Let a "Mechanic" touch it...now it won't start??

[emoney]

Ok, so to bring you up-to-speed, I got down to where only 1 cylinder was
firing. Determined it was more than likely an issue under the fly wheel.
Since I don't have a fly wheel puller, and I"ve never done it, I took a recommendation
from a neighbor and went to a mechanic to have him do it. We already knew
that the coils were working, although they needed replaced because both of
them were cracked (looked to be original). He happened to have 2 coils that
fit it because he recently bought out an older Chrysler Mechanic. Great, because
he sold them to me for $60.00 apiece, which I thought was fair. He pulls the
flywheel, and sure enough, I've got one bad condensor, which is what I had
assumed. He replaced that and now we've got spark all around. However,
now that he's put it back together, he can't get it started? (He called me so
I haven't seen it yet). Before I took it there, it was running on one cylinder
so I know there wasn't a fuel issue as I had gone through the fuel system (hoping
that was the initial problem). As a matter of fact, it ran really well on one
cylinder. However, now they can't get it started at all? Any suggestions as
to what's being overlooked? Could this be a timing issue and if so, what could
they have done to cause it? Help me, as I'm very limited in knowledge as
most of you know.

Oh, btw, for memory sake, it's a 1983 50hp, model 507H3D. Thanks.

 

[MostlyHrmlss]

Re: Let a "Mechanic" touch it...now it won't start??

You may be on to something with the timing. Assuming you have fuel and spark, maybe the spark is in the wrong place at the right time? Static time it and make sure that #1 is firing near TDC, not #2. Could just be some erroneous wiring.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Let a "Mechanic" touch it...now it won't start??

First go back to basics: ASSUME NOTHING! Pull the plugs, and replace them with new, Gapped about .030-032. Crank it over and check for spark--bright blue, not weak yellow. If the spark is present and good, put about a teaspoon of pre-mix in each cylinder and replace the plugs. Crank it without choking until it clears itself and fires. If it does not start and run out the prime, then you know the ignition is still not functioning correctly. If it starts and runs out the prime, then you know it is not getting fuel.

If spark is not present, check the under flywheel wiring and the ignition switch. Remember: BLUE goes from ignition switch "I" terminal to pos coils. White or other color goes from neg coils to points. When points close, current flows through coils and builds up magnetic field. When points open, current stops and field collapses inducing high voltage in secondary. Condensers absorb the voltage surge when points open and keep points from arcing. If condensers are improperly grounded or shorted, points will also be grounded and no spark will happen.

Knowing that the coils fire when the points open, now you can ascertain that the correct set of points is firing the correct coil (timing not 180 degrees off)

Oh, BTW: The cam is NOT symmetrical. If the cam was removed make sure the arrow (if present) is UP and pointing in direction of crankshaft rotation. If no arrow, check to see that the cam is set so that in the direction of rotation, there is a long dwell with the points closed and a short rapid ramp to open them.