Lower shift cable routing

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Sep 27, 2024
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Hi all, back again with a new thread.

This time I'm tackling the lower shift cable assembly. I actually did research ahead and ran a fishing line as a guide, but when backing the old shift jacket nut out the tension sucked it right back in.. it was crazy and I felt all hope slip from my hands. I have extremely limited access on this boat - even less than usual so it's been interesting. Anyways, here we are and I've routed some string trimmer line as a guide but I don't believe I have it under the rear starboard engine mount as recommended. Maybe someone could shed some light here, is it supposed to go on the other side of the starter and then around the Y pipe? Or is it OK the way I have it here in the pic? (See orange string trimmer line in pictures). Any insight is welcome and appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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I was going based off of this image but then realized maybe I missed going around the starboard rear engine mount. The part I have circled is the area in question as it seems it's very difficult to see the mount. And in the picture it's cut off so I didn't even realize it at first.
 

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Pay no attention with the rear engine mount
That makes me feel better! So in other words, the way I have it should be fine?

Thank you!

Edit: also, I imagine the protective sheath goes right where it's in contact with the Y pipe here?
 

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alldodge

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Agree
Most folks don't use any protection because it stays cool. Only time it would get hot is when impeller stops pumping water
 
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Agree
Most folks don't use any protection because it stays cool. Only time it would get hot is when impeller stops pumping water
Awesome, this is great news. Pretty sure there wasn't any protection on the previous either. Thank you sir!

I have a couple of other unrelated questions that I just ran into. Getting ready to reassemble the outdrive after doing all maintenance (and beyond) - I pumped QS Extreme grease (as per merc specs) thru the zerk on the transom assy, pushing out the old grease til I saw the new stuff coming out. I noticed the gimbal bearing is a bit more difficult to turn now, whereas before it was extremely easy. Is this something that will work itself out, or just due to a thicker grease/under more tension, or something else? There was zero water intrusion, bearing is in perfect shape, just seems like now it doesn't spin quite as easily as before since pumping the new grease through?

Next the clips that hold the pitot tube to the water intake hose, it seems these should also be on the trim sender/limit wires as well? Can these be replaced with a zip tie or something instead (there was none existing and having a hard time finding the clips).

Thanks again!
 

alldodge

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That question is a bit squishy

The bearing should always be smooth, meaning turning should be real smooth. Note there should be no sloop as no play, wiggle

Fresh grease will make it a bit tighter to turn but not that much more.

Rotate the bearing a bunch of times and then feel if there is any play up/down/in/out

If there is no play I think your good
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2024
Messages
20
That question is a bit squishy

The bearing should always be smooth, meaning turning should be real smooth. Note there should be no sloop as no play, wiggle

Fresh grease will make it a bit tighter to turn but not that much more.

Rotate the bearing a bunch of times and then feel if there is any play up/down/in/out

If there is no play I think your good
Yeah I turned it a bunch before, extremely smooth, like butter, with no play in any direction. Visibly looks brand new. Except now it just doesn't spin as easily, literally immediately after I pumped the new QS Extreme grease through (think a "lighter" grease was previously used? Was bright blue in colour - probably NLGI 2 marine bearing grease like I use on my boat trailer wheel bearings). Hopefully you're right and it's just new grease!
 
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