Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

cainentm

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Ok, so here's another "water-in-my-oil" story. Started the boat up in the draveway, let it run for about 10 minutes, no issues. Took it to the lake, ran a few hours, all seemed good. Took on a little water from another boats wake while we were sitting still (didn' think anything of it at the time). A little while later, I happened to think about the water again, so I flipped on the bilge pump switch and noticed grey-ish colored water shooting out the side of the boat! Turned it off, stopped the engine, pulled the cover and immediately saw beige, milky oil on top of the engine. Looks like it spewed out of the vent tube on top of the valve cover and shot into the side of the flame arrestor, before dripping/running down into the hull beneath the engine. Pulled the dipstick and the same milky stuff was about 3/4 of the way up the dipstick.

I can't say if the water that came into the boat had anything to do with the water getting into the oil, but at least it drove me to turn on the bilge. If I hadn't, I might have run it 'til it died. The engine never gave any sign of problems - no noise, no poor operation, nothing.

The next day, I attempted to drain the "oil" from the oil drain tube that comes directly out of the bottom of the oil pan. That is a slow process, at best, as the gunk is quite thick.

What might be the best place to start? I was told by a mechanic that adding a little diesel fuel or kerosene directly into the oil fill hole would help to break down the gunk so that it could be drained. He said to add some diesel fuel, crank the engine and let it run for about 15 seconds then shut it down and let it cool down. He also said to do this without having water feeding into the engine, to keep from adding more water to the oil. Not sure if this is a wise thing. If not, what is the alternative?

Any input on things I should look for, order of operations, etc would be greatly appreciated. I am now on day three since I discovered this issue, and the thought of water in the engine (and the rust that it produces) has me very nervous.

Thanks,
Mike
 

thumpar

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

You need to pressurize the water side and listen to see where it is getting the oil from. How was it winterized?
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

That was my next question, most times a cracked block will let the milkshake come out the vent tubes or dipstick.
 

cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Winterizing was limited to disconnecting both water drain tubes (exhaust and block) and draining the water. To be honest, that is not any different than what I've done for several years (like 8 or 9). Relatively speaking it doesn't get too cold in the Carolinas. Seems easy enough to run a compression test, but I am trying to figure out the best way to get all that crud out of the engine...
 

cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Thumpar, how would I go about doing as you suggested? A boat mechanic I am not. Thanks to all.
 
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72Cutter

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

I`m not a (licensed) mechanic either , but I would start by taking the out drive off so that when i ran it with kerosene I would not ruin the impeller ( I personally have ran kerosene in a 4 cly cavalier and a 300 6 cly. Ford just to get that milky gunk out "and it did it" ) You should be able to run it on straight kerosene for a few minutes at a time to clean it....On the other hand ,you definitely have an issue that cleaning isn't going to cure...Drain ALL the oil and fill to full oil level , then run it...Kerosene is very thin oil...Just don't rev it up.... you will know that the kerosene going through the engine when the lifters start to clatter a little...I personally think it will not hurt the engine...
 

cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

'Cutter,
That's basically what the mechanic told me - about running the kerosene through it to get the crud out. You are correct that there is some underlying issue that I also have to resolve. I'm just not exactly sure where to start. Seems like a compression check might be the first thing to check. Beyond that, I would definitely need some guidance.
 

thumpar

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Isolate the cooling system and pressure check it would be the first. You will have to look at the cooling diagram to figure out which hoses and such to clamp or block off. A compression check most likely won't show anything.
 

dubs283

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

I`m not a (licensed) mechanic either , but I would start by taking the out drive off so that when i ran it with kerosene I would not ruin the impeller ( I personally have ran kerosene in a 4 cly cavalier and a 300 6 cly. Ford just to get that milky gunk out "and it did it" ) You should be able to run it on straight kerosene for a few minutes at a time to clean it....On the other hand ,you definitely have an issue that cleaning isn't going to cure...Drain ALL the oil and fill to full oil level , then run it...Kerosene is very thin oil...Just don't rev it up.... you will know that the kerosene going through the engine when the lifters start to clatter a little...I personally think it will not hurt the engine...

running kerosene in the engine's crancase will not harm the drive impeller at all, but i would definitely run the engine with water connected to muffs, not that it really matters - the op most likely has a cracked block and needs a new engine, the only thing i have seen cause that much milky oil mess is a cracked block
 

cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Perhaps this is just my wallet trying to keep things optimistic here, but, given the fact that the water drain hoses were disconnected (and drained) throughout the winter, plus the existence of freeze plugs, wouldn't that maybe (hopefully) lower the likelihood that it is a cracked block? I know that it appears that a lot of water got in, but we had been boating for probably around 3 hours before I noticed the oil. I would think that this may have permitted ample time for a good deal of water to get pulled in from wherever. Also, it doesn't seem like flushing with kerosene, with the water supply hooked up, would be effective. Wouldn't that just permit more water to get in?
 
