Re: leaky rivot
Replace the rivet. It is simple if you do a little headwork, which I have already done for you.<br /><br /> Find an industrial supply store somewhere around you. Ask them for a 1/4" CLOSED-END pop rivet. I used an aluminum rivet with a stainless steel mandrel and had excellent results. I replaced over 100 rivets in a Sea Nymph that I was completely rebuilding a few years back and the boat still looks great. No corrosion issues as the boat is trailered. <br /><br /><br /> Follow the directions on how to set the rivet- use the proper size drill bit and do the proper surface prep. The rivets I bought cost me $16 for 50. The rivet gun I bought to set them with ran $40. I still have the set and have replaced a couple dozen leaky rivets in friend's boats since and they love me for that. <br /><br />UFM82<br /><br /> It beats smearing some goop on your hull. The new rivet will polish up just like the originals and will be flush like the originals.
Replace the rivet. It is simple if you do a little headwork, which I have already done for you.<br /><br /> Find an industrial supply store somewhere around you. Ask them for a 1/4" CLOSED-END pop rivet. I used an aluminum rivet with a stainless steel mandrel and had excellent results. I replaced over 100 rivets in a Sea Nymph that I was completely rebuilding a few years back and the boat still looks great. No corrosion issues as the boat is trailered. <br /><br /><br /> Follow the directions on how to set the rivet- use the proper size drill bit and do the proper surface prep. The rivets I bought cost me $16 for 50. The rivet gun I bought to set them with ran $40. I still have the set and have replaced a couple dozen leaky rivets in friend's boats since and they love me for that. <br /><br />UFM82<br /><br /> It beats smearing some goop on your hull. The new rivet will polish up just like the originals and will be flush like the originals.
J.C.