Looking at a Johnson 120hp, what to look for?

[lent0n]

Replacing my blown motor with another Johnson.

So far my local market options have yielded a lot of questionable options, a lot of motors that haven't been run in years, or are currently in parts (but want full price up front). Or home rebuilds at ridiculous prices.

There's a guy who has an 85 Johnson 120hp (J120TLECS) for a good price -$2k had it running a week ago. It came with a boat he's restoring that he's putting a 150hp on it. The engine was last serviced a year ago at a marine shop that gave it a go-over and it was stored. Looks clean as a whistle, electrical connections are tight, hoses look good, gaskets look nice, everything that moves is well greased.

Just wondering if anyone has anything to look out for? I went and checked it out in person and he said I'm welcome to come back and run some tests on it, only reason we didn't then was that it was already a bit later in the evening

My plan is to check compression, I didn't see a pee stream in the video he took of it running, but I'm going to blow some compressed air in the lines, might also be that the muffs aren't providing enough water to get a stream. Outside of that, seeing it running, shifting into gear, trim functioning, anything else I should look at? Any tips on verifying that the VRO is working properly? I was also thinking it would make sense to verify that the warning horn works, as a just in case.

Planning to put it on my 17' tri-hull that has a big transom reinforcement plate that's rock solid. Wasn't wanting to go this high in hp, but the price is right and if it's too much motor I'll sell it in the spring and get an 80 or 90hp.

 

[Crosbyman]

what is your HP rating on the tri-hull ? 120hp sounds hefty....

 

[tphoyt]

It sure does sound hefty and a transom plate is usually there because of a problem. Is this something you did or someone else?
I remember my neighbor years ago put a big plate on to beef things up and he ended up losing the whole transom. There was nothing left of the wood core. There was only glass and the plate was useless. He lost everything in the blink of an eye.

 

[lent0n]

what is your HP rating on the tri-hull ? 120hp sounds hefty....

Not sure, the weight diff from the 70hp that was there to this is 230lbs to 300lbs.

 

[lent0n]

It sure does sound hefty and a transom plate is usually there because of a problem. Is this something you did or someone else?
I remember my neighbor years ago put a big plate on to beef things up and he ended up losing the whole transom. There was nothing left of the wood core. There was only glass and the plate was useless. He lost everything in the blink of an eye.

I didn't put the transom plate originally no. If there was any sort of give I wouldn't even consider it but even with the 70hp on it I can't get any movement on it. Some photos for reference. My logic is that, I can get a couple weeks this season to see if it's even feasible. Worst case I sell it in the spring or trade to downsize. Right now it's the same price as smaller motors in questionable shape.

 

[racerone]

Those plates are put on when transom is rotten.----See this all the time.

 

[Crosbyman]

check insurance liability coverage if you overpower the boat incl. what they may consider negligence if the transom gives way ...

 

[airshot]

Movement means very little when checking for a good transom. Your biggest issue is, you will be totally responsible for all damages even if it isn't your fault !! Once you overpower a watercraft any insurance is canceled and you probably wont find anyone to cover an old trihull anyway. Unless recently rebuilt that boat is rotted out and unsafe and if it were recently rebuilt you would see it. Unfortunately you have an accident waiting to happen, don't risk any innocent lives along with your own.

 

[lent0n]

Well seems like the general consensus is that 120hp is too large and too risky. Which is fine, hoping I'll find something more reasonable. I still don't understand people selling a motor but think someone will pay $1500 if it can't be run.

Again only reason it was even a consideration was because I've seen a few people do it locally, appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

[airshot]

Doesn't mean people are buying at that price, just tryin to sell at that price !!

 

[havoc_squad]

Yeah, plenty of people have delusions of top dollar price for junk.

I refuse to call or send text messages inquiring about listings that have outrageously high prices listed for the boat/engine I am looking for. (Double actual fair market value).

NADA values is a good guideline to go by, as it is close to what insurance companies may likely use to value the items should a claim be filed.

Those that do list them that at extremely high prices are either greedy or they didn't bother to do some basic research which generally means they are not really interesting in actually selling.

This is completely different from high demand raising prices due to short supply.

 

[Chris1956]

For all outboard motors, if you want to determine condition, look at the big ticket items. If they are good, and the price is reasonable for any other repairs, the motor is a good choice.

The big ticket items are compression, gearcase and to a lesser extent, electronics. Electronics become more important for newer motors.

So if she is a carb motor, has good compression, spark and the gear oil is obviously used, but is clean, the motor is probably a good one.

For 4 cycle, DI and newer motors, the fuel injection is very important, so beside the compression and spark tests, a running test is a good idea. A water test is a better idea.

A clean motor is nice, but I plan to run 'em, not look at them.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

where are you located? the difference between the weight of a 3cyl 50-75hp motor and a v4 looper is right around 140 lbs, not 300.

 

[lent0n]

Doesn't mean people are buying at that price, just tryin to sell at that price !!

Yeah I worked in a pawn shop for a long time. Very familiar with the game. I miss living in the sticks because everything was cheap or a trade.

 

[lent0n]

Yeah, plenty of people have delusions of top dollar price for junk.

I refuse to call or send text messages inquiring about listings that have outrageously high prices listed for the boat/engine I am looking for. (Double actual fair market value).

NADA values is a good guideline to go by, as it is close to what insurance companies may likely use to value the items should a claim be filed.

Those that do list them that at extremely high prices are either greedy or they didn't bother to do some basic research which generally means they are not really interesting in actually selling.

This is completely different from high demand raising prices due to short supply.

Yeah I've gauged across a pretty broad area to understand pricing a bit better. Theres outliers but most are still cheaper than used marine shops. Still looks like 1500-2000 will get something that runs and has a reasonable service background. The hp seems irrelevant which mirrors my experience in buying motorcycles

 

[lent0n]

For all outboard motors, if you want to determine condition, look at the big ticket items. If they are good, and the price is reasonable for any other repairs, the motor is a good choice.

The big ticket items are compression, gearcase and to a lesser extent, electronics. Electronics become more important for newer motors.

So if she is a carb motor, has good compression, spark and the gear oil is obviously used, but is clean, the motor is probably a good one.

For 4 cycle, DI and newer motors, the fuel injection is very important, so beside the compression and spark tests, a running test is a good idea. A water test is a better idea.

A clean motor is nice, but I plan to run 'em, not look at them.

Having done a full electrical rebuild I can say that I'm pretty particular on the condition. One frayed rectifier wire cost me 5 weeks of a season and $800 in parts (damaged stator, blown pack, cracked coils). Clean mainly just says someone has taken care of it, or it was recently in a shop. But I agree, compression, normal gear oil, spark, all that's required.

 

[lent0n]

where are you located? the difference between the weight of a 3cyl 50-75hp motor and a v4 looper is right around 140 lbs, not 300.

I'm checking dry weight online. My 3cyl was set at 238 and the 120hp was at 308 I believe.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

I'm checking dry weight online. My 3cyl was set at 238 and the 120hp was at 308 I believe.

120hp is 364 lbs. basically same as a V6 60 degree eagle motor, which really puts things into perspective hehe. have a DT150 Suzuki that weighs as much as a 2.7/3.0 looper at 450lbs. but to be fair the suzuki is a 2.7.