Johnson v4 120 hp Looper Overheat alarm at WOT

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Joe Reeves

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Re: Johnson v4 120 hp Looper Overheat alarm at WOT

BRP lists water deflectors for that model.

In which case, as the robot in Lost In Space would say... "Error, Error,BRP is in Error!

Trust me (as the ole carney used to say)... none of the loop charged models incorporate water deflectors.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: Johnson v4 120 hp Looper Overheat alarm at WOT

I called a OMC service company today and he told me there could be a restriction in the water control valve... If you are sure about what the valve does, could you please explain it to me because now I feel extremely confused.

Yes, I'm absolutely sure of what that water control valve does... where the water travels to and how is something I never looked into though. I just made sure that the valve functioned properly and was hooked up as it should be.

If you're mechanically inclined, and I assume you are, that valve isn't complicated and it's only attached with two screws. Take it off, take it apart, clean and inspect it. One strong suggestion..... make sure that the incoming/outgoing water tracks are not clogged.
 

GCarlover

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Re: Johnson v4 120 hp Looper Overheat alarm at WOT

I've been reading about cooling problems this week because mine runs cold so ordered new vernatherms. Should read 140 on them, Heard the small V4s can have a restriction, therefore not letting hot water to open the therms. Mine is a 87 Looper. Someone said use black thermostats. What should the temp be at idle on the muffs? Mine's ice cold so I pulled the stats and they are stuck open. S/b closed normally?
 

forsete

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Re: Johnson v4 120 hp Looper Overheat alarm at WOT

I've been reading about cooling problems this week because mine runs cold so ordered new vernatherms. Should read 140 on them, Heard the small V4s can have a restriction, therefore not letting hot water to open the therms. Mine is a 87 Looper. Someone said use black thermostats. What should the temp be at idle on the muffs? Mine's ice cold so I pulled the stats and they are stuck open. S/b closed normally?

Yes, they should be closed when temp is below ~140F
 

forsete

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Wow they really did manage to screw up this forum with the latest update.. Not compatible with Opera or Firefox, just IE if you want to post anything...

Anyways! Here is the latest update:

1. loosened the hose between starboard side cover and the water control valve and blew thru it with mouth. I could not determine if it helped remove any gunk, would not think so anyway...

2. Removed the t-stat assy together with the diaphrams and gave the rubber some "massage" =), I then switched the stbd side complete t-stat assy with diaphragm and all with the port side.

3. At wot the temp was about 130F when measuring with temp gun and no overheat alarm sounded.

I did put some extra effort in placing the diaphragms so the ventilation hole would end up correct but I am not sure they actually did get a better position than before.
There were different numbers on the rubber, i think one had number 22 and the other 40 something. The 22 that earlier was on the overheating stbd side is now on port side and with no heating issues.

Does anybody know what the numbers on the diaphragms stands for?!
 

GeeTee

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So - can you confirm in the end what the issue was? I have the exact same issue you`re having, almost 3 yrs later ;-)
 
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