Johnson temp issue

cobia205

Cadet
Joined
Jun 3, 2023
Messages
8
Ok I put my center console on the water for the first time since owning it for 7 years , it has been a long rebuild process on the hull but it finally hit the water. The engine is a 1990 Johnson 125 ( J125ESXESS ) the issue is after idling for 4 or 5 minutes the overheat alarm was sounding , I used a temp gun and I was getting 130-148 around the thermostat housings and the outside of the engine cylinders were 150 degrees. Is this warm enough to set the alarm off ?

This motor originally used a water control valve that has been since discontinued , so I bypassed the valve and did the thermostat upgrade from a 1989 70 HP ( 140 degree temp stats ) with the springs and gaskets that I learned from this site , the thermostats are now a couple of years old as well as the water pump but they don't have 2 hours of run time on them.

I believe the temp sensor in the head on the port side of the engine ( 2 wires ) is bad because when the alarm sounded , I unplugged the starboard sensor and the alarm kept sounding but when I unplugged the port sensor it quit , is there another way to test the sensor , they are still available but are very expensive so I would like to be sure before I throw parts at it ! Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

cyclops222

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
150
IS it a V block engine ? If yes. Then the Starboard Sensor appears to be operating OK. It sounds lik the Port Sensor is stuck in the ...CLOSED ... position. If the 2 thermostats can be swapped ? The problem would then be the Starboard head.
However.... The presently stuck CLOSED thermostat may free up after being removed. You could just remove the Port Thermostat and clean it. I would do the pot of water on a stove with the thermostat in the water and see what temperature it starts opening. See if it opens a lot. You could BOTH thermostats in the pot at the same time. That would give a good indication if it opens close together. AND goes to wide open together. Do not put the gasket in with it. Simple tests. Enjoy
Some body my have put the gasket or spring in wrong. Check each for differences of the parts. WRONG part ?
Or hot one not having parts in correct sequence ? Copy good side sequence.
 
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cobia205

Cadet
Joined
Jun 3, 2023
Messages
8
IS it a V block engine ? If yes. Then the Starboard Sensor appears to be operating OK. It sounds lik the Port Sensor is stuck in the ...CLOSED ... position. If the 2 thermostats can be swapped ? The problem would then be the Starboard head.
However.... The presently stuck CLOSED thermostat may free up after being removed. You could just remove the Port Thermostat and clean it. I would do the pot of water on a stove with the thermostat in the water and see what temperature it starts opening. See if it opens a lot. You could BOTH thermostats in the pot at the same time. That would give a good indication if it opens close together. AND goes to wide open together. Do not put the gasket in with it. Simple tests. Enjoy
Some body my have put the gasket or spring in wrong. Check each for differences of the parts. WRONG part ?
I will try pulling the thermostats tomorrow and look at them , wouldn't the head get a lot hotter than 150 degrees if the thermostat was stuck closed ? I am leaning more towards the sensor in the head being bad instead of the thermostats but it could be anything I suppose.
 

cyclops222

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
150
All the Evinrude / Johnson motors I know of always had perfect high temperature sensors. BUT the thermostats had a bad part which caused a STICKY overheat alarm. I would race the motor up in gear and the alarm stopped in a second or 2.
At 86 & heavy meds I do get confused sometimes.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,312
Agreed----Impeller is at least 7 years old and likely not replaced by previous owner.--So could be 15 years old.----Put a new one in every 5 years.
 

cyclops222

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
150
I change impellors and other parts only as they fail. The replacements might be junk compared to my O E M spare parts.
 

cobia205

Cadet
Joined
Jun 3, 2023
Messages
8
Does anyone have a diagram on the wires on the port side sensor in the head with colors , I have a dark tan wire that was hooked into the white wire with a black stripe and I have a light tan wire with a black stripe hooked to a light tan , it seems to me these might be backwards causing my alarm problem ??
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,025
the 1989 wire diagram for the 150 shows several sense wire merging in a diode cct with one conductor going into a control cct. presumably an ingnition controller driving the spark plugs .

I imagine any ground from any sensors are merge and directed to the control cct (CDI) to alarm.. probably shut down the engine or activate some form of SAFE mode.??

at this stage I do not know but can try to find out if a cct description exist

 
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cobia205

Cadet
Joined
Jun 3, 2023
Messages
8
the 1989 wire diagram for the 150 shows several sense wire merging in a diode cct with one conductor going into a control cct. presumably an ingnition controller driving the spark plugs .

I imagine any ground from any sensors are merge and directed to the control cct (CDI) to alarm.. probably shut down the engine or activate some form of SAFE mode.??

at this stage I do not know but can try to find out if a cct description exist

I figured it out !!! The tan with stipe goes to the white with stripe and solid tan to solid tan , no more overheat alarm after a few minutes of idling and the temps are still in the 150 range behind the thermostats. I tested the tan to ground and the horn sounded so I believe it is fixed. This also fixed an overcharging problem I had too somehow because before idling it would slowly climb to 16.9 volts now it stays at 13.6 at idle and doesn't climb and this is the only change I made !!! Thank you for all of the help !
 

cobia205

Cadet
Joined
Jun 3, 2023
Messages
8
in the 1989 150hp 9 amps model the sensors are all bridged and sent to the front via the large connector to activate the buzzer via the main TAN wire



View attachment 396108
The way it was wired originally the white wire with the black stripe being plugged into the solid tan was causing the horn to come on at 96 degrees.

The correct way now the solid tan wire plugged into the other solid tan causes it to come on at 203 degrees apparently from this article. The control end wiring is all color to color and is apparently working good , thank you again for all the help !!!
 

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cyclops222

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
150
My small 9.9 and 28 APL motors have identical cables & plugs. The spring became wedged at a angle and somehow caused restricted flow alarm condition. Removed parts and put them back correctly. Been perfect for decades.
 
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