Mariner 135 Optimax

[edgeh20]

Great Site!!! I have a 1998 135 Optimax with about 500 hours on it. While running 2 months ago I had an engine warning alarm while returning to port. The volt meter registered only 10 volts. I had the boat checked by my dealer. Apparently, the bolt which holds the alternator bracket shear off an damaged the alternator and the belt. <br /><br />I get the boat back from the shop and tried to run in the ocean today, since it had not been run in 2 months. The engine started rough, but started right up. It settled down and idled smoothly after a minute, but the check engine warning light was on. I restarted the engine to check the alarms and warning lights check which reset nicely, but then the warning check engine light comes on after 3 seconds. <br /> <br />My volt meter is reading 14 volts at idle. So I think the alternator problem is fixed, but I have the check engine warning light, and now I notice the engine is slow to pee and the pee is not steady for several minutes. Turning the engine off and then on the pee is slow to start an doesn't seem that intense. The temp guage agrees with me and engine is heating up faster than it should in such cold weather. I think I had some ice blocking the intake holes, because the temp dropped, but the check warning light was still on.<br /><br />With my engine cooling properly I pushed off and circled in the area to see how it acted at more throttle than idle. The engine didn't take long to start running inconsistantly and I returned to the ramp.<br /><br />Would my not using the boat for 2 months cause/create either an ignition coil or a injector problem? Isn't there a sensor connected in the alternator system somewhere? My guess is that sensor is causing the warning light. Is this related to the original repair?

 

[12Footer]

Re: Mariner 135 Optimax

Welcome to iboats.<br />It would depend on which warning the engine is reporting. It could be oil injection , voltage,or temp. I would asume it is an overheat allarm. The things that tend to cause this on an engine that has sat unused for a while, is the impeller "taking a set", or a blockage.<br />The impeller is in a concentric housing. If it is an older impeller,the rubber (or noeprene) gets stiffer than normal, and the inpeller will take-on the shape of the housing, and hold it until it desintagrates.<br />If it has been longer than 1 year since you changed-out the impeller, now is the best time to have a new one installed, allong with a Lower unit drain/fill/inspection.<br />The other cause is corrosion or crystalized salt forming in the cooling circuit. It can shut-down normal flow thru the engine. Usually, a piece of window screen held in the telltale flow will produce little white chunks. This is corosion (alluminum oxide) or salt crystals that have been allowed to grow.Causes are improper flushing after running in salt water, or water sitting inside the manifolds.<br />At any rate, this needs immediate attention. Avoid even test runs until the impeller is changed out.<br />some outboards are designed to run rough when they aren't getting sufficiant lube or cooling(an rev-limiterv hooked into the alarm circuit).<br /><br />One other thing to check for, is water condensation in the fuel and oil tanks, which would cause rough running too, and shut down an oiler.

 

[edgeh20]

Re: Mariner 135 Optimax

Thanks for help and response. I have warning lights for temp, volt, oil and engine. Only the engine light is on with no alarm which supposedly indicates a sensor, injector, or ignition coil. <br /><br />It has been really cold here with several inches of snow and ice was floating around the ramp area. (This is my optimistic side) As soon as we get a day above 30 degrees I will take a look and get back. Thanks again from an ex-Floridian.