Manual Help..

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

from engine tank empty when you turn the switch on engine off it should refill the engine tank in less than 180 seconds.
checking this system is a lot easier with the correct rigging.

So your saying that even with the key in the off position, the tank should refill...correct?

 

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

Scratch that last post.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Manual Help..

key on engine off, no key on power no pump running ever. have you checked the remote oil tank filter? its very possible that if restricted the engine will consume oil faster than it can transfer.

now for the remote level indicate.
lets back up to the remote tank.
at the remote tank there is a 4 pin connector, blue is pump ground path, brown is key on 12V power.
black is SWB ground and black red is the signal to the ECU that SWB is closed.
SWB is the remote tank level indicate switch.
lok near the 10 pin main and locate the connector that has a green/red wire and the green, or green/white wire.
trace it back to the dash.
the wire color may change at the engine harness depending on which harness was used.
its the same harness that feeds the trim indicate and the overtemp indicate.
SWB close completes the ground path that sets the far right bar,in your case the its missing.
when SWB opens the ECU opens the circuit on the green or green/white wire and the tach shifts to the center bar,in your case its missing.
with SWB open automatic oil transfer is prohibited but there is enough oil for 2 manual transfers.
once automatic transfer is prohibited the engine tank gets low triggering RPM reduction,audible on and the far left bar on the tach,in your case the red oil LED or lamp.
what you have to do is find the green or green/white from the engine to the console.
then add an LED to the green or green/white.
remember its a ground path.
hook the - LED terminal to the green or green/white and the + LED terminal to the key on yellow.
if swb is closed the LED will light,if SWB opens the lamp goes out.
if the lamp is out no automatic transfer can occur.

 

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

Rod...one quick question. After checking all switches and them turing out fine. How can I test this thing to make sure the remote tank fills BEFORE I get an alarm?

I know where the switch activates: top float down and bottom float up..correct? Does the motor have to be running in order to do this? All my test above have been when the float bottoms out in the engine tank. If the switches are working right, shouldnt I be able to get a reading off one of the plugin connectors at the boat side tank?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Manual Help..

remote tank YOU fill, engine tank the oil transfer system fills.
on the engine tank the switch is actually a 3 position reed type float switch.
sw1,float up, switch commands oil transfer off, sw1 open means nothing.
SW2 closed,float about mid point, switchs tells the ECU to ground the blue transfer pump wire and start pumping if sw1 never closes again the pump will never turn off.
SW3 closed,float all the way down.
second transfer pump on command,audible,visual idicate set and RPM reduction.
SWB remote tank switch simply tells the ECU if there is enough oil to initiate a transfer.
SWB open or a broken wire in the SWB circuit and no automatic transfer.
SWB closed lights a green lamp or right hand bar,SWB open or circuit failure and the center bar is lit,which you dont have, and automatic transfer never occurs.
like I say, its a very simple system but there are a few things going on at the same time.

 

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

Ive taken the engine tank sensor (switch) and moved the top float into where it should activate the boat side tank. Notta...nothin. Yet on the continuity test...its fine.

 

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

By following the diagrams, the Blue Green wire feeds the pump its ground but goes to the computer first.

The Oil Pump problem I have, goes to the computer also. Whats the odds I have a bad ECU. I'll pray Yamaha helps me out on tis one.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Manual Help..

key on engine off you CANNOT have automatic transfer.
only way is to make sure the remote tank is at least 1/2 full.
drain the engine tank via the water trap.
turn the key on, if rigged correctly and yours isnt, you get audible and three bars flashing and a 180 second transfer.
other than that all other automatic functions must have a pulser coil signal to the ecu.
hook your multi meter into the bullet connectors at the remote pump, key on should see about 0 volts.
start the engine.
with engine idling drain the trap until SW2 or SW3 closes.
should see about 10 to 11v if so the pump is running, then it would be a restricted remote oil tank filter or a pinched line.
odds of an ECU failure are low, even lower since your freshwater use.
remember if the ECU sees an open on SWB it disallows automatic transfer but manual can still be done.
thats why a correctly rigged boat is so sweet.
I usually charge extra cause it takes longer when dealing with aftermarket rigging.
I have seen the remote filter clog and the pump try to run in a stalled condition and cause the oil pump control circuits to burn out.
rare but it has happened maybe 3 times for me in about 15 years.

 

[TnTrls]

Re: Manual Help..

Can the tach be changed out with a proper one to give me those warning levels? Seems that would be a good idea to have it set up properly. I have a guy that can do the work on that but I would need to know what tach to get. I'd also like to match the "look" of the ones I have now too.

I didnt realize that the motor needed to be running to test that either. Cant recall reading that in all the mat'l. I'll try it before I send this boat off today.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Manual Help..

cause most this isnt in the manual, its in my head cause I have done it a long time,attended classes at least once,normally twice a year, and have missed 1 tech seminar in 10 years, thats cause I was in kennesaw GA doing the F350 class.
not knowing what trim and oil alarm harness they rigged it with, if any, I cant say what tach.
its in the one of the tech gudes that list tachs and hearness's buy year model as to whats reccomended and what is not.
google yamaha marine technical training, look for the master tech graduates.
count them.
thats all there is in the US.
made mine first shot in 06,closed book, two hours,5 sections 20 questions each.
miss 5 in any section and you failed, miss 6 total and you failed.
only you were not told what part you failed and had to return the next school cycle,pass any course but basic with at least an 80% to be eligible to try again.
out of the 18 students in my advanced 4 stroke class only 9 made above 80% which made them eligible to take the master exam, after a 15 min break from the advanced test 9 of us started the two hour master tech test,4 of us passed it.
qustions like the proper shimmig procedure for say a C40 drive shaft.
say what is the fliud relief path for an F90 trim/tilt is backing up and striking an object.
say if your running down the river and the remote tank harness becomes unplugged on a VZ225TLR.
or say the engine oil tank becomes unplugged runnig down the river.
or say I get an alarm idling in nuetral but it goes away when I shift into gear on my VZ225TLR.
or say what do the yellow/black wires do on a F40tlrb.
say how many pulser coils does a 225 1996 yamaha have?

we did get a pencil and a tune up spec guide, other than that 5 sections,fuel,electrical,drive train,precision blend,fourstroke systems.
after I was done I was afraid they would never let me work on a yamaha again and was doubtful I had spelled my name correctly.