I'll check the siphon tube this week before I go out again. I actually took a spark tester with me to the lake last weekend but didn't use it. I'll keep it with me in case the problem persists. I'm not sure how I'd hook a spare tank up. I suppose unhook the hose connection at the fuel pump inlet? That would be a pain on the water since the pump is at the bottom of the engine, but probably doable.

Thanks!
 

Scott06

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I haven't tried any of these. I'll check the siphon tube this week before I go out again. I actually took a spark tester with me to the lake last weekend but didn't use it. I'll keep it with me in case the problem persists. I'm not sure how I'd hook a spare tank up. I suppose unhook the hose connection at the fuel pump inlet? That would be a pain on the water since the pump is at the bottom of the engine, but probably doable.

Thanks!
Yes hook it to fuel pump inlet. So this one land then take it out. If problem goes away then you have narrowed down to tank to pump
 

twerth

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This thread is getting long, so a quick recap:
1991 Sea Ray 170BRLTD with a Mercruiser 3.0, replaced in 2003. I bought it last fall. It runs great for the first 5 – 10 minutes off the trailer but then starts to bog and pop through the carb intermittently. It seems to be worst at WOT and eventually will not get over 3000 rpm. However, it always starts easily and idles fine. I can also confirm that it doesn’t overheat. My temperature gauge is solid at 150 deg.F.

Here’s what I’ve tried up to my last post:
When I winterized last fall, I changed the oil, replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and cleaned/regasketed the carb.
This spring I’ve taken the carb back apart and verified everything is still clean and correct. I’ve replaced the distributor cap, rotor and coil (all appeared to be fine). Confirmed that the choke is working properly. Drained the gas out of the fuel filter (no signs of water). Compression test, all good. Drained the fuel tank. I didn’t find any water, but the old fuel was a little darker than what I consider normal and didn’t smell fresh. Refilled with 91 octane, ethanol free. Also, on the suggestion of a forum member, I sprayed carb cleaner down the carb while running for a couple of minutes.

With all this there was maybe a slight improvement, but the bogging and periodic backfiring was still there. So, here’s what I’ve done over the last couple of weeks:

While it was acting up on the water, I checked the spark at the plugs using a tool with an adjustable gap. The spark seemed to be fine and similar to what I’ve seen in my driveway on the muffs.

While I was testing the spark, I thought I heard an air leak at or around the fuel pump. So when I got it home I removed the fuel pump, the anti-siphon valve and the fuel pick-up tube. The tube and anti-siphon valve were fine, but the threads galled when I took them apart, so I had to replace both ($#@%!). I also replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the pump.

I took the pump apart, and it was disgusting inside! All gummy and dirty, I’m blaming it on ethanol. I cleaned it up as well as I could, but the check valves were still suspect. I couldn’t disassemble those, and the elastomers seemed stiff. I put it back together, reinstalled and ordered a new one.

While running it on the hose, I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb and where the manifold attaches to the cylinder head. While spraying along the top of the manifold at the head, it would noticeably affect engine speed. So, I removed the manifold and inspected the gasket. It looked fine with no signs of leaks or damage, and the mating surfaces of the manifold and head looked good as well. No dings, scratches or visible cracks. I bought new gaskets (destroyed the exhaust elbow gasket during disassembly) and put it back together. I tested again, and the issue remains (engine speed drops slightly when I hit it with carb cleaner).

We took it to the lake anyway to see if anything I’d done helped. There was improvement although the underlying problem remains. But it ran well enough at lower speeds that I was able to teach my son to water ski. We’re getting some enjoyment out of this tub regardless of how it runs!

2024-06-16 12.48.02.jpg

Since that outing, I received and installed the new fuel pump. The wife and I went back out this weekend, and it still runs the same. I checked the manifold gasket with carb cleaner while it was on the water and acting up, and it seems to be maybe a little worse than on the hose, but not significantly. This is my prime suspect, so any suggestions are welcome. I installed the gasket dry, so maybe some sealer might help?

