Locating where water is coming into bilge

[cantdrive55]

I've recently taken ownership (and maintenance) of my late father's 1992 Sea Ray 220 SR with a Mercruiser 5.7 and Alpha One Gen II. It has 283 hours on it and it's always been one of his prized possessions. He last had it serviced in Sept '15 with a general service and winterization. It then sat in a storage barn covered until I trailered it down to Texas last month. I did a lookover and inspection of the main things that I am aware of maintenance/mechanically and didn't see anything glaring. Engine oil, outdrive oil, fuel/water separator, and oil filter all appear to have been replaced during winterizing, and although the fuel still smelled ok, I drained the fuel tank out of caution. Turned motor over by hand and it was nice and free. Put the ear muffs on and engine started right up, came up to temp no problem, good oil pressure, things all looked and sounded like the day he stored it last.

With things running well, we took it out Saturday and launched it. We had two issues come up, an inline trim pump fuse blew, and water was making its way into the bilge. The fuse I'm not too worried about (now that I've got a spare 5 pack sitting in the toolbox), but I can't seem to find where the water is entering. The bellows look good from a visual inspection but after sitting 3+ years in the up trailer position I could understand something not being too happy about being lowered.

The inflow didn't seem to be super fast, but the bilge float kicked the pump on 3 times in the 2hrs we were out. I'd rather get this taken care of before we try and go out again, but unsure of ways to check it out while on dry ground. Some sort of way to pressurize the area or flood it with a hose?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Best to remove the drive and start inspecting from there. If main bellows are dry inspect the shift cable bellow for tears,holes.

 

[biggjimm]

Mine had a small leak when I first got it. It too had sit for several years. I checked everything out & all seemed OK but it ended up having a 3/8" hole in the shift cable bellows that couldn't be easily seen.

One day while sitting at the beach letting the kids play, I heard water running after a couple of them climbed up onto the swim platform. After careful inspection with a small mirror and a flashlight I finally found water running in around the shift cable bellows.
Good luck with it.
Jim

 

[Scott Danforth]

being a 26 year old boat, could be many things.

however back boat on trailer into water, get into bilge with flashlights, mirrors and your camera phone and look.....find where the water is coming in

 

[biggjimm]

Google Android or apple bore scope or endoscope. It's a HD snake cam attachment for your cell phone for under $20. It's only like 7mm in diameter & can get in just about anywhere. You can snap pics or video & it has an adjustable light & some other attachments.
It's been a really handy tool to have.
Jim.

 

[cantdrive55]

Was finally able to get back to the lake and test again yesterday, looks like its coming around the transom mount. Tried to tighten up the bolts on the transom plate and they started to suck into the transom. So unfortunately looks like rot. Didn't have a hammer with me, but in a bit of tapping with a screwdriver, it doesn't sound like it's the entire transom, maybe only 1-3" around the outdrive. Primarily below and on the starboard side.

So I guess it's time to start looking at a bit of an overhaul. Although I consider myself mechanically inclined, I don't think this is a job I'd tackle myself. Any rough estimates on cost in the Austin area?

 

[Rick Stephens]

I doubt that a guestimate is worth anything until a thorough inspection is done. It would be very unusual to have just a small area around the keyhole of the transom rotted. Much more likely that if there is rot there, then there is rot lower down in the stringers as well. Guessing you a cost would be pure fantasy.

Best method for testing is to take a drill and start drilling holes into wood, seeing if the chips come out soggy, dry, or old mushy crap. Test holes are easy to fill. And every time you find a problem, you just extend your test area until you have a pretty good idea of how much wood needs replacing. Start at the transom, then go up the stringers into and past motor mounts. Once you know how far the rot extends, then you can get guestimates on costs.

Rick

 

[kenny nunez]

Sometimes a boat that has been stored properly indoors gets eaten by carpenter ants. They can really be destructive.
Look real close to see if there are any tiny bugs present. If the transom is the only problem it may be just rot as Rick said.
Ask around at the local boat launch who does reasonable transom repairs. Also go to some of the established “MOM & POP” stern drive shops not the dealership/stealerships. Locally a transom job runs around $2500.00-$3000.00 here in the New Orleans area. Hopefully that is all you will need.
Try to seal off the storage areas to keep the fiberglass dust out otherwise you will be itching all over when you get the boat back. Ask if the fiberglass shop throughly cleans the boat before delivery.
At least your dad knew the boat was going to a good home.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Time to drill some test holes. The knock test is pretty much worthless unless you have a highly trained ear. Even then, I’d put more stock in results from core samples.

 

[Bondo]

The knock test is pretty much worthless unless you have a highly trained ear. Even then,

Ayuh,.... I believe it to be BS,....