Maintenance - New owner of 89 Mercruiser 4.3L Alpha One

[minj]

Good day,
Just bought a boat for the family and according to the previous owner, I have to do the engine oil change and foot lubricant.
I do not have the products and tools at the moment but I thought about asking the pros here regarding the products I wanted to get:

1. Gear lube pump: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBKKWY?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_NVA4BK0B8VMVAP89HXRC
2. Marine Grease/Lubricant pump: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001HBWQWG?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_YFANTNCMG4XP1B2K5TW5
3. Grease for the propeller shaft: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002V3KD2O?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_3YB7EA8W3VSE208VE6CK
4. Engine oil x 1: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...40-3-78-l-0281763p.html?rq=Mercruiser+oil#srp
5. Lubricant for the foot x2 (from what I've read it could require more than 1): https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...ar-lubricant-sae-90-1-l-0281766p.html?loc=plp

Also wondering if I am missing anything or you would recommend something.
I believe I also need the oil / gas filter? When doing this type of maintenance? Any recommendations to get those mercruiser products in canada?
Thank you so much!

 

[dubs283]

Yes to all 5. Don't comprehend French but the lube looks like it says high performance gear lube, 90 wt is what you need.

A fuel/water separating filter is a good idea to change, most likely a spin on/oil filter type if equipped. Otherwise there is a filter in the fuel pump that should be changed regularly.

Good idea to pull the drive unit and inspect the u joints, gimbal bearing, engine coupler and alignment. Also give the bellows/water passage hose and trim sender wiring an inspection.

A tune up never hurts as long as the components are correct spec/quality

 

[QBhoy]

Yes to all 5. Don't comprehend French but the lube looks like it says high performance gear lube, 90 wt is what you need.

A fuel/water separating filter is a good idea to change, most likely a spin on/oil filter type if equipped. Otherwise there is a filter in the fuel pump that should be changed regularly.

Good idea to pull the drive unit and inspect the u joints, gimbal bearing, engine coupler and alignment. Also give the bellows/water passage hose and trim sender wiring an inspection.

A tune up never hurts as long as the components are correct spec/quality

That’s the right gear lube, I’d say. You’ll need about 1.8 litres. Two of those tubs and a pump to get it in from the bottom up.
You’ll need at least 5 litres of engine oil. Check if you have the remote oil filter or the usual 4.3 oddity of the on engine filter. They are different from one another.
The extreme grease is good for just about everything.

 

[nola mike]

Those prices are shockingly high. Get any standard grease gun and marine grease for most things. Look around the forums for a lively oil debate, but most here don't use quicksilver oil. I grudgingly use either QS or sierra high performance in the drive. The lube pumps are pretty much the same, just get one with a metal adapter fitting (instead of plastic). Drive should also be pulled to check alignment (you'll need an alignment tool off eBay/Amazon), check gimbal bearing and grease ujoints. Whoops just saw dubs said some of the same above.

 

[tpenfield]

Welcome to iBoats . . .

If you are going to remove the outdrive (foot/pied), which you probably should check the engine alignment and inspect the bellows for signs of wear, cracking, etc. There is a special tool for checking the alignment that you can search for online. There are various copy-cat tools that can be bought for a lot less than the Mercury tool.

Also, when you have the U-joints and also the gimbal bearing, as well as check the gimbal bearing for signs of wear.

Newer outdrives have 'perma-lube' type of bearings, so you don't get to have as much 'fun', but yours being an older engine/outdrive, should have all the grease fittings.

 

[Scott Danforth]

With a new to you boat that didn't even have the easy maintenance done....make sure to do all the maintenance

Pull the drive and inspect the gimbal bearing, u-joints and bellows

Check the alignment

Change the raw water pump

Do a baseline compression test. All cylinders should be between 140 and 150 psi

Change the fluids

Change the fuel filter

Change the plugs

While inspecting the bilge, look for cracks in the interior gel. That will be an indicator of structural issues

 

[Bondo]

That’s the right gear lube, I’d say. You’ll need about 1.8 litres. Two of those tubs and a pump to get it in from the bottom up.
You’ll need at least 5 litres of engine oil. Check if you have the remote oil filter or the usual 4.3 oddity of the on engine filter. They are different from one another.
The extreme grease is good for just about everything.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Good info in this thread, but I take exception with Qboy on this grease comment,.....

Quicksilver 2-4-C is a teflon based grease, 'n is the Best for bushing type bearings,.....
But,.... It should Not be used on any ball, roller, or needle type bearings,....
The balls, rollers, or needles will slide, rather than rotate, 'n create flat spots on 'em,....
So for the gimbel bearing, 'n u-joints, you should use plain ole chassis grease,.....

And,.... Yer options 2, 'n 3 are the exact same thing, in different containers,....

I use plenty of plain ole chassis grease for the prop shaft, myself,.... Ditto all the splined shafts,...
This is one of those places my signature comes into play,....

 

[minj]

Wow, I was not expecting so many good comments! Thank you everyone for your input! I will definately look closer at your comments when I get the boat and start looking into it!

 

[minj]

Those prices are shockingly high. Get any standard grease gun and marine grease for most things. Look around the forums for a lively oil debate, but most here don't use quicksilver oil. I grudgingly use either QS or sierra high performance in the drive. The lube pumps are pretty much the same, just get one with a metal adapter fitting (instead of plastic). Drive should also be pulled to check alignment (you'll need an alignment tool off eBay/Amazon), check gimbal bearing and grease ujoints. Whoops just saw dubs said some of the same above.

I heard something similar around the oil. What are they recommending instead of using the QS? Is it possible that the oil is made by only 1 or 2 big companies and then sold under little brands?

 

[Bondo]

I heard something similar around the oil. What are they recommending instead of using the QS? Is it possible that the oil is made by only 1 or 2 big companies and then sold under little brands?

Ayuh,...... Many of us just run quality diesel motor oil,....
I run 15W-40 rotella in all of my motors,....

 

[Scott06]

Ive run rotella which is good if you have a flat tappet cam. In my newer 5.0 i run mobil 1. 15w50 seems to keep oil pressure up even on good long higher rpm runs or when im towing skiiers for and hour plus straight. The conventional rotella is also about as cheap as it gets

 

[QBhoy]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Good info in this thread, but I take exception with Qboy on this grease comment,.....

Quicksilver 2-4-C is a teflon based grease, 'n is the Best for bushing type bearings,.....
But,.... It should Not be used on any ball, roller, or needle type bearings,....
The balls, rollers, or needles will slide, rather than rotate, 'n create flat spots on 'em,....
So for the gimbel bearing, 'n u-joints, you should use plain ole chassis grease,.....

And,.... Yer options 2, 'n 3 are the exact same thing, in different containers,....

I use plenty of plain ole chassis grease for the prop shaft, myself,.... Ditto all the splined shafts,...
This is one of those places my signature comes into play,....

Think I probably said the extreme grease is good for “just about everything” didn’t mention the the 2-4-c at all, I’m sure.
All the best Bondo