"Just about had it"

takeemmac

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Oct 1, 2011
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I have a 1986 stratos with a 86-87 mercury 150hp xr2 ...I rebuilt the power head (pistons and bearings), drained the fuel tank cleaned it, installed new bulb, fuel lines even bewteen the carbs, installed new fuel enrich. lines and new crossover lines that go to the cyld. then to intake, new plugs, rebuilt the carbs, checked the reeds, installed new switch box, Idle control mod. and the list goes on and on my boatt is break out another two thousand...... not all of this happened at once.. please bare with me. I bought the boat knowing full well that it had a blowen head gasket. thats it I did not know anything else about the motor. I rebuilt the power head reinstalled it and got it to fire up after I replace the starter. I kept the dog ears on it for about an hour hour and a half. she sat there and peed great, idled even better.. I took it to the lake first time out hard starting and harder to get going did not want to idle. finally got it to go and kept .her about 1800 to 2100 rpm for 30min or so untill she died and would not start again. (thank god for the I Pilot). got it home put the dog ears on after I replaced the fuel line and bulb and she fired right up....back to the lake the next day. ran her for about and hour 2100 to 2600. untill she died again tried to restart and smoke was comming from under the cowling. hummmm not good starter wire shorted out, another trip back to the ramp with the I Pilot, replaced the wires and installed new starter, I could go on and on. the last time out i ran it for 3 hours back and forth around the lake 2000 to 4300 rpm untill she died turning a corner would not start back up. ok now I have just replaced one of the 2 switch boxes, and the idle control mod per the report from mercury shop 2 weeks and 300.00 later. if they had done it it would have been $1193.72 no thanks. I'm frustrated now ....I replaced the switch box yesterday and she would fire up but not stay running. I took it to the lake after replacing the idle control mod. tonight (it was after 11pm) backed it into the water left it on the trailer all she dose is turn over I try to push in the key no click. from the fev.....it was working yesterday.

Just looking for your thoughts is there and end in sight
 

Dukedog

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Oct 6, 2009
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Re: "Just about had it"

Do you have an OEM manual? How old are tha electrics and harness? All of 'em......Wasted $'s on tha idle stab. Take it off and put it on ebay. Reset timing to 20/22 degrees max. Not good ta replace "one" switch box. I have figured out over tha years that on older motors it is best ta replace all tha electrics with new except maybe tha trigger on rebuilds (stator,switch boxes, rec., reg. is optional) It (trigger) seems ta be tha most dependable 'lectric part on tha motor. Check every inch of motor harness, device wiring...............jmo
 

emoney

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Jul 19, 2010
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2,551
Re: "Just about had it"

You're being a victim of the "gotta just get it on the water" syndrome. I've been there before and let me tell you, it always ends up with you spending a ton of money, to the point of frustration, selling the motor(boat) and the next guy having it made for the next 10 years. Ask me how I know this, lol.

You need to start diagnosing your problems before you throw parts at it. Mercury dealer can do that. I'd start at the very, very top with a comression test first. Then get a spark tester, and then the fuel system. That's all it takes to run: compression - spark - fuel. Slowly go through these tests and don't move to the next one until you've got factory spec #s on the one you're at. You've come this far, now it's time to "get over the hump", which is often the most difficult thing to do. Good luck.
 

takeemmac

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Re: "Just about had it"

Thanks for your replies, I calm now and thinking. no I have a sealoc manual and it is about worthless. the wiring diagram, some of the specs are ok but thats about it. I had ordered and replaced the idle control mod there was a wire that was burnt off who knows, the merc mech. said it was bad and to get another one. I took it out last night after replacing it left the boat on the trailer and my fuel enrichement was not working. I got the thing home again and pulled the wires from behind the starter tested the mod. and it was ok checked the wire comming from the switch and it was good hooked it back up and it worked just fine tonight. my only guess is a bad ground with all the things going on with the motor i can see that. I took it back to the lake backed it in, pushed in the choak, click started it and it fired up and died tried it again and again same thing....pressed the hot foot down a little and got it to run about 2500 to 3000 rpm and im sure if I would have left it there it would have stayed running. without a real mercury manual Im heistating about messing with the timming. I looked it the book I have and it says " Timming you motor will make you boat run better, save fule,ect... and dont grab the spark plug boot while the motor is running" then theres a picture of the flywheel and timming marks and thats about it.

What do you think the next move is? just an fyi the mercury mech. said the compression was 115, 115, 115, 106, 115, 115. this was on number one cylinder that I had the blown head gasket on and had to go with a .015 over piston and I think i did not get the ring gap perfect. I'm having trouble finding manuals other than sealoc. I guess i'm thinking timing thanks again for your input.
 

takeemmac

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Re: "Just about had it"

Do you have an OEM manual? How old are tha electrics and harness? All of 'em......Wasted $'s on tha idle stab. Take it off and put it on ebay. Reset timing to 20/22 degrees max. Not good ta replace "one" switch box. I have figured out over tha years that on older motors it is best ta replace all tha electrics with new except maybe tha trigger on rebuilds (stator,switch boxes, rec., reg. is optional) It seems ta be tha most dependable 'lectric part on tha motor. Check every inch of motor harness, device wiring...............jmo

good advice, I just ordered another switch box, I keep the old one for a spare. Thank You for your service, and your input.
 

