MCM260 Problem

62cruiserinc

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
291
Hi everyone:

It's been a while since I posted.

I have a 1981 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer that I bought about 8 years ago. It has an MCM260 with alpha drive. The previous owner replaced the engine and the outdrive with an SE outdrive. The engine has an Edelbrock 4 barrel marine carburetor.

It was running well until last year my sonsaid the boat wouldn't restart a few miles offshore. He was towed in and I found water in the cylinders. Fortunately it ran fine after drying everything out. However, I suspected the exhaust shutters may have corroded away. There is a great local boat repair guy and I took the boat to him. He replaced the exhaust shutters and said the old ones were rotted away. He also put in new plug wires and plugs.

After the shutter replacement last year, it was late in the season and the boat only went out a few times by my son. He mentioned that it didn't seem to run as fast.

This year we did maintenance on the boat (gear oil, engine oil, etc) and we put in a new dash and did a lot of rewiring to clean up a messy wiring job. We put it in the water and now it tops out at 3K RPM and about 12mph.

It starts very easily and runs very smoothly, it just stops accelerating when it gets to 3K RPM.

The prop is the same one that has been on it all along and the hub is not spun.

The boat repair guy said to try pulling off one plug wire at a time at the distributor and see if the RPM drops. We did and the RPM dropped about the same for each of the 8 cylinders.

The boat has a Teleflex SL3 throttle and shift controller. One of the ideas was that maybe the throttle wasn't opening far enough at the carb. It does look like the carb throttle can more a little farther than the controller allows. However, it looks like the throttle range at the controller is less than the range needed to go from idle to full open throttle at the carb. When you push the button at the base of the SL3 handle to put it in neutral, the lever goes forward quite a distance before the internal mechanism starts to move the throttle lever. Adjusting the cable at the carb so it goes full throttle results in the throttle not going down all the way to idle and the "idle" is now at 1500 RPM. There doesn't appear to be an adjustment at the SL3 to lessen the "dead zone" in the lever from straight up to where it starts pulling the throttle cable.

I'm not even sure the throttle has anything to do with the 3K RPM "limit" I am having.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Steve
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,291
First verify the throttle is opening all the way
Then verify the firing order 1.8.4.3.6.5.7.2 clockwise
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
In addition to the throttle control sometimes there is an additional hole closer the throttle shaft which will give full open on the carburetor.
Does your engine still have the original ignition? Or has it been converted to a points style system.
 

62cruiserinc

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
291
In addition to the throttle control sometimes there is an additional hole closer the throttle shaft which will give full open on the carburetor.
Does your engine still have the original ignition? Or has it been converted to a points style system.
The engine still has the original points setup.

Good idea on checking the carb for another hole closer to the throttle shaft.

I'm just baffled as to what could have changed suddenly.

I could also disconnect the throttle cable and operate the throttle manually (by hand) while my son drives the boat. If it goes to 4500 RPM or so at full throttle then it's the throttle control/cable.

Steve
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
You should also check the dwell and timing, it could be possible that the centrifugal advance in the distributor is not advancing due to being stuck from corrosion.
 

62cruiserinc

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
291
Ok, I dug out the timing light, dwell/rpm meter and remote starter switch. A friend gave them to me years ago saying nobody will need these anymore. They're high-quality units, too. I haven't used those type of devices in decades.

As soon as I get a chance to get back to the boat (it's in a slip) I'll check all the settings.

To check the centrifugal advance, can I safely rev the engine up to 4400rpm in neutral with the boat in the slip?

Steve
 

flashback

Captain
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
3,963
You shouldn't need to go to 4400, 3000 and it should be fully advanced. If you're familiar on how the advance works you need to insure the weights move freely a drop of light oil on the pivots and check the spring's are ok.
 
Top