JW10 no spark problem?

[Aficio]

The old coils we probably original, I have never seen something cracked so badly.
I replaced the coils. Then measured them out, following the Outboard motor repair guide for the 53 to 67. replaced both plug wires with metal core 7mm. good continuity from the end of the wire through the coil. Replace both condensers. Did not change the points. there was no visual wear on them. I grew up working with points on all my vehicles, and these look very good. Checked the gap and they are both good. Put in a new set of spark plugs. It still had the old larger fat ones from the '50s or early '60s. pull the plugs and set the base against a head bolt for ground, checking for spark, and have nothing. Used a spark tester, and still have nothing. What am I missing?
Thank You

 

[Crosbyman]

clean the points again and retest

 

[racerone]

Green wire going to the correct set of points?-----Plug wires screwed into the coils ?------Coil air gap correctly set.

 

[Aficio]

Crosbyman, led to a find, I do not understand what caused it. since the surface of the points looked good. I have no continuity across either of the points when they are closed. Even after cleaning them up, It is not constant enough to trust. Time to order a new set. Cannot believe my lying eyes, they are metal, closed, and touching, but with no continuity. I am sure if they were carrying a higher current it would flow. but nothing in this environment.

 

[Crosbyman]

did you burnish the surfaces a bit and clean them with carb cleaner wetted business card

no real reason not to conduct at 0 ohms ... you did short your VOM probes and set the needle to 0 if analog.

use the lowest ohms scale possible on your meter. try them out because the pounding action of the cam lobe should help clean the surfaces even more

 

[racerone]

The metal might form an oxide coating.----That needs to be cleaned.----Doubt you need new points.----And even new points need to be cleaned.

 

[Aficio]

Bad eyes. I was touching them up with a jewelers file. Switched to some passes with emery cloth. I have the continuity on both sides now. will check timing tonight and see if we can get it going. One question, I will set the points gap, then look for timing with the meter. What I do not understand is, online I have seen two different people set their timing. But they had the timing lever assembly in different positions. Since that physically moves the timing, where is its base, or supposed to sit at, when timing with a meter? In one online clip, it was around start, on the other, it was maxed out?

 

[racerone]

When using the meter to set the opening of the points it does NOT MATTER if it is at idle or full throttle.----It just does not matter.----You are timing the opening of the points to the rotation of the flywheel.----The timing of spark relative to piston is correct when points are set using the meter.----

 

[Crosbyman]

or..simply set at .020 at the highest point of the cam lobe

 

[oldboat1]

^^my choice. ("top" on the lobe refers to its installation. If you see the word, the points are right-side up -- correctly installed.) Rotate the flywheel by hand until one set of points is fully open. Set at that point to .020 and tighten down. Rotate flywheel again clockwise until the second set of points is fully open -- set at .020. If you use this method, you will have located the proper setting point (highest point of the lobe).