Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

[lindy46]

Last winter, I replaced all the seals in my 1957 35hp Lark. Pressure tested OK. Filled it up with gear oil and put it in the water in the Spring. Just pulled it out of the water, and drained the L/U. Oil was real milky! Pressure tested it again for 3 hours and it held 12psi. I turned the drive shaft, prop shaft and moved the shift rod, and it still held pressure. Strange - water is getting in somewhere, but the seals hold pressure. I'm wondering if it would be better to fill the L/U with a light grease like Lubriplate 105? Early Mercs used this grease due to their notoriously bad seals. Anyone know if it would be OK in my Evinrude?

 

[14ftgrumman]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

That is more of an engine asembly lube. Not sure how it would work in a gear box. Might get too much air combined with it.

How about Lucas Oil Stavilizer? When I was selling car parts, I had customers that would use it in noisy gear boxes.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Those old lower units will generally leak a bit regardless of how well sealed they are. Shafts move a bit, things warm up and cool off, etc. It happens. Every time you shift gears you create a slight pressure differential due to the hydraulic effect of the shaft moving up or down. It's not a huge amount, but over the course of a season it can add up. Best way to take care of it is to drain and refill every few weeks of use as was originally recommended.

The 105 grease is not recommended - it doesn't work so well in those units as they are designed for the oil to circulate through the housing.

 

[F_R]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Those old lower units will generally leak a bit regardless of how well sealed they are. Shafts move a bit, things warm up and cool off, etc. It happens. Every time you shift gears you create a slight pressure differential due to the hydraulic effect of the shaft moving up or down. It's not a huge amount, but over the course of a season it can add up. Best way to take care of it is to drain and refill every few weeks of use as was originally recommended.

The 105 grease is not recommended - it doesn't work so well in those units as they are designed for the oil to circulate through the housing.

Adding to what Chinewalker just said, most people don't realize that the seals in those old motors are designed to keep oil in---not keep water out. Likewise, a pressure test is effective for keeping pressure in, and not the opposite. A vacuum test probably will show considerable leakage--normal.

The factory said to change the oil regularily for a reason. Go ahead and use cheap 90 weight oil like they reccommended, change it often, and don't worry about it unless you get gross leakage in or out. If you crack the drain plug open and get clear water that has settled out of the oil, that is gross leakage.

 

[gbeardmore]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Thanks for the confirming advice to just change the oil regularly. I can't seem to keep water out either, so I have pretty much given up trying. I change the oil after every 4th use or so. I was feeling kinda guilty about this approach, but couldn't stop the oil from getting "milky", so I decided this was my best tactic. Your comments seem to confirm this. Thanks again!

 

[lindy46]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Problem is, I put the pontoon in in the Spring and take it out in the Fall - a real pain to take it out frequently as I don't have a trailer for it. I can take the L/U off in the shallow water and drain it, but that's a pain also. Maybe I'll go back to my 1972 18hp Rude, as that can stay in all summer and never takes on a drop of water.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Lindy,
How milky is the oil? Hypoid oil by it's very design is supposed to emulsify any water that gets in there so that the oil will continue to lubricate. It takes a long time for water to settle out of it. That said, if you're just getting a little bit of water over the course of a season, live with it and go about your business on the water. As FR noted, if it is getting a lot of water, then changing more often is in order...

 

[lindy46]

Re: Lubriplate 105 in geacase? 35hp Lark

Lindy,
How milky is the oil? Hypoid oil by it's very design is supposed to emulsify any water that gets in there so that the oil will continue to lubricate. It takes a long time for water to settle out of it. That said, if you're just getting a little bit of water over the course of a season, live with it and go about your business on the water. As FR noted, if it is getting a lot of water, then changing more often is in order...

Water was not settling out, it was completely emulsified. But it was very milky white. I had a 1957 7.5hp that water would actually run out the drain hole before the oil started draining. So at least it's not that bad.