MCM 140 wiring help!!!

sti1471

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 2, 2011
Messages
312
I have been trying to figure out why my MCM140 is running rough at idle.

So far this is what I have done.

Set point gap to .022 with feeler gauge.
new spark plugs set to .035"
new condenser
changed oil
set timing to 6* BTDC
took carb apart and cleaned it out 100%.
set float drop to 27mm (1 3/32")
set float level to 14mm
running fresh fuel.
new fuel filter in fuel pump.
I did not replace the points, rotor or cap yet since the spark is a thick blue spark when place near a ground.

When the engine is cold, I pump 2 squirts of gas from the throttle and turn the key. The boat fires up almost right away. It idles around 1400 rpm when cold. the choke is 100% closed. The engine has a slight shake to it. As I take the idle down to around 900 the engine starts to shake more, and I can see the Tach needle jumps about 1/4" at times. I have pulled each plug when the engine is running and the engine gets worse when I remove each plug so I know they are all firing. I have adjusted the idle mixture screw to rich until it gets rough, and then change it to lean where it gets rough, I then found a middle spot in between. However it did not smooth out the idle. the engine revs up and sounds great and there is no shake when it revs up.

I am now looking at the electrical / ignition now and I am getting confused. I am reading about a resistance wire that should be connected to the coil. My coil only has a purple/yellow that goes down to the starter, and a brown (or dull red) that goes into the loom where I cannot find where it comes out on the + side. On the Neg side it has a black wire from the dist, and a gray wire that goes into the loom where I have not located the other end. I do not see a purple resistance wire on the coil. I do however see a purple wire that comes from what looks like the from of the boat, and connects to the "breaker reset button" panel.

I tested the purple wire, and when the key is in the "on" position, it is getting about 5.5 Volts. I am wondering if that purple wire needs to be run to the Coil instead.

When I put a multimeter on the + coil and ground the other prob to engine block with the key in the "on" position, it reads 10.5 volts, I thought it would be closer to 12 volts. After I start the engine, I am still getting 10.5 volts. i thought I read somewhere that the votes should go down after the engine is started. On a side note, my coil that was in the boat had a crack in the top and was dripping oil. I had a coil laying around but i think it is a ford style coil. I installed it and it seems to work good and produced a nice spark so I left it. I tested the OHM with the multimeter set at 20 value. put the red probe on the lead battery terminal, and the black probe on the start of the battery cable and got 0.8 ohms. I then put the probe on the battery terminal and the other probe on the starter where the red cable connects and it read 5.5 ohms. is this too much resistance?

Could a battery that might be on its last leg cause bad idle at lower rpms?

Anyways, here is a picture of my coil area. does this look normal wiring, or am I missing something on the coil connection?

in this picture the arrows are labeled.
#1- where the purple wire currently connects to on the reset button
#2- the purple wire coming out of the loom that appears to be coming from the front of the boat.
#3- Purple/yellow wire that goes to the starter area.
#4- Brown or dull red wire I have not traced where it goes yet.
#5- gray wire going into the loom
#6- black wire coming from dist.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Messages
27,468
Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

How do the cylinder compressions look?
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

I tested the purple wire, and when the key is in the "on" position, it is getting about 5.5 Volts. I am wondering if that purple wire needs to be run to the Coil instead.

If you only has 5.5v on the purple wire, it wouldn't run at all. I would bet you are doing the voltage test wrong with your meter. Black test lead to a good clean ground.. Always.
Red test lead to the point you want to check voltage at.

You didn't put in a year of your engine, or a serial number, but the wiring color codes are the newer BIA code, so here is the wiring diagrams that may help you figure out your wiring. It looks like it has some issues.
The coil tower is also showing a lot of corrosion, are both ends of the coil and plug wires clean of corrosion, and are your plug wires in good shape?

Not sure what that slide on coil cap thing is. And wires twisted together is a big red flag.

I also agree with achris, do a compression test before you spend a lot of time on the wiring.


View attachment 140 wiring.pdf
 

sti1471

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
312
Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

The slide on cap on the top of the Dist is the connection for a coil like the one I have. it does not have the screws on the posts, it is a ford style coil so I needed to buy the connection part for it from Napa. The wires twisted on are from when I installed it a few days ago. However since I was not sure if I needed to add a resistance wire or not, I did not finish and clean it up yet.

The purple wire has 5.5 volts running to it. But the purple wire is not connected to the coil, it was connected to the fuse button panel. when I place the tester lead to ground, and the other to the + side of the coil I am getting 10.6 volts. since the purple wire was showing 5.5 volts, I was wondering if this was my resistance wire just hooked up to the wrong place.

I did a compression test in early spring. First time I ever did a compression test so I performed the test when the engine was cold, and when the engine had not been started since last season. the results are
Cyl#1- 130
Cyl#2- 125
Cyl#3- 125
Cyl#4- 110

However I think I need to do another compression test now that I have the boat running and do it when it is warmed up.

The engine serial number is 6703940
the boat is a 1984 so I assume the engine is as well.
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

The slide on cap on the top of the Dist is the connection for a coil like the one I have. it does not have the screws on the posts, it is a ford style coil so I needed to buy the connection part for it from Napa. The wires twisted on are from when I installed it a few days ago. However since I was not sure if I needed to add a resistance wire or not, I did not finish and clean it up yet.

