Looking for tips and tricks for installing Bravo transom assembly

[BillWilliams]

I'm in the process of repairing a transom assembly leak which includes of course replacing rotted plywood (I'm going with some Coosa board). Anyway, in preparation of re-installing the transom assembly, I was hoping to pick up on some tips and/or tricks from the good folks here.

I figure it's not important, but the transom assembly serial number of 0L529806.

I found instructions that say I need to use a 1 3/4 inch hole saw to cut the reliefs at 60 degrees for the tiller arm to move back and forth and to drill the holes for the studs at 9/16.

I've also seen suggestions here to use bellows adhesive to first mount the gasket to get it to stay in place on the assembly.

Anything else would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[dubs283]

A transom assy swap is probably the largest scoped job on a sterndrive package that is essentially plug and play. Yes there are a lot of components in a transom assy but once together the assy itself is essentially one part save for the inner plate and associated components, steering, trim pump, shift cable, and wiring. Installing the assy is quite easy as long as the prep work is done correctly.

Merc has templates available for cutting/drilling the holes necessary for proper installation. A carbide burr in a die grinder is the easiest tool for cutting the tiller arm relief and yes, light bellows adhesive will keep the seal in place for installation

 

[tank1949]

I'm in the process of repairing a transom assembly leak which includes of course replacing rotted plywood (I'm going with some Coosa board). Anyway, in preparation of re-installing the transom assembly, I was hoping to pick up on some tips and/or tricks from the good folks here.

I figure it's not important, but the transom assembly serial number of 0L529806.

I found instructions that say I need to use a 1 3/4 inch hole saw to cut the reliefs at 60 degrees for the tiller arm to move back and forth and to drill the holes for the studs at 9/16.

I've also seen suggestions here to use bellows adhesive to first mount the gasket to get it to stay in place on the assembly.

Anything else would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Make sure aluminum is not corroded. Prime and paint!!!!! You are correct about gasket sticking. It is extremely important that the transom hole is uniform, including parallel thickness. Be sure to seal wood anywhere that may be exposed to water. I painted epoxy on all exposed wood after I cut transom hole. I assumed you left boat's outside skin on to act later on as a guide. If not you will have a lot more work to do. I believe Bondo has some manuals.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

You should find one of the templates and use it to lay out the cut out Mercruiser does offer a cut out jig, but it is pricey. Maybe find one used??? Here is one on e-bay. for 80 bux.

Mercruiser Transom Template | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercruiser Transom Template at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Here is the Mercruiser drive installation manual. Should explain just about every other question you have.

 

[BillWilliams]

Thanks for the info.
I removed the rotted wood from the inside leaving the outside of the transom untouched so I can use that as a guide for drilling and cutting the new transom boards.
Since I'm using Coosa, I won't have to worry about wood rot.

 

[tank1949]

Thanks for the info.
I removed the rotted wood from the inside leaving the outside of the transom untouched so I can use that as a guide for drilling and cutting the new transom boards.
Since I'm using Coosa, I won't have to worry about wood rot.

be sure to plug existing bolt holes with silicon before layering epoxy and coosa.

 

[Bondo]

Thanks for the info.
I removed the rotted wood from the inside leaving the outside of the transom untouched so I can use that as a guide for drilling and cutting the new transom boards.
Since I'm using Coosa, I won't have to worry about wood rot.

Ayuh,...... I often use ole cut-out patterns, either still in the barge I rebuildin' the transom on, as well as ole cut-out patterns cut outta ole hulls,....
Use to have an ole Starcrift aluminum transom,... great pattern, light-weight,....
But some scrapper stole it for it's metal,.....
Got an ole glass cut-out piece now,....

The point of my post is,..... I've also got a clamp-on drill press adapter, for my cordless drill,....
With it, I can easily keep my holes perfectly square to the new transom angle,....

Done a bunch of OMC Stringer, to Merc rebuilds on ole classic glass hulls over the years,....
Mostly Alpha 1s, 'n Gen.IIs, but doin' a Bravo now,....

 

[BillWilliams]

Thanks. The silicon suggestion sounds great to keep the holes in the fiberglass transom from filling with epoxy.