Mercruiser 3.0 = Chevy 181 CID = Small Block Chevy Valve Train? 1:65 Rockers?

Gandalfe

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I have a 3.0L Mercruiser L698012 which I will be pairing with a GENII 1:65 out drive and a 21" prop. I'm wondering about using Chevy small block 1:65 rockers to get a bit more our of the little engine. In order to use the rockers I'll need to install guide plates. Does anyone know if stock SB Chevy plates will fit?
 

Scott Danforth

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welcome aboard.

you need a gear ratio closer to 2:1 with the 4 bangers unless the boat is super small and light. the 1.6:1 drives are generally V6 and 5.0 SBC's

you wont get much more out of the motor than 160hp at the flywheel (and that is with a better induction system and not playing with valve train). the cylinder head sucks for flow

no, SBC parts do not fit (other than bore diameter) the 3.0 industrial engine is a mexico only industrial engine loosly based on the 153 in-line from 1962. in-line 196/230/250/292 parts may fit, however would have to be confirmed as the 3.0 became its own variation back in 1990
 

Bt Doctur

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hundreds of eons ago we used gm 6 cylinder rockers arms to give a slight boost to the v8`s ,acted like you increased cam performance. 1.50 to 1.60 ratio. opened the valves a bit more
 

Bondo

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I have a 3.0L Mercruiser L698012 which I will be pairing with a GENII 1:65 out drive and a 21" prop. I'm wondering about using Chevy small block 1:65 rockers to get a bit more our of the little engine. In order to use the rockers I'll need to install guide plates. Does anyone know if stock SB Chevy plates will fit?
Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... To wake up a 3.0l, ya put the right gear ratio drive, 'n as small a prop as it takes to spin it to 4800 rpms,......

Ya need a 1.98:1 drive, 'n probably a smaller prop,.....
That motor, on that drive, with that prop, will no doubt hole a piston in short order, from luggin' the 'ell outa the motor,.....
 

Scott06

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... To wake up a 3.0l, ya put the right gear ratio drive, 'n as small a prop as it takes to spin it to 4800 rpms,......

Ya need a 1.98:1 drive, 'n probably a smaller prop,.....
That motor, on that drive, with that prop, will no doubt hole a piston in short order, from luggin' the 'ell outa the motor,.....
what he said … 3.0 is great for what it is - reliable economic boating. What it isn‘t is powerful or fast. need correct gear outdrive and prop.
 

mickyryan

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as a lover of the 3.0 it is what it is mercury did damn good with it but that's it enjoy the reliability of it and prop it correctly including correct drive and she will never leave ya stranded.
 

achris

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Those 3 litre engines are great for 140hp, borderline at 160hp, and ticking time-bombs beyond that. When Merc were putting EFI/MPI on them, they were able to get them up to 180hp, but the bottom end didn't last very long. That's why even with MPI they are still only tuned to make 135hp.

As already mentioned, get the right drive ratio (1.94:1), the right prop to make 4800rpm and enjoy what you have. If you really need more power, then get a V6... (or V8)...

Chris...........
 
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Scott Danforth

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remember, the 3.0 was designed as a fork truck motor and a generator motor as a derivative from the 153 cubic inch 4-cyliner and just so happened to make a cheap boat motor
 

mickyryan

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i got a theory about the gear ratios , they keep the water pump from spinning too fast and causing erosion from water velocity in the small engines i could be wrong but since you can reprop just about any gear ratio change out . once water is moving too fast through passages it actually can t cool and can cause erosion because of velocity, i could also be over thinking it but i work with hydraulics and water velocity alot and i wonder about this all the time.
 

achris

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i got a theory about the gear ratios , they keep the water pump from spinning too fast and causing erosion from water velocity in the small engines i could be wrong but since you can reprop just about any gear ratio change out . once water is moving too fast through passages it actually can t cool and can cause erosion because of velocity, i could also be over thinking it but i work with hydraulics and water velocity alot and i wonder about this all the time.
Nope. The gear ratio is more about keeping the prop size in the 15" to 23" range for the target boat size for the different engine families.

Yes, you could put a 1.5:1 drive on a 3L, but then in a 16' to 18' boat you'd need a 11" prop to get the engine to spin quick enough. Conversely, you could put a 1.94:1 drive behind a 350, but in a 19' or 20' boat you'd be looking for a 27" (or more) prop. By keeping the engine size/drive ratio/prop size in that sweet spot (15" to 23") a manufacturer is able to reduce the range of props needed, and concentrate on having the most efficient props in that range...