Dukedog

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Oct 6, 2009
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3,509
Re: "Just about had it"

Do you have a TDC dial indicator? Its a must to get tha timing right................
 

takeemmac

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Re: "Just about had it"

no. I went through checked the spark, fuel, choke. I had the fule enrichement lines jacked up but got that staightened out took it to the lake again pumped the bulb a couple of times turned the key, pushed it in a she fired right up but the died.....did it again and same thing....pushed the hot foot down and she will run at 2500 to ? but I refuse to start an outboard like that. anyway it died as soon as I let off the hot foot.
Question. It seems my real problems started when I rebuilt the carbs I have been doing some real sole searching and I'm thinking right before that it was running then the switch box went out. now the question. The float level is about the only thing I can adjust on the carbs is that right. I tore them down soaked them (they were pretty clean) but I made sure the jets went back exactly where they were. I was looking for Idle adjustment screws but there is nothing else other than the floats right????????
 

Dukedog

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Re: "Just about had it"

With tha carbs, there is nothing' to "adjust" except float height. As for "fire" and 'timing", ya GOTTA have a TDC dial indicator and timing light to get it done no mater what after a rebuild and/or any electrical change I don't care what anyone else will say. Ya gotta do complete what most refer to as "link n sync" after any carb redo. It should "idle" even without any carb linkage on tha thing and tha floats just close ta right. Which is tha way I do it on troublesome motors. If you can't get it to do that way its still go a problem somewhere. Idle should be determined with tha "timing" adjustment and nothing else. But here again ya gotta have tha dial indicator at tha very start or you'll never get it right. Final idle timing needs ta be done on tha water, in gear under a load. Can leave it on tha trailer ta do it if you want......

Oh yeah, make sure ya got tha idle stab/advance module DISCONNECTED and/or trashed before jacking with any timing adjustments.....
 

takeemmac

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Re: "Just about had it"

thanks thats my next step now, while you were posting i guess, I went out took each one of the carbs off ( I'm getting good at it) tore them down again checked and changed if needed the float hight to 1/16, checked the main jets .064 in all 3 carbs, checked all of the idle jets .056 in all 3. there were no vent jets? my carbs are ? 33-1 and my book should cover that but the jet size are not listed. used a can of carb cleaner to make sure the needles? were clear to the mixing chamber.( I dont like doing it twice but had to make sure) put it all back together took it to the lake again light rain......until I crawled onto the boat then lighting, then cow pissing on a flat rock....pumped it up, pushed the choak and she fired right up and idled for a few seconds then died tried it again and she stayed running reved it up alittle and you are right about the timming she sounded like she was booging down and out of time a little but got better as she was reved up. The lighting was a little too close to stay any longer.... Just an fyi I had disconnected the Idle control box....it ran good before with the bad one in there....could I acheive the same goal with a pair of dial calipers to make sure its up on tdc? if so I can do that here in a couple of hours after some sleep.
 

Dukedog

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Re: "Just about had it"

When you hold tha carb body upside down and level with floats installed they should be level with tha carb body. Thats tha right jetting for th wh33's. Never tried calipers. Don't think ya gonna do any good there. TDC and .462 are a must on tha motor ta get it right. Or ya can use tha TDC and 25 degree method also. But without doin' one or tha other its not gonna be right.......jmo
 

aussieflash

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Re: "Just about had it"

1/16 is correct when carb is upside down....NOT level.
 

takeemmac

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Re: "Just about had it"

I noticed the pic in the manual was from 3 ft away when they showed where to measure the 1/16 from and to say where to measure from....side, front so I went from the front face/edge of the carb bowl in the middle of each float to the lipped edge of the float. is the 1/16 measured from the bowl to the highest point on the float or the lipped edge like I did
 

Dukedog

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Re: "Just about had it"

I beg ta differ. It states upside down and "level" in tha oem merc manual for wmh series which also applies ta tha wh series. At least in both tha ones I have................Now tha older manuals do show a different way but tha level does work just fine on tha V6 carbs...........Maybe tha "stateside" way is different. No mater, he can do it anyway he wants. I ain't gettin' in any pissin' matches on here. Just tryin' ta help out a little.............D

Never did say what kinda a manual your workin' with?..............
 

Dukedog

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Re: "Just about had it"

I think where tha difference of opinion is coming from is tha measuring point. If tha float is hangin' level tha whole float will be approx. 1/16 below tha carb body which is actually what every one is sayin' Just easier for most ta eyeball a "level" point than tryin' ta hold and measure tha 1/16 inch. Just make sure its tha very lowest flat part of tha float. Not tha beveled edge. It may be above tha body anyaway. Depends on whitch floats ya got. Maybe this will clear things up a little..............
 

takeemmac

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Oct 1, 2011
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Re: "Just about had it"

dukedog, thanks for your input, you have been a great help. the dial calipers worked, but you were right dial indicator would work alot easier. shes running. had to make a few on the water adjustments but she runs. had her up to about 4000 on plane and she runs great, What a huge weight off my shoulders....thanks again. oh the manual is a sealoc. just an fyi I'm going to try to post a small video clip.
 

aussieflash

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Re: "Just about had it"

Get a merc manual if you can find one.Mine covers your model 150 xr2 and V6 models from 83 to 88 going by the dates on the pages.
Part # 90-97658-3.
Measure float from highest point when upside down to carb body surface.Hold up with adjustment tab/needle-seat away from you.Such a tiny little adjustment is so critical and often overlooked resulting in shopping for more parts.
 
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