I’m also wondering if there’s something in the carb that isn’t quite right. Float maybe?

I appreciate any input or ideas. I’m still groping around. Thanks!
 

Scott06

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This thread is getting long, so a quick recap:
1991 Sea Ray 170BRLTD with a Mercruiser 3.0, replaced in 2003. I bought it last fall. It runs great for the first 5 – 10 minutes off the trailer but then starts to bog and pop through the carb intermittently. It seems to be worst at WOT and eventually will not get over 3000 rpm. However, it always starts easily and idles fine. I can also confirm that it doesn’t overheat. My temperature gauge is solid at 150 deg.F.

Here’s what I’ve tried up to my last post:
When I winterized last fall, I changed the oil, replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and cleaned/regasketed the carb.
This spring I’ve taken the carb back apart and verified everything is still clean and correct. I’ve replaced the distributor cap, rotor and coil (all appeared to be fine). Confirmed that the choke is working properly. Drained the gas out of the fuel filter (no signs of water). Compression test, all good. Drained the fuel tank. I didn’t find any water, but the old fuel was a little darker than what I consider normal and didn’t smell fresh. Refilled with 91 octane, ethanol free. Also, on the suggestion of a forum member, I sprayed carb cleaner down the carb while running for a couple of minutes.

With all this there was maybe a slight improvement, but the bogging and periodic backfiring was still there. So, here’s what I’ve done over the last couple of weeks:

While it was acting up on the water, I checked the spark at the plugs using a tool with an adjustable gap. The spark seemed to be fine and similar to what I’ve seen in my driveway on the muffs.

While I was testing the spark, I thought I heard an air leak at or around the fuel pump. So when I got it home I removed the fuel pump, the anti-siphon valve and the fuel pick-up tube. The tube and anti-siphon valve were fine, but the threads galled when I took them apart, so I had to replace both ($#@%!). I also replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the pump.

I took the pump apart, and it was disgusting inside! All gummy and dirty, I’m blaming it on ethanol. I cleaned it up as well as I could, but the check valves were still suspect. I couldn’t disassemble those, and the elastomers seemed stiff. I put it back together, reinstalled and ordered a new one.

While running it on the hose, I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb and where the manifold attaches to the cylinder head. While spraying along the top of the manifold at the head, it would noticeably affect engine speed. So, I removed the manifold and inspected the gasket. It looked fine with no signs of leaks or damage, and the mating surfaces of the manifold and head looked good as well. No dings, scratches or visible cracks. I bought new gaskets (destroyed the exhaust elbow gasket during disassembly) and put it back together. I tested again, and the issue remains (engine speed drops slightly when I hit it with carb cleaner).

We took it to the lake anyway to see if anything I’d done helped. There was improvement although the underlying problem remains. But it ran well enough at lower speeds that I was able to teach my son to water ski. We’re getting some enjoyment out of this tub regardless of how it runs!

View attachment 399697

Since that outing, I received and installed the new fuel pump. The wife and I went back out this weekend, and it still runs the same. I checked the manifold gasket with carb cleaner while it was on the water and acting up, and it seems to be maybe a little worse than on the hose, but not significantly. This is my prime suspect, so any suggestions are welcome. I installed the gasket dry, so maybe some sealer might help?

I’m also wondering if there’s something in the carb that isn’t quite right. Float maybe?

I appreciate any input or ideas. I’m still groping around. Thanks!
Had the same boat for many years (20) had a lot of fun on it.

Is the power valve and the actuator for it operating? Power valve is located in bottom of fuel bowl between two main jets did it move freely and was it taken out and made sure it is clean. The power valve is actuated by the spring and piston that comes down from carb bowl top it should operate freely. At high vacuum and idle the rod is pulled up against the spring closing the power valve. as you get into throttle vacuum drops and the rod depresses the power valve to richen the fuel mixture for WOT.

Were the jets removed when you cleaned the carb? I have had really much better results carb rebuilding since I started using a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner ($100) to soak the body and parts.

