Leaky Lower Unit?

[Mas]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Sorry you have to go through all of this...what a costly pain!

I'm still thinking you had the wrong seal sent to you. I just cannot imagine any seal "popping" out without direct force...unless the housing seat was very worn. Any sign of that?

Mas

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

The housing looked ok after I got it all cleaned out and all of the other seals were nice and tight and fit perfectly. I'm not sure how or why, but I honestly think I just never seated it fully in the first place :/ I actually tapped the seal into place after I got the housing cleaned out just to test it out and it fit like a glove, so much so that I had to use my seal puller to get it out, as per usual. Thankfully, I got an extremely good deal on the gear set, so it's not going to be as bad as it could've been. I'm still not sure what set off the initial clutch dog issue, but I think it was independent of the loose oil seal issue. When it rains (or leaks) it pours, I suppose. Either way, I should end up with essentially a new LU when it's all said and done. I've rebuilt the carb and ignition, etc... already and she runs great. She just won't "go" at the moment, but the old girl should be good as new once the LU is all buttoned up.

 

[AlTn]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

kfa...the locating pins or dowels < brp no. 0300611 > I've always assumed were just a press fit? Maybe heat that area some, then invert that half of the gear housing and rap it some with a plastic faced hammer or the handle of a screwdriver enough to get a piece to grab onto and pull it the remainder of the way out? It seems OMC wouldn't have used them if locating and holding the bearing in that position weren't important. Might be best to wait on an opinion based on more experience.

 

[Mas]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Btw.......I noticed that one of the little pins that holds the propshaft bearing in place is worn down flush with the gear case housing. My plan was to try to very carefully remove it by drilling it out and then replacing it with a new, SS pin of appropriate size. Does that sound ok, or should I just leave it be? Thanks again for all the help.

I have not done it...I've heard drilling those out are almost impossible to get straight without the bit wandering and messing up the housing. A trick I just learned from this forum is to drill from the external side of the housing with a much smaller bit than the pin diameter...then tap it toward the bearing side with a broken drill bit or something similar. When the pin is removed, just fill the drill hole with JB Weld or similar and tap in a new pin to proper height and a little sanding. Again, I have not done it, just heard a lot of issues with trying to drill those pins out.

You gotta have that pin!

Mas

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

In truth, that pin doesn't have to be on center - just drill another hole just to the side and install a new pin. Make sure the old one is flush with the housing as it can put pressure on the bearing and cause a wear spot if it is raised up from the machined surface.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Cool idea Chinewalker. If I understand you correctly, you're saying I can just drill a new hole slightly to one side or the other of the old pin, rotate the gear bearing accordingly such that the hole in the bearing aligns with the new pin and correct? Should I set the new pin in JB weld, or is a nice tight dry fit ok? Where do y'all suppose I can get a small piece of SS rod like that anyway? Can I use a SS nail, or something and cut/file it to shape as needed? Thanks again.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Yes, just offset it a bit, right or left. Might be able to use a waterpump pin... If it's a snug fit, it shouldn't need any goo to hold it in place. Its only job is to keep the bearing from spinning...

 

[AlTn]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

What the heck beats or wears them done in the first place?...kinda wondered the first time I noticed it

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

I'm not sure what set it all off. When I resealed the LU a few months ago, all was well with the gears and dog. I've taken the boat about half a dozen times since then without issue until one day it started slip out of gear with classic worn clutch dog symptoms. I checked the LU and there was no oil in the LU at all, so I'm sure that didn't help. I also tried to squeeze one more trip out of the motor after refilling the LU with oil, which didn't help either. Those factors combined with the worn bearing pin all combined to kill the LU (I think). I would like to find a way to get a better, more solid gear shift in the future. My old '66 33 hp had the detent mechanism and it would put and hold the motor in gear very well, but my current '66 20 hp and my old '61 10 hp do not have the detent mechanism and so don't seem to stay in gear quite as well.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Re: Leaky Lower Unit? Now turnned complete LU rebuild. Need parts.

Typically, the only way the pin can get pushed in is if the bearing is installed incorrectly - with the hole (or slot, depending on the style) misaligned over the pin. If the bearing were to freeze to the gear, it would either shear the pin or mash the bronze of the bearing - it wouldn't just push it in.