halfmoa
Ensign
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2011
- Messages
- 955
I humbly submit a tutorial on how to replace the impeller on a hydroelectric shift Johnson/Evinrude outboard motor.
To start, this is a 1972 Johnson 65hp engine, model 65ESL72S, mounted on the transom of my 16' 1972 Starcraft Super Sport.
To replace the impeller you're going to need a 3/8[SUP]ths[/SUP] drive standard socket set with 6 inch extension, liquid soap, electrical tape, about 15 feet of strong cord (I used 550 paracord but in the future I'll use 40lb mono), electrical tape, marine grease (ANY grease is better than no grease at all
), anti-seize, a helper, and of course a replacement impeller.
Step one is to remove the cowling and locate the solenoid control wires seen here.
Slide the protective insulation away from the lower unit and disconnect the knife connectors. At this point you need your cord and tape handy. You're going to tape the cord to the wires that lead towards the lower unit. (If you don't know how to tape off wires to pull with a cord now would be a great time to look that up...you don't want to lose these suckers.) Tie off the pulling cord so you don't end up pulling it clear through. I also labeled the green wire. It's colored but those of us who are blue/green colorblind need it labeled. Soap up the wire loom and taped connection, and remove the loom from the hook on the reed box.
Make a mark on the antiventilation plate indicating your trim tab position,take the four outer bolts that hold the lower to the exhaust leg completely out as well as the "hidden" bolt located under the trim tab as shown here.
To be continued....
To start, this is a 1972 Johnson 65hp engine, model 65ESL72S, mounted on the transom of my 16' 1972 Starcraft Super Sport.
To replace the impeller you're going to need a 3/8[SUP]ths[/SUP] drive standard socket set with 6 inch extension, liquid soap, electrical tape, about 15 feet of strong cord (I used 550 paracord but in the future I'll use 40lb mono), electrical tape, marine grease (ANY grease is better than no grease at all
), anti-seize, a helper, and of course a replacement impeller.Step one is to remove the cowling and locate the solenoid control wires seen here.
Slide the protective insulation away from the lower unit and disconnect the knife connectors. At this point you need your cord and tape handy. You're going to tape the cord to the wires that lead towards the lower unit. (If you don't know how to tape off wires to pull with a cord now would be a great time to look that up...you don't want to lose these suckers.) Tie off the pulling cord so you don't end up pulling it clear through. I also labeled the green wire. It's colored but those of us who are blue/green colorblind need it labeled. Soap up the wire loom and taped connection, and remove the loom from the hook on the reed box.
Make a mark on the antiventilation plate indicating your trim tab position,take the four outer bolts that hold the lower to the exhaust leg completely out as well as the "hidden" bolt located under the trim tab as shown here.
To be continued....
