Leg query

[sogood]

When fitting the lower leg , after an impeller replacement , is it necessary or advisable to seal the joint between upper and lower sections? Thanks.

 

[Bondo]

Nope,.... Only the quad-ring at the oil port,....

Otherwise, it's water wet on both sides anyways,....

 

[sogood]

What, in layman's terms , is the quad ring at the oil port? Thanks.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... It's the o-ring that surrounds the oil port,...

 

[sogood]

So given that I'm new to all this, what or where is the oil port? I've looked through the relevant section in my manual and can't identify it. And thanks for calling the "quad ring" an o ring. Now I know what it does! Forgive my ignorance and thanks again.

 

[achris]

The oil passage between the upper and lower housing, sealed by that quad ring (its cross section is closer to an 'X' than an 'O'), is on the starboard side of the housing, adjacent to the water pump.

When you go to fill the drive with oil, you must fill from the bottom up. Remove the top 'vent' screw and fill from the bottom hole until it starts to flow out of the top hole. Cap the top hole, then quickly remove the fill hose and cap the bottom hole.

Chris. .....

 

[Bt Doctur]

Look at 6:00
Something tells me without the manual this is going to end badly

 

[achris]

Look at 6:00
Something tells me without the manual this is going to end badly

Pfft... Just a flow restrictor. Can't have too much water going to the engine... :facepalm:

 

[sogood]

Many thanks for the detailed responses. The pictures tell a thousand words. I've changed an impeller in an outboard before but this is slightly different. I have my pump and the process for filling is familiar to me. Thanks again. PS I have the manual but find it to be slightly confusing
Any thoughts on a better one than Seloc?

 

[achris]

...Any thoughts on a better one than Seloc?

Almost anything! Seloc=kneeling pad...

DRIVE manual

Chris.........

BTW. That gasket under the pump base, it's in upside down. It's 90% blocking the water passage on the suction side of the pump... It needs to be pulled apart and turned over so they all line up properly....

 

[Rick Stephens]

Almost anything! Seloc=kneeling pad...

DRIVE manual

Chris.........

BTW. That gasket under the pump base, it's in upside down. It's 90% blocking the water passage on the suction side of the pump... It needs to be pulled apart and turned over so they all line up properly....

Pssst........ the pic is BT Docs to show where the quad ring is.

 

[sogood]

So, I changed the impeller, gaskets, wear plate etc. and had a bit of a struggle getting the leg back into position when refitting. It wouldn't go fully up into the upper section. I figured the splines on the drive shaft weren't properly aligned and so, rotated it a tiny bit, then again and finally the leg went up into position. FWIW, I selected forward gear before dismantling, even though I was only removing the lower leg. Anyway, now the prop clicks when turned clockwise and it refuses to turn counter clockwise at all. This is the same scenario regardless of whether forward, neutral or reverse is selected.

​Having said that, since I bought the boat, I've always found the gear selection very stiff. Perhaps it has never actually been selecting gears. There is some movement at the selector linkage above the engine, but maybe not enough. I think it's time to disconnect the gear linkage and see how the shifter works then and take it from there. Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Thanks for the input to date.

 

[Bondo]

FWIW, I selected forward gear before dismantling, even though I was only removing the lower leg.

Ayuh,..... Regardless whether yer pullin' the entire drive, or just the lower unit,...

Everything has to be in Forward when put back together,...

As for holdin' the drive in forward, I'll tell ya what I do,....

I wrap a rubber bungee strap from the cav-plate, 'round the prop/ shaft, back up to the other side of the cav-plate,....

Then ya twist the shift foot to forward, 'n turn the prop/ shaft, so's the drive ratchets a couple of clicks, puttin' tension on the bungee strap, 'n the shift dogs in the drive, lockin' it into forwards gear,...

Same for just the lower unit,...
I just typed that out in another thread, 'n bein' a single digit typist, I ain't doin' it again,....

 

[sogood]

Thanks for that Bondo. I came across that approach online and it all worked out fine. Bungee, forward gear, align splines etc. and everything went together with no issues. Now my next question. I find the gears rather hard to select, forward or reverse. When pushing it into forward, the shifter went as far as I thought it would go,but the gear wasn't engaged. An extra hard push forward, just a small bit and it was engaged. It's also just as stiff going into reverse. The throttle only aspect works freely.

​I looked through my (seloc) manual and as usual, came away slightly more confused! It talks about "Stern drive shift" and "Remote control cable". Am I to take it that the former is the actual gear selector and the latter is the gear selector mechanism at the engine/stern? The pictures and photos don't do much to clarify things.

​So what's the simplest, most idiot proof method of diagnosing and correcting a stiff gear selector/ cable mechanism. Is there an obvious place to start looking? Thanks for the help to date.

 

[Bondo]

​I looked through my (seloc) manual and as usual, came away slightly more confused! It talks about

Ayuh,.... There's links to the factory manuals, as well an ocean of great info 'bout yer stuff in the link titled Don'S Adults Only Section, in my signature,.....