Leaky boat. 99 smokercraft 150 stinger

[JimDirt]

So I got out finally for an extended period yesterday. My boat took on 3 gallons of water in 6 hours. I put the plug in it today and put some water in the hull until it was at least 4" deep at the back and the only leak I saw was right here. One drop every 8 seconds. So, is there an easy fix for that?

 

[FloatingAMT]

Is that a riveted aluminum hull? I see what looks like rivet heads. If so, you can use an aluminum-compatible sealant once you find the source. I don't recommend Silicone as the acid in it will attack aluminum over time. There are other flexible, non-acidic sealants that are made for aluminum. you just have to find the source of the leak and get as much sealant in or around it as possible, without having too much to peal off under speed. If its around a rivet or seam resetting or replacing the rivets will fix it, but that requires a rivet gun, sets and someone to hold a bucking bar. I'm currently trying to find an elusive leak in a fiberglass hull bowrider Inboard/outboard. Good Luck.

 

[sublauxation]

Gulvit is the one everyone used to talk about here, I think most applied it from the inside, not sure if it will work as well on the outside? If I'm looking at your picture right that's a second piece of aluminum riveted over the hull for strength so it's possible the water is leaking further forward and running all the way to the back between the 2 pieces of aluminum?

I put some 5200 on a couple small transom holes ea10 yrs ago. I actually applied it under the water line while floating at the boat ramp but it seems to have cured anyways and hasn't leaked a drop.

 

[JimDirt]

Is that a riveted aluminum hull? I see what looks like rivet heads. If so, you can use an aluminum-compatible sealant once you find the source. I don't recommend Silicone as the acid in it will attack aluminum over time. There are other flexible, non-acidic sealants that are made for aluminum. you just have to find the source of the leak and get as much sealant in or around it as possible, without having too much to peal off under speed. If its around a rivet or seam resetting or replacing the rivets will fix it, but that requires a rivet gun, sets and someone to hold a bucking bar. I'm currently trying to find an elusive leak in a fiberglass hull bowrider Inboard/outboard. Good Luck.

Ya, it's riveted. I took a razor blade and cut the protruding gasket or whatever it was and cleaned out the groove a bit, took a wire wheel and cleaned of the paint and put some JB Weld in the crack. I took the boat out yesterday for only a couple of hours and I had a little water when I got home, but that may have been residual from when I was looking for the leak. I guess a 24 year old riveted boat is bound to leak a tiny bit somewhere? With a properly functioning bilge pump I don't think it's anything to worry about. Last weekend when I took on 3 gallons, I could hear the bilge pump run, but no water came out so I didn't look to see if I had taken on water. After checking out the pump, it will pump water if I take the hose off. I blew the hose out with compressed air and it still won't pump out the hose. I think the pump is worn out and won't push any pressure. IDK, not sure, but a new pump is on order.

 

[JimDirt]

Gulvit is the one everyone used to talk about here, I think most applied it from the inside, not sure if it will work as well on the outside? If I'm looking at your picture right that's a second piece of aluminum riveted over the hull for strength so it's possible the water is leaking further forward and running all the way to the back between the 2 pieces of aluminum?

I put some 5200 on a couple small transom holes ea10 yrs ago. I actually applied it under the water line while floating at the boat ramp but it seems to have cured anyways and hasn't leaked a drop.

I may need some of that 5200! LOL After quite a few fishing trips the boat still leaks. I put the boat level and put a bunch of water in it and from about the console forward there are about 18 rivets leaking. They're all right where the bottom would hit when pulling the boat up onto shore. I know the best way to fix it would be to get inside and use a pnuematic hammer on em. But that would pulling the entire floor out. Maybe a winter project.... So what is this 5200? Sounds like that may be the ticket for now. Thanks!

Edit: I just found this. Sounds like it might work. Especially as there isn't any old silicone or anything on the rivets.

Gluvit or 5200 for sealing rivets & seams in aluminum hull?

I've begun removing loose original rivets and replacement pop rivets in my 1960 Crestliner Flying Crest. I'm going to hand buck in new solid rivets in most spots and maybe use a few screws to pull things together in a couple of places. After doing extensive reading in this forum and elsewhere...

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