The purple wire has 5.5 volts running to it. But the purple wire is not connected to the coil, it was connected to the fuse button panel. when I place the tester lead to ground, and the other to the + side of the coil I am getting 10.6 volts. since the purple wire was showing 5.5 volts, I was wondering if this was my resistance wire just hooked up to the wrong place.

I did a compression test in early spring. First time I ever did a compression test so I performed the test when the engine was cold, and when the engine had not been started since last season. the results are
Cyl#1- 130
Cyl#2- 125
Cyl#3- 125
Cyl#4- 110

However I think I need to do another compression test now that I have the boat running and do it when it is warmed up.

The engine serial number is 6703940
the boat is a 1984 so I assume the engine is as well.


The wiring diagrams are the same so that's not going to change.

Might want to consider getting the proper coil, might help how it runs.
 

stonyloam

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Messages
5,827
Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

Couple of things here: You need to set the dwell, not just the point gap. You need to get yourself a dwell meter/tach like this: Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer : Amazon.com : Automotive . It could be that your tach is off a little and you are trying to set the idle too low, and a 4 cyl will seem to be running pretty rough if you try to idle it way down. The dwell meter will allow you to check. You can check your wiring by removing all but the p/y ire from the coil + and running a temporary jumper wire to the battery + (once it starts it will run until you remove the jumper). Don't let it run too long just to see if that helps.
 

sti1471

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Messages
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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

Thanks all that is good advise. However I see on my engine plate that there is a dwell range. So is something specific it should be set at and if so why is there a range? I also noticed there was a gap point range. Manual says .022 but the range is from .018-.025. Is this saying I can use any setting in those ranges that my engine runs best at?
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

It's hard to get exact in anything. Get as close as possible to the middle of the range.
 

sti1471

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

When setting the dwell do I get the reading while cranking the engine over or does the engine need to be running. The shut the engine off, remove cap, adjust, install cap, start engine, grt reading and do that until I get it right? Or do I just remove the cap and turn they key to crank the engine without starting it? I guess in other words, to get a good accurate reading does the engine need to be running or just cranking over?
 

stonyloam

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

When setting the dwell do I get the reading while cranking the engine over or does the engine need to be running. The shut the engine off, remove cap, adjust, install cap, start engine, grt reading and do that until I get it right?

It needs to be running. Yeah that is pretty much the procedure, kind of a PITA. On auto distributors there was a little door that you could slide open and adjust the dwell with allen wrench. No little door on marine distributors:grumpy:.
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

And that little door was only on GM V8 engines.. Those even ended in the early 70's.

You can usually set the dwell while cranking the engine (with some dwell meters) but you still need to check again while running.
Usually a meter will be off one way or the other by a few degrees, you just have to figure out which why your meter is off.
 

sti1471

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Messages
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Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

OK...

Here are my findings from tonight with the boat.

In March when I started working on the boat, the engine had not been started in almost 3 years. I could not get the engine to start so I checked compression. the readings were
cyl1- 130
cyl2-125
cyl3-135
cyl4- 110

Ended up fixing the spark issue and the motor fired up. Since march I have been running the engine on water muffs on the trailer. never reving the engine past 2000. Temp gauge showed engine was running at a good temp, never over heated. As stated above, the engine starts right up and seems to run good, however it idles rough.

So I went to an auto parts store on my way home and rented a compression tester. When I performed the test, I did not warm the engine to running temp as this was not an option when I was doing the test. Here are the readings.

Cyl1- 63
Cyl2-3
cyl3-3
cyl4-63

I have no idea how the compression has gone down that much as it was normal in march and it has not been started that much.
I am suspecting a blown head gasket. However I am not sure why 1 and 4 are at 60. unless the head gasket is just thrashed.

Could this be the rocker arms? Is there a way to check the rocker arms to see if those are the cause of the issue, or should I just start tearing down to the cylinders?

One thing I noticed that was strange, I turned the engine on for about 8-10 seconds to get everything moving. I then removed the spark plugs. when I removed cylinder #2 spark plug, there was light smoke coming out of the spark plug hole. none of the other spark plugs had this when I removed them, just number 2.

thoughts?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
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Messages
27,468
Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

Smoke coming from one plug hole is not uncommon. It just means there was combustion products left in the chamber after the engine stopped turning.

Low compressions on the outside cylinders could be a few things. None of which would be an engine problem. Could be the gauge, the fact it wasn't a warm engine, did you have the throttle wide open when you did the test? If not, that could also cause it.

The centre cylinders at 3 would really concern me. I would do a couple of things. Get another compression gauge and recheck the readings, but this time when the engine is warm. I would also get a leakdown tester and find out exactly where you're losing the pressure.

Chris........
 

sti1471

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Messages
312
Re: MCM 140 wiring help!!!

Thanks achris..

yeah cylinder 3 concerns me for sure. However when took the reading I just assumed that it would be a blown head gasket since 2-3 are right next to each other and reading the same PSI to the exact number.

Yes I had the throttle plates open 100%. when you say leak down test, are you referring to using compressed air?

So from my thoughts, this is my next plan of action.

take the valve cover off. check to make sure all valves are opening and closing. once I verify they are, then perform a leak down test on all cylinders.

If testing cyl 2 and air is coming out of cyl3, then it is a head gasket. If I hear air out of exhaust then it is exhaust valve, and if I hear air coming out of valves, then the other valve is not sealing. and I understanding this correct?

If I hear air coming out of exhaust what would the fix be?
if I hear air coming out of valves what would the fix be?
if I hear air coming out of the oil fill cap, what would the fix be for this?

Thanks guys..
 
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