Link & Sync 1990 15Hp Evinrude

OptsyEagle

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So this motor is new to me and I don't have a manual. I am looking at the carb sync to the throttle cam and I would appreciate any advice on how to sync this up correctly. On the throttle cam there is a line of plastic at the portside of the throttle cam. I am assuming the idea is to get that line to be in the middle of the carb's roller just as it touches the throttle cam, when I turn the twist grip to add gas. Mine seems to be a little to the portside of the roller just as it touches so I was thinking about tweaking it.

So I am wondering. Do I simply adjust the screw on the cam follower assembly (on the carb) or do I adjust the screw on the throttle cam. I would think the carb follower screw would be best, but to be honest I have no idea what the screw on the throttle cam would adjust.

Anyone have some knowledge with this model that could shed some light on this. It would be appreciated.
 

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909

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Typically there is a preliminary adjustment

Followed by adjusting the cam follower pickup point

Then adjust for wide open throttle

Maximum spark advance

Then idle speed adjustment

PM me for some documents


sync1.jpg

Sync2.jpg
 
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OptsyEagle

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That is a lot of steps. I will have to print that out and take it to the motor to figure out that preliminary stuff. The youngest motor I worked on before was a 1976 Evinrude so this one seems to have added some new stuff.

The thing that baffles me on this motor is when I adjust the screw on the cam roller, pushing it as far towards the throttle cam as I can, the line on the throttle cam is still a little to the portside of that carb roller when the throttle starts to open. Secondly, when I turn the twist grip the other way, to reduce throttle, where the twist grip stops, that line is still to the portside of the carb roller and is not touching it either. In other words even if I could push the carb roller forward more, which I can't, that line would still be a little to the right of the roller (portside of the roller) when looking directly at it, because I can't turn the twist grip anymore to get that line centered to the roller, let alone touch it.

I don't know if the twist grip is stopping due to some idle stop or something else or if this is normal. Where the twist grip stops when reducing throttle is pretty close to the starting line on the tiller. I am not sure if that is right or not either. The guy I got the motor from started it up in a barrel and it seem to idle OK the way it is, but I don't think it's carb is set up properly to the throttle cam.
 

racerone

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These things normally do not go out of adjustment.----Be careful if you decide to experiment !
 

OptsyEagle

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Sure. It's a 32 year old motor and the carburetor on it is not original so I suspect I am not the first one to touch it.

In any case my last question is if it seems right that I can not get the line on the throttle cam to move into the middle of the carb roller by turning the twist grip. The twist grip just won't turn enough (reducing throttle) to do that, let alone have that throttle cam touch the roller at the same time. That does not sound right to me but perhaps I am missing something.
 

racerone

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Turned the knob ( idle stop ) on the end of tiller handle ?------Just picked up a clean looking 92 model 15 HP yesterday.-----Apparently a scored cylinder.----Some folks still baffled on mixing gas and oil I think.------Or maybe it never had an impeller replaced.----Be an easy fix , have all the parts including new pistons on hand.
 

OptsyEagle

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Turned the knob ( idle stop ) on the end of tiller handle ?
Not sure what you are saying. Should I turn the knob at the end of the tiller handle. Is that some kind of throttle stop and will that give the throttle cam line more room to move into the center of the carb roller? Which way do I turn it? Clockwise or counter clockwise.
 

racerone

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Just looked at that 92 model and an 89 model.------Both have a knob you can turn.-----Turn one way and if that does not seem right then turn the other way !
 

OptsyEagle

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So I think I might have found the overall problem with my carb roller not syncing with the throttle cam. I think my roller might be missing an outer ring on that would allow it to come closer to the cam . When comparing the one on my motor to a picture of a new one it appears the new ones have some kind of ring that takes up the space of the black plastic material above and below it. The reason I did not see this issue is because I have another broken 9.9Hp carb, for the same motor and it also is missing this ring material for the roller. What are the odds of that?

Since this must be a fairly common problem has anyone come up with a jerry rig solution to this using duck tape or some kind of o-ring, heat shrink material or am I going to have to either replace it with a new cam follower or live with it?
 

racerone

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Very common for those to be missing. ----Many ways to fix that.---Build it up with tape.----Split piece of plastic pipe.------Make one from plastic / wood.-----Or simply buy ( $22.58 ) a new roller follower assembly.
 

909

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I recently purchased one for $20. It's so inexpensive that I wouldn't jerry rig it.

Make sure you install it with the solid side of the cam roller pointing down.

The top should look hollow, otherwise it won't sit flush with the pin.
 
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racerone

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Just picked up a 1992 Evinrude 15 HP very clean looking low hrs motor.---Had that outer part of the roller missing.-----Just one scored piston , possibly due to overheating.---Likely find a bad original impeller.-----Easy rebuild here..
 

909

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Just picked up a 1995 15 HP Evinrude Estart over the weekend as well .

Nothing is missing except a start button, and the pin on the transom clamp to adjust the trim.

The 1993 15 HP Johnson I picked up last week was also missing the outer part of the roller.
 

OptsyEagle

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OK. So I decided to jerry rig my carb roller just to be able to test run this motor on my boat before I buy a new cam follower for it. In case anyone wants to do this I found 1/2" pex pipe almost perfect for the inner material to replace what was on the carb roller originally. The outer diameter of the pex pipe was perfect and I ground down the inner diameter about 0.020" with a dremel tool with a stone grinder. I had to cut the pex pipe lengthwise to get it on the carb roller but I used one layer of duct tape to make sure it does not come apart. Works well.

I was then able to do the link and sync and adjust the throttle cam for wide open throttle as well.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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OptsyEagle

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So I ran the motor on my boat and it operated very well. This is a converted 9.9Hp with a 15Hp carb and I would say that it ran much faster then any 9.9Hp I ever had on this boat. Anyway, the only problem with the motor, and it is a small one, is when I am running it and remove my hand from the tiller, the steering stays on the same trajectory BUT the speed slowly reduces. It is not abrupt but if I want to run at a fast speed I have to keep my hand on the tiller fairly solidly. My other motors (1976) had a friction block in the tiller that kept the speed constant but I am not sure how this model (1990) does it, if it does it at all.

In this diagram it shows part #40 a "throttle friction control, sel. models only" and a "throttle control plate, except sel. models".


Here are two pictures of the tiller arm I have. I don't see a "throttle friction control" so I don't know how to tighten up this throttle control. Would anyone know how to do this?
 

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flyingscott

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The knob the red button sticks out of can be turned. It is a throttle lock for trolling, if it is turned it will keep the idle high or low.
 
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OptsyEagle

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The knob the red button sticks out of can be turned. It is a throttle lock for trolling, if it is turned it will keep the idle high or low.
I think you are talking about the idle stop control. My problem is when I am running at very high speeds (WOT) the throttle just slows down, if I remove my hand from the twist grip. I can't see how the idle stop control for trolling would prevent this. Does it?
 

flyingscott

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I think you are talking about the idle stop control. My problem is when I am running at very high speeds (WOT) the throttle just slows down, if I remove my hand from the twist grip. I can't see how the idle stop control for trolling would prevent this. Does it?
In the owners manual for my dad's 92 15 hp that is called a throttle lock. It locks the throttle in place for trolling speeds.
 
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