Johnson 1988 vro 225 hp fixing up a Frankenstein

kcassells

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I would stick to the factory reeds
Too late ya know. I'm gonna take the hit, I hope not and the engine performs well is all. I'm fitting the plates/reeds in to confirm bolts and gaskets etc. Sugar goes south well then I'll diddle in the spring. I intended to get the piggy at least wet this season and then tune ups etc. Just part of the fun and learning curve.
I'm actually enjoying my lack of knowledge regarding outboards, antiques, retrofits etc. Wasn't my goal but now out of necessity it has become so.
 

kcassells

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Yahoo, cranks over very nice. Tach/rpms are @2500. Still having an issue understanding lync/sync.
I have all the tools, instructions but get crapped out with the following;
Carbs from bow view {front} are left side/starboard #2,4, 6
Right side/port #1,3,5
Pistons from my reading indicate complete opposite for pistons/spark plugs.
Ie; carb 2 is plug/piston#1, I would have thought carb 1,3,5 on port side would relate to spark/piston.
Am I missing something?
So putting TDC center of timing point and then 1.5" turn clockwise ok, then place piston stop tool. "A" Piston face is locked to tool.
Got it ok. Then instructions indicate to turn more clockwise to get to revolution next stop......................marked b c whatever.
Point is once the toll is up against piston there is no more revolutions from flywheel to turn.
Need understanding and help.
Trying to get idle on hose to @1200 rpms till I can get to the water for adjustments.
Thanks.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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It has a X flow crankcase...looking at carbs, the ones on left feed pistons on the right (2/4/6) and vice versa. Check the throttle plates as cylinder 5/6 can be off due to being single plates
 

kcassells

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Thank you Fazt,
So confirm,
Front view of carbs are
Starboard/left 2,4,6
Port/right is 1,3,5
Rear of engine looking at spark plugs/cylinders are
Starboard/right 1,3,5
Port/left 2,4,6
Opposite of frontal/rear view. I may have this spark plug/cylinder numbering as opposite and this is where I'm getting goofed.
From front view Starboard/left I would think carbs 2,4,6 would correlate to the spark plug/pistins behind them as piston top starboard 2,4,6
Trying to better understand complete link/sync.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Simple in my opinion.-----The top cylinder on the crankshaft is always #1------Carburetors on starboard side feed cylinders on port side.
 

kcassells

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Simple in my opinion.-----The top cylinder on the crankshaft is always #1------Carburetors on starboard side feed cylinders on port side.
So port side/top left is spark plug #1/ cylinder #1. Thats what Ive been using.
racerone....thanks. Just needed that simple of an answer to move forward.
Great, that being said so when I go 1.5" clockwise from tdc/lands on 16 install tool to meet face of piston, It is locked to face and won't turn at all. The only piston that lets me do it is piston 3...2 down from #1 piston. Any idea why this is the sequence that actually works?
 

kcassells

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No...looking at rear of engine the top right plug is #1
Thanks and it still does not do the 1.5" of tdc. Ill take pics. Sorry for the so many open ended questions. Im just trying to draw a definition on this in regard to the odd issues.
 

kcassells

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Thanks @racerone
Ive been doing alot since last recommendations. Ive replaced back as far as
the reeeds and all related gaskets from there to front. Nice and tight. Also new fuel lines, some clear so I can view recirc lines as well as prime. They are all working great.
Engine still runs high at 25-30 ths. rpms. Sometimes able to trim it down a little to 2 g's but no consistency.
Ran engine today and used starter fluid on new gasket areas no issues i think. But moved further back and lower areas behind and engine trimmed down. Yea...
My question is what areas behind gaskets for reeds would have an AIR issue that allows air in to increase rpms.
Im sure I have to do alot more gasket replacement in those areas.
Thanks guys.
 

kcassells

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On off rain day. Removed lower cowl to access any bolts I could tighten. Grabbed propane tanks for my little torch to run on any possible gasket leaks. Did not get there yet with weather, Eagles game and getting dinner ready. Usual delays, new starter cap blew off. Probably cheapo mfg. was supposed to be oem, kinda ? that when it showed up. Put back original. Looks like this at the moment.

brk starter.jpg brk strt 2.jpg gas lines viewable.jpg

View attachment runin high.MOV
 

kcassells

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Actually had to lol ...My Johnson....really?
My Johnson is a freak, this old piggy has won and worn me out. Ran piggy today and used propane, starter fluid etc on any gasket area for possible leaks. Not a single
I O DA of change to the 3000 rpm tach reading.
NOTA, NUTTIN, ZIP, ZRO, ZILCH...
Moving on. See if I can tap into some dockside mechanics, we'll see. Might start looking for another piggy Johnson.
Vac 1 .jpg

vac 3.jpg

vac 4.jpg

View attachment runin high.MOV
 

ct1762@gmail.com

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Jan 17, 2019
Messages
873
unscrew the cam roller set screw and let us know. very possible the throttle plates are still being held open a hair.cam roller needs to have a .010'' gap so its not touching throttle cam at idle, and clear sleeve in tact. those tygon fuel hoses are not stiff enough in my opinion to prevent fuel restrictions. if the flywheel key slipped and allowed the timing to be advanced, it will do as shown as well. ditto for timer inner magnet on flywheel. just had a 200 venom from a customer slam to redline (well, it would have if i werent so quick to shut it off) from a slipped flywheel. can be scary stuff depending on how badly its advanced!
 

kcassells

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Worked with inducer timing gun to get rpm's. Still unable to get the girl down to 1200 rpm on hose. All carbs are synced and rollers are good. Have had them off a couple of times while working on fuel lines etc. The nice thing is I can see the fuel moving in the recirc lines.
Cannot not get piggy below 25-30000 rpm in idle.

vac 4.jpg gas lines viewable.jpg prime feed.jpgVac 1 .jpg
View attachment too fast.mp4
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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unscrew the cam roller set screw and let us know. very possible the throttle plates are still being held open a hair.cam roller needs to have a .010'' gap so its not touching throttle cam at idle, and clear sleeve in tact. those tygon fuel hoses are not stiff enough in my opinion to prevent fuel restrictions. if the flywheel key slipped and allowed the timing to be advanced, it will do as shown as well. ditto for timer inner magnet on flywheel. just had a 200 venom from a customer slam to redline (well, it would have if i werent so quick to shut it off) from a slipped flywheel. can be scary stuff depending on how badly its advanced!
" if the flywheel key slipped and allowed the timing to be advanced, it will do as shown as well. ditto for timer inner magnet on flywheel."
I need more info in this area that you reference. Any add'l info appreciated. Thanks.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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unscrew the cam roller set screw and let us know. very possible the throttle plates are still being held open a hair.cam roller needs to have a .010'' gap so its not touching throttle cam at idle, and clear sleeve in tact. those tygon fuel hoses are not stiff enough in my opinion to prevent fuel restrictions. if the flywheel key slipped and allowed the timing to be advanced, it will do as shown as well. ditto for timer inner magnet on flywheel. just had a 200 venom from a customer slam to redline (well, it would have if i werent so quick to shut it off) from a slipped flywheel. can be scary stuff depending on how badly its advanced!
Ct I found this link to start with. On to the next engine fix.
thanks
 
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