Mercontrol Adjustments / Clarification on How to Operate - 1969 Starcraft / 1976 Merc 65HP

jasonejasone

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Mercontrol Adjustments / Clarification on How to Operate - 1969 Starcraft / 1976 Merc 65HP

Good morning!

I was hoping to get some expert advice / clarification on this Mercontrol setup I have on my 1969 Starcraft.

These controls are hooked up to a 1976 Merc 65HP outboard motor.

So, I have a few questions to ask... any help / advice / clarification is appreciated!

My basic understanding of using these controls is that the small lever is the idle adjust, and you use it along with the choke button just to get the motor started and warmed up, then the idle lever can stay all the way down and you use the bigger, throttle lever to engage forward / reverse and give the motor throttle.

I do use it for that, but here's the issue: Once I get the motor started, I will push the big lever forward to engage the forward gear. I have to push that big lever all the way forward, and even give it another good, hard push to get the boat to actually get going. Basically, once the motor starts, I push that throttle lever all the way forward and the motor doesn't rev up or move any faster.

It's not until I push that throttle lever a bit harder down - even after it seems it is pushed all the way forward (to 9 o'clock if you look at it like a clock face) and often push the idle lever up as well, before it starts moving. When I want to slow down, the big lever doesn't slow it down much, I have to lower the idle lever to get the boat to slow down.

My understanding is that once the motor is started and warmed up, the idle adjust lever should more or less be all the way down once the motor warms up and has a good idle... but I am pushing the throttle lever all the way forward, and then also raising the idle adjust in order to get the motor to rev up and get the boat on plane.

I think that the cables need some adjustment. My suspicion is that I need to adjust the throttle cable - I think it's just not opening the throttle for whatever reason... and that's why I have to raise the idle adjustment lever to actually get some gas flowing into the motor.

Another possibility is I'm just not getting enough fuel for some reason, or maybe even my fuel lines are old, or there's not a good seal in the fuel system... I think all of these could be the culprit, but it really feels like the tension on the cables just isn't right either way.

...or there's always the possibility that my understanding of how to use the Mercontrols is completely wrong. Maybe I should push the big lever all the way forward and then use the small lever to actually give it power?

I did search the forum for previous Mercontrol threads (man, people seem to really hate these things lol) and couldn't find much related to my questions... so any help or advice is appreciated!

I also broke my key off in the ignition, but it still lets me turn the ignition and start the thing so I will worry about that another day!!!
 

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Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
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27,033
That Mercontol should work fine with that motor. There are only about 10 different keys for those MerControls, so you could get a new one at a Merc Dealer. The key code is on the outside of the ignition key module. If you can get the oldkey out, you can likely match it up by eye.

I can explain how to adjust the controls, but if the cold start lever continues to give you trouble, you will need to split the control and clean it up and grease it.

You are using the control in the correct way, according to your description.

Remove the wrap cowling on the motor. Disconnect both throttle and shift cables from the motor.

Now, move the shift slide until the motor is in neutral. The slide should be about in the center of it's travel. If so, the gearcase and upper shift rods are aligned properly. Adjust the shift cable barrel nut (throttle handle at midnight), to allow the shift cable end to match the shift slide position. Install the shift cable.

Now push the throttle closed. Adjust the throttle cable barrel nut to hold it closed, and add a bit of preload (toward closed).. Throttle handle still at midnight, cold start lever down.

That should do it. If the cold start lever still refuses to stay down,you will need to open the control and clean and grease it, and maybe look for broken parts. There is a spring and steel rod (like a roller bearing), that will fall out when you open the control. Watch for it.
 

jasonejasone

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 4, 2020
Messages
45
That Mercontol should work fine with that motor. There are only about 10 different keys for those MerControls, so you could get a new one at a Merc Dealer. The key code is on the outside of the ignition key module. If you can get the oldkey out, you can likely match it up by eye.

I can explain how to adjust the controls, but if the cold start lever continues to give you trouble, you will need to split the control and clean it up and grease it.

You are using the control in the correct way, according to your description.

Remove the wrap cowling on the motor. Disconnect both throttle and shift cables from the motor.

Now, move the shift slide until the motor is in neutral. The slide should be about in the center of it's travel. If so, the gearcase and upper shift rods are aligned properly. Adjust the shift cable barrel nut (throttle handle at midnight), to allow the shift cable end to match the shift slide position. Install the shift cable.

