Leak on my Alpha 1 on shifter rod

[karayj]

So I have noticed after replacing my impeller there is a leak at the shifter rod that goes to the upper section of the outdrive . This is the
Is there a seal there I can replace easy.?
Im doing a engine swap and need to take the outdrive anyways .
Could it be the same small o ring on the side that failed, I will add a picture to show where exactly. I do have a spare outdrive same ratio 4.3. alpha 1 gen 1 I can swap the upper drive housing if needed. The skeg is not the greatest so i would rather use my original one if that can be done.

 

[kenny nunez]

It looks like you have a leak where the driveshaft goes into the drive shaft housing. Also looks like water mixed. When you pull the drive have a drain pan under because otherwise there will be a mess to clean up.

 

[karayj]

So I have a spare with the upper with same ratio 1.84 r. it says 4.4 on the label but it should be ok correct ? using the the same lower end with a new impeller. I dont like the skeg on the spare so I would like to avoid using it

 

[karayj]

Before replacing the entire upper body with another one, a spare that I have is there a fix for this but simple or does it involve tearing down the entire upper part of the outdrive?

 

[karayj]

It looks like you have a leak where the driveshaft goes into the drive shaft housing. Also looks like water mixed. When you pull the drive have a drain pan under because otherwise there will be a mess to clean up.

It looks like you have a leak where the driveshaft goes into the drive shaft housing. Also looks like water mixed. When you pull the drive have a drain pan under because otherwise there will be a mess to clean up.

Before replacing the entire upper body with another one, a spare that I have is there a fix for this but simple or does it involve tearing down the entire upper part of the outdrive?

 

[Bt Doctur]

oil from there can only come from the inputshaft seal

 

[karayj]

oil from there can only come from the inputshaft seal

oil from there can only come from the inputshaft seal

I'm getting 2 answers now LOL 1 input shaft seal and where the drive shaft goes into the driveshaft housing. Great !! LOL I think I will go with input seal because it started after impeller change

 

[karayj]

I'm getting 2 answers now LOL 1 input shaft seal and where the drive shaft goes into the driveshaft housing. Great !! LOL I think I will go with input seal because it started after impeller change. I am confused because the picture show oil coming through a seal for the shift shaft. It is coming down for the upper outdrive section not lower.

Ok let me see if I can see where that is located or a video on how to change it ....if you can give me some details. The internet is not showing me any good info.. I am confused because the picture shows oil coming through a seal for the shift shaft. It is coming down for the upper outdrive section not up from the lower unit. I just want to get it fixed the 1st time and not find out it was not in the lower end.

I found this on the internet. https://www.bing.com/images/search?...&selectedIndex=42&itb=0&ajaxhist=0&ajaxserp=0

 

[Scott06]

I'm getting 2 answers now LOL 1 input shaft seal and where the drive shaft goes into the driveshaft housing. Great !! LOL I think I will go with input seal because it started after impeller change

common for vertical driveshaft to damage the seal in upper when reassembling the two halves.

Ok let me see if I can see where that is located or a video on how to change it ....if you can give me some details. The internet is not showing me any good info..

to change out you need to remove input driveshaft (need big spanner to remove big nut. Input driveshaft bearings, gear come out. Remove top cover, then remove other gear in upper, change out seal. If you keep all the sims in place and dont have to change anything else like gears or bearings you can reassemble easily.

in your case might be easier to use spare drive or upper. I wouldn't bother splitting the drive to use the complete skeg lower

best bet is to get factory manual #14 for the gen 2 drive if you are getting into drive internals. I got mine used off ebay for like $35-50. If you have the tools and mechanical aptitude the manual is excellent for laying out the details of drive work.

I did my drive last winter as I picked up a fishing line on prop shaft that FUBARed my seal. Found some pitting on bearings inside drive. I had to buy a few tools to do the work, but also found the shimming factory tools $$$ on ebay for about half price (used).

 

[karayj]

I have a spare upper unit with the same ratio. It does say 4.3 on the back but the gear ratio is 1.84r and my current one is the same 1.84r could I use that for now to my original lower and rebuild the bad one over the winter?
We have a short season in New England 60 more days tops hate to waste 2 weeks on this ...

 

[Scott06]

I have a spare upper unit with the same ratio. It does say 4.3 on the back but the gear ratio is 1.84r and my current one is the same 1.84r could I use that for now to my original lower and rebuild the bad one over the winter?
We have a short season in New England 60 more days tops hate to waste 2 weeks on this ...

Exactly swap in the spare drive (would pressure test first) and don't mess with it. Do the seal work over the winter.

