Losing a cylinder

Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
19
90% sure it isn’t fuel carb is clean/rebuilt, reed valves are good fuel pump is good. I honestly don’t know what I’m doing with timing but will do research. It runs good at any speed/ temp. I’ve had it do it right off the bat (a minute or two into ride after a little warm up) and I’ve seen it wait till 10 or 20 minutes into ride. I’ve even had a couple of times without it doing it at all or very little. Don’t know anything about when it sank. Figured it out after I bought it because of barnacles in boat and on motor. They were very small so not in water to long but probably a couple days.
 

webbd

Seaman
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
64
R1: Single carburetor on a 1978 35HP - noted. Difference between a real mechanic (R1) and a shadetree mechanic (me).

Just my thoughts. Based on what you describe, I would look at electrical connections and components in the ignition system.
You've swapped out coils, so it's not likely to be a coil.

Barnacles = saltwater, so corrosion is a possibility.

My thoughts on what it could be:
Electrical:
  • The ignition module
  • One of the pickups under the flywheel
  • A corroded connection in one of the connectors
  • A break in a wire
  • I haven't experienced a situation where a spark plug wire lost its connection after running the engine for a while use, but this might be easy to check by swapping them out
I think that this type of heat soak electrical issue would occur after the electronics get hot. In some circumstances, this might not happen while idling around, but might show up after or during a higher-speed run. In other circumstances, this issue might show up after the electronics operate for a period of time. The way I understand this ignition system, it's powered by the engine's operation, not by the battery like on a car, so turning on the key (assuming it has one) without the engine running won't warm up the electronics.

Mechanical:

I'm still wondering about the head gasket. Could a blown head gasket or a cracked head on a 2-stroke show up only when the engine is hot? I asked about whether it sank hot or cold because I wondered about shock-cooling and warpage. This might show up as reduced compression when the engine is down to one cylinder, but that resolves itself at cooler operating temperatures.

- DW
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Definitely not fuel will check wires and spark. I have used one of those but don’t remember how bright it was. Thanks for the advice.
Test so in a dark environment as to visually check the bulb's light intensity much better...

Happy Boating
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
19
I don’t think that it is the head because of the inconsistency of how it happens could be wrong though. Will let y’all know when I start replacing parts if it fixes anything. I think it is a good idea to go ahead and swap those parts( coils, cdi, and stator etc.) just to be sure.
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
19
Yes a few of the coils are a little loose. I don’t see any damage to them. Can a little play in them cause problems?
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
19
Well it’s been about half a year since I’ve messed with the motor. Replacing the CDI I believe fixed the problem but it had more problems than I wanted to fix so I’ll be using it as a parts motor. I greatly appreciate the advice and help.
 

ct1762@gmail.com

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
855
literally only 2 things needed for spark under flywheel. those being the charge coil and sensor coil. both take 5 minutes total tops to test with a DVA meter. if one of those components are bad, buy a new one from CDI. if both are in spec, replace the power pack. done.
 
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