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Fishermark

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Perhaps this is just my wallet trying to keep things optimistic ... the existence of freeze plugs,

"Freeze plugs" are simply core or casting plugs. Have nothing to do with keeping an engine from cracking due to freezing.


Also, it doesn't seem like flushing with kerosene, with the water supply hooked up, would be effective. Wouldn't that just permit more water to get in?

Remove the outdrive and run the engine with the kerosine / diesel fuel. That would be fine for a short run.

You will need to find where the water is coming in and fix it. Like has been mentioned, blocking the cooling passages / hoses and pressuring the system is going to be the only real way to find the source of the water.
 

thumpar

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

You have a problem. Maybe it is not a cracked block but it is something. Hoping and just chatting about are not going to fix it. You need to test things to find the problem. These kinds of things don't fix themselves.
 

Bondo

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

I`m not a (licensed) mechanic either , but I would start by taking the out drive off so that when i ran it with kerosene I would not ruin the impeller ( I personally have ran kerosene in a 4 cly cavalier and a 300 6 cly. Ford just to get that milky gunk out "and it did it" ) You should be able to run it on straight kerosene for a few minutes at a time to clean it....On the other hand ,you definitely have an issue that cleaning isn't going to cure...Drain ALL the oil and fill to full oil level , then run it...Kerosene is very thin oil...Just don't rev it up.... you will know that the kerosene going through the engine when the lifters start to clatter a little...I personally think it will not hurt the engine...
'Cutter,
That's basically what the mechanic told me - about running the kerosene through it to get the crud out. You are correct that there is some underlying issue that I also have to resolve. I'm just not exactly sure where to start. Seems like a compression check might be the first thing to check. Beyond that, I would definitely need some guidance.

Ayuh,.... You need a Different Mechanic,... There's No reason to run yer motor on kerosene,....

That'll eat the bearin's out of it in No time,...

Kerosene is more solvent, than oil,...

Just runnin' the motor with fresh oil will clean it up, Without further damage,....

If not for the Cracked block, just one oil change is all that ya need,...
Without more water enterin', you can run it up to temp for a few hours, 'n any remainin' water will simply steam off,....

Do the pressure test like thumpar says on a drained block to find the Crack,...
Then go shoppin' for a new Long Block,...

When ya drained it last fall,...
Did ya poke a screw or nail into the drain holes to knock the crud outa the way, so it could really Drain, Dry,..??
 
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cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Thumpar, no doubt, I understand that there is definitely a problem. But working 7:30 to 5 doesn't allow any mechanic'n during the day and last night I had to spend a little time being dad and hubby (every other night since Sunday has been spent in the boat). That's why I post a little bit while I'm home at lunch. Sorry, I can't give up hope til the issue is confirmed. And chatting is done now to try to educate myself on which way to start. Again, I am NOT a boat mechanic so this is all new to me. I don't want to just start tearin' into stuff with no sense of direction. That's where I rely on the consensus voice. There are well-educated and experienced folks on this board - and even the recommendations coming from those "expert" folks can be widely varied (ex: some say kerosene...some say NO!). I am finding it not too easy to just read a post and run out to the boat. Ya know what I mean?

Bondo, thanks for the advise. No I did not poke any holes - the mercruiser has two drain hoses with quick connects on one end. You just disconnect the hose from the (blocking) bracket and lower them into the well, below the engine. When you do, the water empties out of the block and exhaust manifold. The hose ID is like 3/8" or bigger so the water pours out pretty good - it's pretty easy to tell that they are not blocked. As for the pressure test, I'll have to try to research to find out how this is done - what needs to be blocked and what tools are needed to do the test. Again, this is ALL new to me. I assume that this test is done by pressurizing with air...or is it water? And where do you apply the pressure - just into one of the hoses? I'm such an amateur...

Thanks to all...
 

Bondo

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Thumpar, no doubt, I understand that there is definitely a problem. But working 7:30 to 5 doesn't allow any mechanic'n during the day and last night I had to spend a little time being dad and hubby (every other night since Sunday has been spent in the boat). That's why I post a little bit while I'm home at lunch. Sorry, I can't give up hope til the issue is confirmed. And chatting is done now to try to educate myself on which way to start. Again, I am NOT a boat mechanic so this is all new to me. I don't want to just start tearin' into stuff with no sense of direction. That's where I rely on the consensus voice. There are well-educated and experienced folks on this board - and even the recommendations coming from those "expert" folks can be widely varied (ex: some say kerosene...some say NO!). I am finding it not too easy to just read a post and run out to the boat. Ya know what I mean?

Bondo, thanks for the advise. No I did not poke any holes - the mercruiser has two drain hoses with quick connects on one end. You just disconnect the hose from the (blocking) bracket and lower them into the well, below the engine. When you do, the water empties out of the block and exhaust manifold. The hose ID is like 3/8" or bigger so the water pours out pretty good - it's pretty easy to tell that they are not blocked. As for the pressure test, I'll have to try to research to find out how this is done - what needs to be blocked and what tools are needed to do the test. Again, this is ALL new to me. I assume that this test is done by pressurizing with air...or is it water? And where do you apply the pressure - just into one of the hoses? I'm such an amateur...

