leaky rivot

karma

Cadet
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
26
hi guys, after years of wondering where excess water in the bilge was coming from on my 18' sea nymph, i had it parked on a downward angle in my driveway. at that point i noticed water dripping from a rivot at a pretty good pace. the rivot in question is located almost directly under my console (fishnski) so removing the floor and console is not really an option to get at it. ive asked a few people and am leaning towards cutting a hole in the floor to be able to get at the rivot and replacing it with an access panel. seems like a pretty big task as i would need at least a 6 inch hole to be able to get my hand through it. any other suggestions?? i have a neighbor that is a professional welder, is aluminum welding an option? ive heard its so thin that i could be asking for trouble. thanks for all your responses
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: leaky rivot

You can use a product called "Gluv It" on either side. It works best from the inside but is not necessary to apply from the inside.<br /><br />It's availble at:<br /><br /><br />www.westmarine.com
 

Luna Sea

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 20, 2002
Messages
1,070
Re: leaky rivot

Hi karma,<br /><br />It doesn't sound like the boats in danger of sinking. Unless you're trying to sell it for top dollar, I'd just slap some JB Weld on there, or some Marine Tex. And wait till you have a whole bunch of leaky rivets before pulling floor or cutting holes in the hull.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: leaky rivot

brush some marine-tex around the rivet head with a small artists brush to leave a nice fillet around the head without making a mess.
 

BoatBuoy

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
4,856
Re: leaky rivot

Re-buck if you can get to it. Hammer head on the inside, a few good whacks with another hammer on the outside tightens up many rivets. That would be my first option.
 

karma

Cadet
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
26
Re: leaky rivot

i cannot get to it without drilling an access panel in the floor. sounds like marine tex might be the answer. anyone have any info on temporary rivots that go in from the outside?? i talked with one boat dealer (wont mention names) and they told me that when they were experiencing numerous problems with new boat hull rivots leaking the manufacurer supplied them with a rubber style rivot that was a temporary fix that seemed to hold up well.
 

Terry H

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 25, 2001
Messages
1,862
Re: leaky rivot

karma, I've repaired a couple of rivits by drilling them out and replacing with 1/2"x8 ss roundhead screws coated with 5200. Clean off the excess caulk and wait a couple of days to go. Noone has complained, so I think it works. :)
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: leaky rivot

Re-buck if you can get to it.
Alum. rivets are work-hardened when bucked the first time....they will not hold properly when driven a second time. If access was possible, drilling out and replacing would be the best option.
 

BoatBuoy

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
4,856
Re: leaky rivot

walleyehed,<br />I don't have experience with bucking rivets, but the folks on the aluminum repair board seem to have some degree of success with it. I defer to your experience as maring tech and aircraft mechanic/pilot. If however, it were easy to get to, I'd be tempted to give it a rap or two. Karma's doesn't look easy to get to though. Drilling and replacing would absolutely be the best option, if accessible.
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,448
Re: leaky rivot

I had a large alum boat and the best way of repairing a leaky or seeping rivet is to clean it off good and wipe with acetone and apply 5200 sealant to it.Try forcing some into any gap and leave a coin size dab over the rivet.Then coat your finger with saliva and smooth it over.If the rivet is in worse shape than just leaking or seeping it is best to replace with a high quality ss nut,bolt and washer.You want to drill out the old rivet and coat the inside and outside with coin sized dabs of 5200 and let cure.Then drill a small pilot hole in the 5200 and screw in the bolt with a washer on it and put a nut with another washer on it.Make sure the 5200 is larger than the washer to isolate it from reacting and make sure the bolt is smaller than the hole,smaller than you would usually use.You will have a 5200 sandwich and no reaction from the ss and aluminum and it will be a permanent repair.Charlie
 

phatmanmike

Captain
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
3,869
Re: leaky rivot

gluvit.jpg
<br /><br />Gluvit is an epoxy waterproof sealer best known for sealing leaks in aluminum boats. For hidden leaks,cracks annoying drips, leaking rivets and seams on all types of watercraft. This products stops leaks in cabin roofs, decks, hatches and on the entire hull surface of fiberglass and aluminum boats. This products can be painted over or pigmented. One coat is 10 mils thick. Also used as a barrier coat for copper bottomed paints. May be thinned. Pot life is 1-2 hours depending on atmospheric temperatures. One gallon covers approximately 100-125 square feet.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: leaky rivot

Mike, is the Gluvit flexible when cured????<br />I've never used it due to access to pro-seal aircraft sealer first-hand. The pro-seal is around 50.00 a quart. Hows the Gluvit on price?
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: leaky rivot

link doesn't work for me, DJ.<br />I'll do a search. What do you know about the flex properties of this product???
 

umblecumbuz

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
Messages
1,062
Re: leaky rivot

