Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Barracuda101

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I have a 1990 evinrude 140. I'm still having a problem getting The trim motor out. I have an attachment that bolts to the flywheel to lift the motor off. but I don't know the screw size for the three screws or the thread count on them.

Thanks,
Brady
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

it takes a grade 8 hardened bolts, but size i don't know off hand. yes it is the best way to lift it.
 

Chris1956

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Brady, My '98 150HO Johnny has two cast in hooks in the block for lifting the motor. One is starboard rear of the flywheel and the other port front of the starter.
 

Barracuda101

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

I have an engine hoist with boom fully extended its rated at a 1/2 ton that should be enough? How much does this motor weigh?
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

your motor weighs 370 lbs.
 

HighTrim

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Barracuda, you do not HAVE to remove the motor to access the trim motor. I mean, it is much easier, but also more work than needed. You could always just support the motor with the crane, remove the port side stern bracket, slide it to the left, disconnect the steering, and that should leave enough room to slide the TNT unit out. A few less things to put back together.
 

samo_ott

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Did I read this correct that you can lift the entire 370 lb motor by the flywheel? Seems a bit rash and extreme as there's usually lifting eyes. I wouldn't be keen on doing that to any of my engines albeit they're all a lot smaller.
 

flabum

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Did I read this correct that you can lift the entire 370 lb motor by the flywheel? Seems a bit rash and extreme as there's usually lifting eyes. I wouldn't be keen on doing that to any of my engines albeit they're all a lot smaller.

That is the way most outboards are lifted. (except the newer ones)
 

HighTrim

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

I have lifted the power head from the exhuast housing by threading the lifting eye into a universal puller mounted on the flywheel. ALthough when I pull the entire motor, I usually at least drop the lower, although I dont think you would need to , most guys lift their motors this way quite frequently.
 

samo_ott

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Wow. I just can't see that being any good on the crank!
 

guy74

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

My factory manual say to lift the engine by the flywheel, with the proper fixture, if there is no lifting lug provided on top of the block. I know that Mercury motors have used an eyelet that screws into the top of the crank for years. The older V4 johny/rudes had a lifting lug behind the flywheel, but on ones with a water cooled regulator, the regulator is where the the lug was on the others. I guess it was too handy to have a built in lifting point???
 

Johnson110

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

Hmm I like the idea of lifting the motor by the flywheel puller, Is this a safe way to do it, I have a 1986 110 johnson that I have to put back on the boat it does not have a eye ring to lift it, makes no sense to me why they did not out one on it!
 

F_R

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

OMC had an eye-bolt that replaces the pressure bolt in their flywheel puller, intended for lifting engines. The eye-bolt had a pointy end that screwed down against the center drilling of the shaft to keep everything straight and lined up.

I had that one and also another kind, a loop welded to a nut the size of the flywheel nut. Of course with that one you had to first remove the regular nut, 2 seconds with the impact wrench.

I do think they changed things with the V-6, not sure.
 

flabum

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

My factory manual say to lift the engine by the flywheel, with the proper fixture, if there is no lifting lug provided on top of the block. I know that Mercury motors have used an eyelet that screws into the top of the crank for years. The older V4 johny/rudes had a lifting lug behind the flywheel, but on ones with a water cooled regulator, the regulator is where the the lug was on the others. I guess it was too handy to have a built in lifting point???


The V-4's you talk of with the lifting "lug" are not really designed to be lifted by thet "lug". There are only 2 bolts secured to a weak aluminum housing. Lifting them by the flywheel is more adviseable.
OMC has always lifted their bigger engines by the flywheel. Using their tool or any aftermarket tool is advised. The trick about it is that the plate needs to be tight against the flywheel using hardened bolts. If the plate is loose, then you can end up putting uneven stress on the bolts and possibly shearing them. The OMC tool has builtin bolts. It also has a female thread in it designed to lift their V-* outboards with the flywheel off. The lifting eye screws directly onto the crankshaft.
 

guy74

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

The V-4's you talk of with the lifting "lug" are not really designed to be lifted by thet "lug". There are only 2 bolts secured to a weak aluminum housing. Lifting them by the flywheel is more adviseable.

I agree that the lifting lug on the 1981 90hp motor that I work on doesn't look like much, but that is how the factory manual says to lift it. I do know that the lug on the engine will pick up the engine and the rearend of the boat with no problems. Don't ask how I know, please. As far as the strength on that lifting lug, one must remember an outboard motor doesn't weigh very much 300-500lbs. We lift 4000lb diesel motors in and out of equipment everyday with fixtures that only bolt to the motor with 4-3/8 inch bolts, and that is a factory CAT fixture.
Sincerely,
Brian
 
Last edited:

Willyclay

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

When I got my 1968 Johnson 100hp V-4, one bolt that held the lifting ring was broken off flush with the crankcase boss. Don't know what caused the original problem, but I still have the motor and have hoisted it many times with that attachment after replacing the grade 5 bolt. Getting the old, broken bolt out required a high-quality drill bit and a lot of cutting oil.
 

Lakester

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

but I don't know the screw size for the three screws or the thread count on them.

-------------------

hello,

most early engines will be SAE threads. i am not sure if any metric showed up in later years like in auto industry. if it were mine, i'd:

a) call a marine dealer, ask for service and ask for thread size. they may tell you.

b) i suspect it most likely is 5/16ths course. or close if metric. i doubt it is 3/8 x 18. [course] but it may be.

c) i would also consider going to hardware store. get one size of each. 5/16ths and 3/8s. and metric same size appros. then just thread it in and return what u dont need and get others so fixture will bolt up. before u go to hardware get up close to threaded hole and ck to see if course or fine.

i assume u have no boltsBox? i have a washerBox, nutBox, boltBox, etc. if so, just fit til it goes in. :)

you may not have a tap n die set, but if it wher mine, id first chase the threads, and then a drop or two of oil on bolt.

let us know what thread it is if u pull it by flywheel.

good luck,

regards
lakester :cool:
 

flabum

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

The screw size is 1/4" 28 pitch/
 

Lakester

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Re: Lifting the motor with the fly wheel

hello,

sounds like it is sae fine thread.

1/4" - 28 UNF

so aside from hardness [grade #] numerous sources. just remember if in doubt about the grade size, be sure to ask. mass merchandizer may use chinese bolts, american hardware may know source and grade #s.

good luck

regards
lakestger :cool:
 
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