Now push the throttle closed. Adjust the throttle cable barrel nut to hold it closed, and add a bit of preload (toward closed).. Throttle handle still at midnight, cold start lever down.

That should do it. If the cold start lever still refuses to stay down,you will need to open the control and clean and grease it, and maybe look for broken parts. There is a spring and steel rod (like a roller bearing), that will fall out when you open the control. Watch for it.

thanks, Chris!!!

To sum up, sounds like you're saying the cables DO need a bit of adjusting.

It really feels like my throttle just isn't opening up until I push the throttle handle all the way to 8 o'clock.

By the way - some other info I found stated that 9 o'clock is NOT full throttle, you actually have to push it to 8 o'clock. That was news to me, but it makes sense.

I'm just not seeing any difference in the throttle at ALL from midnight to 9 o'clock... so I will take your advice and see if I can make some adjustments to the throttle cable... hopefully that will do the trick!

Thanks for the help, there is just so little info out there about these controls... and frankly installing a new control system is pretty daunting for a beginner like me... so again, thanks for taking the time to try to help!
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
The key part that should still be on your key fob/chain has the key replacement number.

When you advance the throttle the warm up lever raises, doesn't it? If the warm up lever is raised, the throttle is in a bind. Don't force the throttle if the warmup lever is up and not flat down on the housing.

What causes the lever to lift when using the throttle is a broken small spring loaded pin and a few other parts. Items 13-16 in the drawing below. I've posted about this multiple times in the forum.

Until the warm up holding detent pin is fixed, hold the warm up lever down when advancing the throttle. You will be amazed how easy the throttle lever moves as long as the cables aren't shot and the warm up lever is fully down.

I don't think the cables need adjusted. The reason the boat won't slow down is because the warm up lever is up, which advances the throttle just like the throttle lever.


Click image for larger version  Name:	warmup lever detent.png Views:	1 Size:	83.7 KB ID:	10929084
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
The pin the Chris talked about is the neutral detent pin and spring - Items 2 and 3 in the above drawing. I had it fly out of the boat when I opened the control one time. It was 2 weeks before I found it because it flew out of the boat.
 

jasonejasone

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 4, 2020
Messages
45
The key part that should still be on your key fob/chain has the key replacement number.

When you advance the throttle the warm up lever raises, doesn't it? If the warm up lever is raised, the throttle is in a bind. Don't force the throttle if the warmup lever is up and not flat down on the housing.

What causes the lever to lift when using the throttle is a broken small spring loaded pin and a few other parts. Items 13-16 in the drawing below. I've posted about this multiple times in the forum.

Until the warm up holding detent pin is fixed, hold the warm up lever down when advancing the throttle. You will be amazed how easy the throttle lever moves as long as the cables aren't shot and the warm up lever is fully down.

I don't think the cables need adjusted. The reason the boat won't slow down is because the warm up lever is up, which advances the throttle just like the throttle lever.



Hey GA!

No - the throttle lever does NOT raise up when I advance the throttle. They can both be moved independently.

Rather, I was saying that advancing the throttle all the way doesn't actually make the engine rev higher. That only happens when I advance the throttle lever as far is it seems to want to go, and then also push on it a bit more to get it closer to the 8 o'clock position. It wants to stop initially around 9 o'clock, and then I have to give it good pressure to move it just maybe another half inch towards 8 o'clock, and that is when the motor seems to be full-throttle.

I also have to independently raise the idle lever to get the boat to speed up or slow down, even when the throttle is pushed ALL the way forward. If I have the idle lever all the way down, then the throttle lever basically does nothing. It's only when the throttle is pushed as far forward as it can go, AND I move the idle lever up around 12 o'clock or so that the motor gets to full revs.

That's what is making me think that the throttle lever needs adjusting - I think either the cable stretched / worn / just needs adjusting inside the cowl, or maybe there's another issue elsewhere in the fuel system.

It may also need the idle adjusted as well, again inside the cowl, because once it warms up, it should idle fine with the idle lever in the 3 o'clock (all the way down) position, correct?

Supposedly, the guy I bought the boat from had JUST serviced / cleaned the carbs... which also points me back to cable adjustments, assuming he wasn't BSing me.

Overall, the boat is still fully operable as-is, but if I can make some small cable adjustments to get the controls working the way they are intended, it would be a much better experience.
 
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