I'm in upstate NY same thing its so short keep parts on hand and do the work over the winter. Had to rebuild jet pump on the sea doo last week, Had a rebuild kit on hand. 2 hrs later back on the water

 

[karayj]

Here’s a stupid question, but maybe not if I lift up the cover at the very top of the outdrive the four bolts that give you access to the bearings. Should I see oil that high up. The reason I’m asking is I was going to add some oil to compensate what I’m losing to do one or two more outings. The back up drive needs a few parts plus I’m pulling the engine so it makes no sense because I have to take it off anyways.

So my question is if I undo those full bolts at the very top that expose the shaft and gears why can’t I just pour gear oil right from there. Or does it have to be filled from the bottom?

 

[Scott06]

Here’s a stupid question, but maybe not if I lift up the cover at the very top of the outdrive the four bolts that give you access to the bearings. Should I see oil that high up. The reason I’m asking is I was going to add some oil to compensate what I’m losing to do one or two more outings. The back up drive needs a few parts plus I’m pulling the engine so it makes no sense because I have to take it off anyways.

So my question is if I undo those full bolts at the very top that expose the shaft and gears why can’t I just pour gear oil right from there. Or does it have to be filled from the bottom?

Excuse the bluntness but that makes no sense.

You can but why ?? fill it from the bottom. Leave the vent cap on pull the bottom plug, put the pump in and pump till it comes out the vent.

Big issue u want to see if water is getting in there

 

[karayj]

So this is my spare outdrive and it looks to be that I’m missing some **** that shaft that connects to the shifting rod I don’t know if it fell down when I separated them and I lost it. Can I transfer it from my old one. is it me or do I have an incorrect spare outdrive. I bought this years ago and I didn’t know much. The first picture is the spare. The second picture is what I currently have. They don’t look the same.

I bought this along time ago thinking it was all about ratio and I would be fine. Turns out I think I’m wrong. The internals don’t look anything like my other one. It is an alpha one, but it’s 4+3. I’m thinking I made a big mistake. I don’t see anything for the shifter coming down, all I see is two holes one for a bolt and one for the selector that goes to the lower part of the engine. What am I missing here? .

 

[karayj]

Sorry for all the messages but I’m an IT guy the more info the better so I took the cap off and I’m thinking maybe am good for maybe five more runs until I call it the day. Usually August 30 I don’t boat anymore. The water gets cold. So I lifted up the cap and I noticed it’s pretty high up. I mean it’s been leaking a little bit but I think I just top it off every so often it’ll get me through the season the color isn’t that bad it is you know a little creamy my best guess is it’s just a little bit below the fill line maybe an inch. Now I understand where it’s leaking from those big gears connected to the yolk has a seal from it going past the gears towards the shaft and shooting straight down. If that’s how I understand it.

When I topped it off and added an inch of fluid what’s in there now is pretty much the same same color as what I’m putting in 80 W 90. So it’s not really contaminated that much with water.

 

[karayj]

Excuse the bluntness but that makes no sense.

You can but why ?? fill it from the bottom. Leave the vent cap on pull the bottom plug, put the pump in and pump till it comes out the vent.

Big issue u want to see if water is getting in there

It was actually better I was down 1 inch check my gears and got to see the fluid colors and adding 1 cup to top it off was so easy .

 

[karayj]

Disregard my 6: 59 post. I was looking at it wrong !!!! UGH. DUM ASS
it look to be that I am ok and will add the spare next week I order my alignment tool today.

I had trouble looking at it upside down and now I get it . The shaft and exhaust are part of the gimbal section.

 

[Scott06]

It was actually better I was down 1 inch check my gears and got to see the fluid colors and adding 1 cup to top it off was so easy .

Sure... as long as a bolt doesn't break or thread in housing strip, which can happen on older drives. Point I was trying to make if you are trying to skate through to end of season touch as little as possible, you would have seen the color of lube and how much it was down by how much more you had to put in...You should replace the oring on there too.

The upper bearing there shows corrosion maybe some pitting from moisture damage. You can rebuild the drive, but what most folks do is buy a new SEI aftermarket drive and bolt it on. I believe they have a 3 year warranty and the price point is perfect for those of us who keeping older boats going on a budget. Usually less than cost to fix a drive or buy the tools to do it.

 

[nola mike]

Excuse the bluntness but that makes no sense.

You can but why ?? fill it from the bottom. Leave the vent cap on pull the bottom plug, put the pump in and pump till it comes out the vent.

Big issue u want to see if water is getting in there

Actually this would be much easier to do on the water if you just need to top off. In my case on the lift it's pretty tough to fill from the bottom without making a mess. Maybe pull the top cap and the vent screw

 

[Scott06]

Actually this would be much easier to do on the water if you just need to top off. In my case on the lift it's pretty tough to fill from the bottom without making a mess. Maybe pull the top cap and the vent screw

ok, OP is on land but sure...I forgot you do your maintenance while bungee jumping... Seriously maybe if you had a small copper tube on end of lube pump (or lube tube) that would let air out (while its in the vent plug hole) you could probably top up with out removing the cap? or remove the cap if you prefer