Johnson Seahorse TN-28

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Cut back about 1/8" or so of the insulation. Fray the wires out. Pinch the sharp edge of the spring through the center of the plug wire deep enough back so that the spring coil buts up to the end of the plug wire. Spray some WD40 on the spring and inside the boot. Slide the spring/wire into the boot so that the open end of the spring aligns with where the spark plug will slide in.

All done.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=532781 look at the later posts in that thread.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Like this? I push straight up through the boot?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Yeah I like to fold the wired flat under the spring. Your pin need to go in deeper as well, may need pliers.

You will need the lube as well, but once oiled she will slide right in.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Ok, got it, thank you for the confirmation, I've never done a coil spring before. As long as it works

Also, this is all I got as the "carb kit" (439071) in my order. The tune-up kit, coils, impeller, head gasket and spark plugs are fine but I was expecting more for $126, oh well live and learn I guess. Hopefully this is all I need though. I will start the carb tomorrow assuming I get the flywheel back together properly.

 

[cyclops2]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Remember this about the carb float. If it is still a rough looking Cork one. Try to find a carburator kit that supplies a plastic float. The corks varnish ?? wears out & the float slowely sinks down over months, weeks,days, hours, MINUTES . that causes a flooded engine. .............................YOU ARE DEAD !
No plastic floats ? Someone should remember how to dilute the sealer of the cork to prevent gasoline from weighting it down.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

There are no plastic floats available for the TN motors. Post a pic of your float and we can help with whether it is salvagable or not. I usually just sand them down and coat with model airplane dope for the TNs. Only a coat or two, if you put on too many the float will be too heavy and flood the carb. Worse case scenario you have to make a new one which is fairly easy as well. Im surprised you even got a gasket, lol. I usually make my own as well.

 

[dazk14]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Like this? I push straight up through the boot?

As high trim has indicated... In addition (very minor details), I suggest you pierce the connector in relation to the spark plug , so there is no tendency for it to rotate inside the boot - which means last in the process.

2nd- To lubricate the process of inserting the wire into the boot - rather than an oil - wet with brake cleaner inside boot/wire - then work quickly! It will evaporate out and provide a tight bond between wire insulation and boot that is not easily disturbed.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

OK, I've done everything mentioned and got it all back together. It appears to function ok so far. Thanks everyone for the advice.

On to the carb. This one is a little different than the ones I've seen in other threads and how-to websites. I had to pull up and unscrew the high speed needle. Anyway, I got it all taken apart and here's the cork. Very dark and starting to flake. The float pin screw didn't seem like it was set in very well either.

 

[cyclops2]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Go to the www.pochefamily.org site for help with repairing a bad float.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

I'll post an update on the carb tomorrow but long story short, redoing the cork float failed. I ordered the Mercury float (Sierra 18-7208) which should be in tomorrow.

While I'm waiting on the carb I decided to try and drop the lower unit. After draining the oil and unscrewing the four 7/16" bolts on the bottom I couldn't get it to come off. I loosened the shift cable as seen below but it still doesn't want to drop. I've managed to pull it maybe 1/8 of inch out but it feels like something is still holding it. Did I miss something?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

THis is a fairly good guide for the TN

http://hoodad.fortunecity.com/tnlowerunit.html

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

Yeah that's exactly what I'm following, the only difference is his pictures are between two different motors but I'm following everything in theory. He had a harder time getting everything back together than taking it apart. :facepalm: I'll try setting it upright tomorrow and see if I can get it to drop.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

OK, I was able to get everything out, installed the new impeller but I'm having trouble getting everything back in. It appears that everything came out. You can see in this first picture that two washers came out from the top along with the shaft. In the second and third pictures, the tubes prevent me from getting much back in. Is it possible to disassemble further up so I can get at this? Even if I cram everything up, I can't get the shaft back in it's proper grooves.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

you need to be patient with the tubes, and will probably need an extra set of hands. try slowly rotating the flywheel ( plugs out of course) to get the driveshaft splines to line up in the crank. and as i mentioned...be patient!!! dont cram, jamb or force it back together or you will be taking it apart again.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

I have rebuild 2 of these and as I recall I had fun getting the gearcases back up on both.

Make sure there is no grease on TOP of the driveshaft, only the splines. As mentioned above, get someone to turn the flywheel slow while you wiggle the gearcase up.

 

[nwcove]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

cant tell for sure, but it looks like the water tube has been beaten on the end with a hammer and is flared out, if that is the case, its gunna be hard to get that back in without some careful work with a file or dremmel tool.

 

[F_R]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

What you need to do is pull the powerhead. It's only 5 bolts/nuts. Yeah, I know, that isn't normally necessary, but it will make it a lot easier. Besides, you need to make sure those seal parts are in correctly. Get the lower all squared away, then put the powerhead back on.

BTW, if you havent already, remove that curved pipe the the cable goes through at the top. Put it back after the cable is up in place.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

The end was slightly bent where it went in to the top of the impeller housing, there's still a part of it connected to the housing with a little pin. Hard to explain so I'll take a picture tomorrow.

In the second picture here I tried tracing how it winds up. Was it originally shaped that way or are they supposed to be straight? The shift cable tube is fine and I'm able to pull the wire all the way out and back up to the top with no issues thankfully.

 

[mindspin]

Re: Johnson Seahorse TN-28

What you need to do is pull the powerhead. It's only 5 bolts/nuts. Yeah, I know, that isn't normally necessary, but it will make it a lot easier. Besides, you need to make sure those seal parts are in correctly. Get the lower all squared away, then put the powerhead back on.

BTW, if you havent already, remove that curved pipe the the cable goes through at the top. Put it back after the cable is up in place.

OK I'll do this tomorrow. I actually have a new head gasket I need to install. Two questions:

1. Is Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 Sealant ok to use on the new head gasket? I have a tube of it already sitting around that I used to reassemble the fuel filter.

2. Which seal part goes on top? When I pulled the shaft a gold part fell out as well as a black ring as you can see in the picture.