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- Jul 23, 2011
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Ted, you realize that this thread and the BMW thread make me want to run a magneto ignition and air starter
Coffman starter.Ted, you realize that this thread and the BMW thread make me want to run a magneto ignition and air starter
Why not buy one or two of those aluminum bell light bulb lights. When I had my I/O I used a couple in my doghouse to extend the season before winterizing. Even with only one 100 watt bulb the engine compartment stayed almost 50 degrees when outdoor temp was below 20 degrees. With two bulbs ( in case one went out) my dog house temp was almost 60 degrees when outside was only 10 degrees.I may have to re-think my winterization routine. . .
Perhaps have a way to pump some warm air into the engine bay via the blower/intake vents.
That way, I can force a temperature rise and see if the batteries wake up. I suspect a self heating battery might be better to keep things 'alive' over the winter.
Not being able to raise the engine bay hatch is a real problem, because all of the batteries and electrical stuff is in there.
Also wondering if I should go with a black or dark colored winter cover to absorb some heat from the sun.
Or run a cable from the house Bat outside so a another Bat can be usedPerhaps in the future I may want to store the boat for winter with the engine hatch open.![]()
It may reduce the number of cycles from 3000 to 2000 by storing them full. Personally, I would just store them full.Only charge back up to the recommended storage voltage unless your gonna be using it within the next 24 hrs. Storing at full charge is not healthy for them either.
Cobalts come with some lugs in one of the cockpit storage area that you can attach a battery charger or power supply that allows you to charge the batteries without raising the hatch. I would do something similar...or even just an Anderson connector to do the same.Keeping my fingers crossed that I can get the batteries to 'wake up' with some heat into the engine bay. My main problem/concern is that the large (heavy) engine hatch, which is basically the rear seat assembly, runs off of the house battery (LiFePO4) bank. Having that bank shut itself off will be a problem, if it does not readily come back on.
Perhaps in the future I may want to store the boat for winter with the engine hatch open.![]()
Ted, can always have a diode isolated power feed to the actuator and switch(s) that has a Deutsch DT series connector. then make up a pigtail connector with alligator clips or a cigarette outlet plugI'll need to take a look at the wiring diagrams that I have for the boat. There is an extra switch for raising the engine hatch that I have not figured out (yet). Although it may have something to do with using the engine batteries as an alternate power source. (hoping . . . )
Otherwise, I'll have to come up with something to get power to the engine hatch actuator when the house battery bank is sleeping.
geo metro 1.3 liter with a 5-speed weighs less than the bank of batteries..... just sayin'I was thinking about some LiFePO batteries for the golf cart ... but it gets operated at temps below 40, so I guess that is out of the question.
I remember the first time I saw one of those, this girl I knew had one. I had a '74 Dart Sport with a 318. My battery was about the same size as the engine block.....geo metro 1.3 liter with a 5-speed weighs less than the bank of batteries..... just sayin'
LiFePO4 batteries can operate down to 0F. You just can't charge them below 32F unless they have internal heaters which many do.I was thinking about some LiFePO batteries for the golf cart ... but it gets operated at temps below 40, so I guess that is out of the question.
They should be working already if they are actually going to work. Did you put a power supply or charger on them? I have my low temp cutoff set at 4F. Any temp higher than that and they should output.The LFP batteries are sitting at about 36˚F, so maybe the heat of the day will get them into the 40˚F range, where they should come to life. We'll see.![]()