Water velocity is controlled by the thermostat. My uncle was a diesel mechanic (now retired), he did his apprenticeship with Mercedes-Benz. I once ran this whole 'water too fast to cool' thing past him... It's complete BS.

Chris.......
 

Scott Danforth

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I once ran this whole 'water too fast to cool' thing past him... It's complete BS.

I would beg to differ. Remove a thermostat and see how badly a system cools. Thermal transfer requires a specific time for water to pick up heat. That time is controlled by velocity.
 

nola mike

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Rate of heat transfer is in large part controlled by the delta temp between the 2 systems. While you'll have less time to transfer heat to the coolant in a faster moving system, the delta will remain larger since the coolant doesn't have as much time to get saturated.
 

nola mike

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I would beg to differ. Remove a thermostat and see how badly a system cools. Thermal transfer requires a specific time for water to pick up heat. That time is controlled by velocity.
Ha, might be picking the wrong guy to have an argument about this stuff with, but this might be more relevant in a closed cooling situation, since area is also a factor (more on the hx side). Open cooling is constantly being refreshed with baseline temperature water
 

Gandalfe

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... To wake up a 3.0l, ya put the right gear ratio drive, 'n as small a prop as it takes to spin it to 4800 rpms,......

Ya need a 1.98:1 drive, 'n probably a smaller prop,.....
That motor, on that drive, with that prop, will no doubt hole a piston in short order, from luggin' the 'ell outa the motor,.....
Thanks for the welcome aboard... Yes I have figured out that the 3.0 already uses a 1:75 rocker. Just pulled the 2:00 gonna try the 1:65 this week. I have a very lite 18' boat and the goal is 35-40mph cruise at 3200-3600rpm.
Wish I had a dyno sheet on these things. I don't so I'm guessing that they run most efficiently at 3200-3600 rpm. I'll report back and let you fellas know how it works. Going from Richmond out to the beach so a good 8hr ride.
 

achris

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Thanks for the welcome aboard... Yes I have figured out that the 3.0 already uses a 1:75 rocker. Just pulled the 2:00 gonna try the 1:65 this week. I have a very lite 18' boat and the goal is 35-40mph cruise at 3200-3600rpm.
Wish I had a dyno sheet on these things. I don't so I'm guessing that they run most efficiently at 3200-3600 rpm. I'll report back and let you fellas know how it works. Going from Richmond out to the beach so a good 8hr ride.
When we set up props on boats, it's not to a midrange speed, it's at full throttle (called WOT). Setting to a target speed and mid range revs setting will get you into the wrong prop size.

The way to get the right prop is to put the drive with the ratio the manufacturer specifies for that engine (in the case of a 3Litre, that's a 2:1 or 1.94:1 drive), put a prop on (for a light 18' boat I'd start with a 19") and take it out, with a normal load, and run it up to full speed. Your target RPM is 4400-4800 (aim for the high end). Based on the revs you do get (and use a shop tacho, not the dash tacho, they are not accurate enough), you can change propeller pitch to get you into the right rev range. Props are supplied in pitch increments of 2", and each 2" of change will change your WOT RPM by about 400rpm. So if your 19" runs the engine to 5100, change to a 21". If it only makes 4200, then decrease to a 17".

Trying to prop for a target speed at midrange rpm could get the wrong prop on, and that could lead to an overloaded engine (the load imparted on the engine by the prop is across the whole rpm range, not just at the top end, so if it's the wrong prop at WOT, then it's the wrong prop for the entire rev range)... Overloaded engines have a tendency to 'rapidly disassemble', in an expensive way!

Chris.........
 

Scott06

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Thanks for the welcome aboard... Yes I have figured out that the 3.0 already uses a 1:75 rocker. Just pulled the 2:00 gonna try the 1:65 this week. I have a very lite 18' boat and the goal is 35-40mph cruise at 3200-3600rpm.
Wish I had a dyno sheet on these things. I don't so I'm guessing that they run most efficiently at 3200-3600 rpm. I'll report back and let you fellas know how it works. Going from Richmond out to the beach so a good 8hr ride.

last page has dyno sheet from GM

Read what Chris wrote about gear ratio and props. boat is different than a car because there is no transmission... so if gearing and prop pitch isnt low enough engine will never get into the rpms where it makes max power.

I had a also light 17 ft with a 3.0 for many years. would top out about 40-42 if lightly loaded, flat water , and trimmed out, but was nipping 5k rpm at that speed. I don't think you will be making enough hp to cruise at that rpm and speed with a 3.0
 
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