Quote from Crazy
Make sure the 5200 is larger than the washer to isolate it from reacting
This electrolysis thing is a hobby horse of mine, because so many people get it wrong. The stainless will react with the aluminum whether it's isolated or not. The connection between the two is the water itself, which is the electrolyte, or conductor. <br /><br />The cure is in understanding the purpose of sacrificial anodes. If a swim ladder or trim tab ot any other immersed metal accessory is not individually protected with an anode (zinc), then it will potentially accelerate the corrosion of your main asset - your expensive outboard or outdrive leg.<br /><br />If your outboard zinc is getting eaten away fast, it may be the other accessories (as above) that are causing it. If your anode is whitish-looking, it's not working as well as it could, and unless you clean off the oxide layer you're headed for potential corrosion troubles. Often the corrosion happens INSIDE the leg, where there is no paint protection, and the first you know about it is when your paint bubbles and the metal underneath is soft and crumbly.<br /><br />Better to fit anodes to your trim tabs or swim ladder - but how often do you see this in practice?<br /><br />I said more than I intended, but as I say - this is a bit of a thing with me! Sorry Crazy!
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,448
Re: leaky rivot

Stillfishin,the method I described is proven to work without any ill effect.I owned a 25 foot aluminum cabin cruiser for 5 years and had to replace a bunch of rivets before she ever hit the water with me as the new owner.I did a good amount of research before I did the rivet replacement.Even with this being a hobby of yours,you are confusing 2 different reactions.Electrolysis is a result of stray current in the water.Galvanic reaction is the flow of electrons when 2 dissimilar metals are mated together.Add water to the combination and a galvanic reaction is greatly accelerated.No stray current needed for this one.Isolating and insulating as I described to Karma will eliminate any galvanic reaction.If there is also stray current and all dissimilar metals are isolated from each other,then there will be no reaction on the hull.As I stated ,my experience was research,trial,and error.My method done correctly as described WILL work.Charlie
 

umblecumbuz

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
Messages
1,062
Re: leaky rivot

Crazy,<br /><br />Without wanting to start a war, I beg to differ. <br /><br />Galvanic action takes place when two dissimilar metals are in proximity to each other while in the presence of an electrolyte. And here’s where many people get confused. THEY DON’T HAVE TO BE IN PHYSICAL CONTACT. In this case, the dissimilar metals are a stainless steel bolt and an aluminum hull. The thing that links them together is the electrolyte – the water they sit in. When they are in physical contact the corrosion is often more evident because it occurs mostly at the point of contact – ie. on the aluminum around the head of the bolt - which is no doubt why you advised, correctly, that the bolt and hull be isolated from each other.<br /><br />Fortunately the stainless bolt is small, and the aluminum hull is big by comparison, and also – hopefully – Karma has an anode fixed to his outboard leg. The size difference between the two metals, and the anode itself, will minimise corrosion, but will not stop it happening. Maybe you kept your anodes in good shape which is why you didn’t see any corrosion when you had your aluminum craft. <br /><br />Electrical current flows all the time a boat is in the water, and any two dissimilar metals are affected, with the least noble (see tables of noble metals, giving a run-down of corrosion susceptibilities) being ‘sacrificed’. That is why I said that any accessories, like swim ladders, can add to the potential corrosion in your expensive outboard leg even if there is no physical contact. Current flows from the leg to the swim ladder, and even if the swim ladder doesn’t suffer, the leg does – unless its anode is kept in good shape.<br /><br />Unfortunately, two things work against us here – first, the saltier or more brackish the water, the more sunshine it gets, and the more your boat moves through it, the greater the corrosive potential. Pity really, cos we all like warm water, sunshine and fast boats!<br /><br />And second, how many anodes do you see that are half eaten away or have whitish deposits? As the anode gets smaller its effectiveness decreases. The whitish deposits – oxides – act as a barrier to its sacrificial duties. Answer? Clean anodes frequently, with a file if necessary – and replace them when they’re half gone.<br /><br />You can see I’ve really got a thing about them!<br /><br />Ciao
 

karma

Cadet
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
26
Re: leaky rivot

is it safe to assume that because i only operate in freshwater (wisconsins a long way from the ocean) i need not worry about an anode rod??
 

phatmanmike

Captain
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
3,869
Re: leaky rivot

gluv it is flexible. i have the ENTIRE bottom of one of my 14 feet aluminum boats coated with ot, and also the sides too. it flexes a lot, and still seals like a gem. <br /><br />its basically a modified epoxy with built in aluminum etching agents built in. its real thick and goopy when you use it, and most people advise to put it on the INSIDE of the boat, as its is sorta unsightly on the outside, but i didnt care. whatever works!<br /><br />i swear by it !
 

umblecumbuz

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
Messages
1,062
Re: leaky rivot

Karma,<br /><br />To answer your question - yes, fresh water or sea water, you need the protection of sacrificial anodes. Skimp on them and regret it at leisure.<br /><br />For your leak, I agree with the posts above - Gluvit or similar.<br /><br />Ciao
 
Top