When it starts to bog down take of the fuel cap - are you pulling a vacuum on the tank? also have you checked the timing especially when this occurs. Would take a timing light to see if spark is missing when this occurs and use a spark gap tester to see if strength of spark is ok when this happens.

What do spark plugs look like in terms of mixture and soot amount and color
 

twerth

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Had the same boat for many years (20) had a lot of fun on it.

Is the power valve and the actuator for it operating? Power valve is located in bottom of fuel bowl between two main jets did it move freely and was it taken out and made sure it is clean. The power valve is actuated by the spring and piston that comes down from carb bowl top it should operate freely. At high vacuum and idle the rod is pulled up against the spring closing the power valve. as you get into throttle vacuum drops and the rod depresses the power valve to richen the fuel mixture for WOT.

Were the jets removed when you cleaned the carb? I have had really much better results carb rebuilding since I started using a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner ($100) to soak the body and parts.

When it starts to bog down take of the fuel cap - are you pulling a vacuum on the tank? also have you checked the timing especially when this occurs. Would take a timing light to see if spark is missing when this occurs and use a spark gap tester to see if strength of spark is ok when this happens.

What do spark plugs look like in terms of mixture and soot amount and color
Thanks Scott.

The jets were removed and cleaned, and the carb was really pretty clean inside. Unfortunately, I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, but it may be worth the investment. I've had plenty of opportunities to use one over the years.

The power valve might be worth taking another look at. If I recall, it's peened in place and is a bit of a bugger to get out. I'm also wondering about my float. It's set correctly, but maybe it starts to sink due to temperature or vibration? It's the foam type, so I think that would be unusual, but I'm running out of ideas.

The plugs look good. Almost no soot of any color on the electrode, maybe just a little black around the outside edge. They also all look more or less identical.

Opening the gas cap was just about the first thing I tried. There was no vacuum, and it didn't help.

I have not checked the timing. Based on the minimal reading I've done, it sounded like setting timing is a pretty involved process, so I didn't mess with it. I also haven't seen any specs. I do have a timing light, so maybe I should at least find out where it's currently set. I'll put that on the list.

Thanks again!
 

Scott06

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Thanks Scott.

The jets were removed and cleaned, and the carb was really pretty clean inside. Unfortunately, I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, but it may be worth the investment. I've had plenty of opportunities to use one over the years.

The power valve might be worth taking another look at. If I recall, it's peened in place and is a bit of a bugger to get out. I'm also wondering about my float. It's set correctly, but maybe it starts to sink due to temperature or vibration? It's the foam type, so I think that would be unusual, but I'm running out of ideas.

The plugs look good. Almost no soot of any color on the electrode, maybe just a little black around the outside edge. They also all look more or less identical.

Opening the gas cap was just about the first thing I tried. There was no vacuum, and it didn't help.

I have not checked the timing. Based on the minimal reading I've done, it sounded like setting timing is a pretty involved process, so I didn't mess with it. I also haven't seen any specs. I do have a timing light, so maybe I should at least find out where it's currently set. I'll put that on the list.

Thanks again!
The power valve itself unscrews from the floor of the bowl you may need to cut a slit in a bigger flat blade. If you took it out and cleaned behind it just make sure the pin that sticks up moves freely.

the actuator in the bowl top is peened in there. No need to remove just make sure it moves freely.

Not sure what ignition set up you have. My 91 had the distributor less igniton which has separate coil packs on starboard back side of engine, and what looks like a sawed off distributor base as the trigger. The more common and more durable Delco Est is likely what you have. YEs on this you need to put in in base mode to set timing which is not hard. If you have a light check to see where timing is without putting it in base mode should be around 12-15 degrees at idle and go up to about 24-26 total at 2800 rpm or so.

Also get a spark gap tester to see how much gap it can jump . this is a quick test for spark strength. should jump 3/8 or more and be a nice blue spark. If weak or orange maybe issue with ignition system. Take a look at spark gap test when it is running good and then when it is missing see if there is a diff
 
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