Thanks to all...

Ayuh,.... If nothin' was blocked, ya wouldn't have a cracked block,...

Those Merc easy systems Sucks,... Because ya Can't tell what drained, 'n what didn't,...

I use plain ole brass pipe plugs, screwed directly into the block, 'n manifold,...
When I drain it, I KNOW it's dry,...

Yer motor only has 3 drain points, the block drain(1/4" pipe plug),...
The manifold( again, probably 1/4", or possibly 1/8")
'n pull the Big hose off the circulatin' water pump,...
At that point, yer motor is winter Safe,...

If ya have P/S, the Cooler needs drainin', but it's rare on a 3.0l,.....

To pressure test,... Drain the motor,....
Plumb is 'bout 15 psi of air, into the hose comin' from the transom, to the t-stat housin',...
Cap off/ plug the hose goin' from the t-stat housin' to the exhaust manifold,...
That should pressurize the block, only,...
 

thumpar

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

I have seen clamp specifically for auto type cooling hoses. They should work so that you don't have to try to plug anything. I have never used them but see them now and then.
 

cainentm

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Thanks for the tip. I'll give a look around and see what I can come up with. So, assuming that this does turn out to be a cracked block, is the typical approach to buy a new block and rebuild the whole thing (and what would the typical price be on a block) or is it more typical to look around for a new (crate or used) engine (and what does that cost look like)? Trying to figure out how long my boat might be sitting in the driveway this summer... :facepalm:
 

Fishermark

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5,627
Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

There is no "typical" way of dealing with a busted block. Some do everything themselves, while others hire it out. If you feel like taking a gamble, you can shop around for a used engine. If money it not a big concern, you can buy a new crate engine. It really depends upon your level of comfort and how much you want to spend. Do a search online to compare prices for new and used. Ask around about a good machine shop in your area. At least you will have some good info to make an informed decision.
 

Fastatv

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Sep 28, 2013
Messages
258
Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

Ok, so here's another "water-in-my-oil" story. Started the boat up in the draveway, let it run for about 10 minutes, no issues. Took it to the lake, ran a few hours, all seemed good. Took on a little water from another boats wake while we were sitting still (didn' think anything of it at the time). A little while later, I happened to think about the water again, so I flipped on the bilge pump switch and noticed grey-ish colored water shooting out the side of the boat! Turned it off, stopped the engine, pulled the cover and immediately saw beige, milky oil on top of the engine. Looks like it spewed out of the vent tube on top of the valve cover and shot into the side of the flame arrestor, before dripping/running down into the hull beneath the engine. Pulled the dipstick and the same milky stuff was about 3/4 of the way up the dipstick.

I can't say if the water that came into the boat had anything to do with the water getting into the oil, but at least it drove me to turn on the bilge. If I hadn't, I might have run it 'til it died. The engine never gave any sign of problems - no noise, no poor operation, nothing.

The next day, I attempted to drain the "oil" from the oil drain tube that comes directly out of the bottom of the oil pan. That is a slow process, at best, as the gunk is quite thick.

What might be the best place to start? I was told by a mechanic that adding a little diesel fuel or kerosene directly into the oil fill hole would help to break down the gunk so that it could be drained. He said to add some diesel fuel, crank the engine and let it run for about 15 seconds then shut it down and let it cool down. He also said to do this without having water feeding into the engine, to keep from adding more water to the oil. Not sure if this is a wise thing. If not, what is the alternative?

Any input on things I should look for, order of operations, etc would be greatly appreciated. I am now on day three since I discovered this issue, and the thought of water in the engine (and the rust that it produces) has me very nervous.

Thanks,
Mike
Mike, you will get many opinions here, and although they vary, they are usually good opinions. I had water in my 3.0 as well, some of the milky water/oil combination as you have. I recommend:
- Drain the oil pan, remove what oil you can.
- Add fresh, cheap oil until the level is correct,
- Warm the engine up to operating temp on muffs, idle only......you cannot run the engine at all without good water flow to muffs as it
will ruin the lower unit impeller otherwise.
- Shut engine down, raise the boat bow up as high as possible, place oil catch pan under the stern drain hole, change oil filter, drain
engine oil at the oil pan....into the bilge....most will flow out via the stern drain hole into oil catch pan.
- Install fresh oil, Start again on muffs, run back up to temp......shut off, check oil level, check for water in oil.
As I mentioned, I had some milky oil in my 3.0 last year, no clue where it came from ( lots of condensation I'm guessing, from not running the engine up to temps enough, short trips, starts and stops)...after I accomplished the above mentioned process, no more milky oil. Hope this helps in some way. Rick
 

81 Checkmate

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Re: Mercruiser 3.0 Milkshake Machine...aka, water in the oil

I have a 3.0 also with the quick drain hoses....but i disconect them at the block and manifold and poke a nail in the hole. Foresure no blockage.... It has the same fittings that are on the end where it plugs into the hose holding block.

Wish you luck with your findings!
 
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