low compression #2 cylinder - 1988 suzuki dt85

so

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made more progress, took off bunch of things, still need to make a device to remove the flywheel (really stuck.) in the mean time, I took off the exhaust port cover to take a look at the pistons, seeing scorings/grooves.

questions.
1. does it look like the cylinders have been sleeved or is it just they look normally.
2. is it okay to delete the oil injection and just premix? I know in the OMC world, some people do that. Suzuki manual says in idle the injection will do only 150:1 ratio but at high rmp it'll raise it to 50:1, so not sure if premix will mess things up.

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#2 piston
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racerone

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No surprise on that scoring for me.-----Yes it is an aluminum block with a cast irom sleeve.-----That is how most outboards are made.
 

so

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so when people say they sleeve their cylinders, it just means they took off the old sleeves and install new ones? i guess I had a misunderstanding prior to this, I thought they had to bore the heck out their cylinders and then install new sleeves.
 

racerone

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????----You can bore out a cylinder by .5 mm or so and install a new .5 mm O/S piston and rings.------Or of big damage you remove the entire sleeve and install a new sleeve.-----Then bore that new sleeve to fit a standard piston / rings.-----I do not believe you could do this in your home work shop.-----It takes big coins and experience to do this work !!
 

lakensea

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First of all, ALL outboards have steel sleeves, as do all aluminum engine blocks. Because of the design of the blocks, most cannot be re-sleeved.

Why would you disable a proven, well designed oil injection system when the engine overheated?

Lastly, as I stated above, pistons have long been discontinued, as have the rings, and probably a lot of the other components needed (bearings, seals, etc.). It's not like you can just throw in any old pistons!
 

lakensea

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Sleeves are made of QUALITY CAST IRON , and not steel.
True, I misspoke, although there are some sleeves made of steel, it's not common. Also, the little outboards do not have sleeves. So I made two mistakes. I guess I get one more?
 

racerone

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Some outboards use special process to chrome plate the aluminum bores.----Some have nitrited steel bores.----You can not go wrong with plain cast iron bore engines.----Simplicity does work.-----Some cast iron sleeves are cast in place and must be machined out.
 

so

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trying to drop the lower unit, already removed the clutch control next to the cylinder head and the bolts holding the lower unit, but it only dropped maybe 1/16 inch, is anything else holding it or do i just force it down with a pry bar? not sure if it matters but it's in reverse gear. I put it in neutral yesterday and double checked it couple times but for some reason it's in reverse now.

Also, is it normal to have gear oil leaking from the joint between the lower and the mid section when I broke it loose.

clutch control - removed
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mounting bolt - removed. one in rear, 4 on each side.

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so

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got it to drop maybe an inch, then stuck.
Looks like leaked oil was just unburn oil mixture so no worry then.
 

99yam40

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most all motors I have messed with had a shift shaft you needed to disconnect in the lower part of the lower unit.
some needed the water intake screens removed to get to the coupling or some other area.
But I have not played with many Suzukis
 

so

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figured out bunch of things on my own, took off most things, outboard was left outside in the desert for some time, so everything under the cowling was covered in sand, did a lot cleaning, still got more to go.

question, is it possible to run an outboard without the lower unit, for example on a pallet, if i squirt water into the water inlet with a garden hose, like how jet ski people do with their barebone engine, like below. wanted to make sure it can actually run before buying a powerhead on ebay.

Screenshot from 2023-02-17 19-59-05.png

some before and after pics

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99yam40

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just rig up a hose to the pipe heading up to the powerhead that the pump normally hooks to and turn on the water before starting

what was holding the powerhead from coming off?
 

so

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i had only removed the shift control arm. watched bunch of YT about outboard shifting (mostly OMC, Suzuki is very few), also found a pdf version of the FSM on ebay. Then i realized i haven't really removed the shift rod yet. once that's gone, it popped off easily by the engine hoist.
 

so

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interested in a powerhead on ebay, the seller was nice enough to take it apart to show me the condition of the parts. he did mention that he was told that the motor was starting to develop a knocking sound and that two of the pistons are showing small amounts of scorching and the cylinder walls have small amount of rust.

what do you guys think of the powerhead? still good? When i put them back, i don't neccessarily need to get new seals if they're still good. right ?
 

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so

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so finally got to put back most things after cleaning them including the carbs, wiring connectors etc, tried to fire it up, it sputters for a couple seconds then dies, feels like the power just got cut off or something. when i turn the key, there's the typical two stroke firing up sound, then smoke comes out of the leg, then nothing and unburned fuel drips out of the leg.

one note is that i did not put back the oil injection pump and oil tank yet, I'm just doing premix for testing right now, is it possible that it gets no signal from the oil pump then cuts off?

ps; fresh fuel, new battery, cleaned plugs.

here's my setup for now
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so

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So got it running, starts up easy except the popping sound when it runs, maybe because the #2 low compression.

Anyhow, I started looking into the lower unit. Drained the gear fluid, didn't find much metal shavings but some shiny flakes almost like dust, is that okay? Ran a magnet in the fluid, they don't attach.
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Also, does the pump unit look okay? Will be replacing impeller and gasket. Unit looks oily, normal? it's been laying on the side for several years
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racerone

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The term---" low compression " ----Means nothing.----Post your actual numbers taken yesterday !
 

so

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The term---" low compression " ----Means nothing.----Post your actual numbers taken yesterday !
120, 40, 120. These were from a month ago. Didn't take compression yesterday but can do it again this week.
 
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