Kill switch on the control box

mav6759

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
489
Re: Kill switch on the control box

Haffiman, Are you saying that my pointer maybe off. The books that my mechanic is using are the books that he got while in marine repair school. We followed step by step and the book said just what you wrote. The problem is we can't get that crazy light to go out unless we move the sersor about 3/4 of an inch to the right. Could this be that the pointer is off. and if so. how would we get the pointer back where it suppose to be.

mav6759
 

ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Re: Kill switch on the control box

Rewinding to post #7 ....it sounds like a possible link and synch issue with respect to the carb throttle linkage. This is a very critical setting and if out of adjustment will show its ugly face when attempting to throttle up from an idle in water. Otherwise insure that the idle orifices in the carbs are clean and clear and are of the proper size.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Kill switch on the control box

Haffiman, Are you saying that my pointer maybe off. The books that my mechanic is using are the books that he got while in marine repair school. We followed step by step and the book said just what you wrote. The problem is we can't get that crazy light to go out unless we move the sersor about 3/4 of an inch to the right. Could this be that the pointer is off. and if so. how would we get the pointer back where it suppose to be.

mav6759

No way the pointer may be off that much, but have you checked that the timing wheel brass hub is not loose or not locked properly by the key? Verify by turning engine at cyl1 in TDC and pointer should be in TDC as well. Or do you by any chance have put a V6 timing wheel on the engine??
 

mav6759

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
489
Re: Kill switch on the control box

Thanks for your replies,

I double checked the timing wheel and it is for a v4. Now that the new stator is on, the motor will start but it back fires and won't stay running on its own. If I continue to give it gas, it will stay running. Now we are back to the timing issue. My mechanic once again tried to time the motor with his engine analyzer. We did the link and sync. about 5 times. Each time the optical sensor was connected to the engine analyzer. The engine analyzer showed the optical sensor was good. The nest step according to the book and spec's. was to move the low idle tab until the sync light on the engine analyzer goes out. The sync light never went out. If we move the throttle on the optical sensor, the light on the engine analyzer will go out, but according to my mechanic, the throttle on the optical sensor has to be positioned all the way to the stop. The only way the sync light on the engine analyzer will go out is if we advance the throttle link on the optical sensor. In which, my mechanic says you can't do. According to his spec book, as we move the low idle tabs on the optical sensor, it will move the throttle link on the optical sensor, thereby turning off the sync light, thereby timing the low speed on the motor. But, we can't get the light to go out. So at this point, we can?t get the motor to idle, because we can?t adjust the low speed to adjust the high idle speed.

HELP

MAv
 
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