Islander hull corrosion help!!

Croge

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Jan 11, 2020
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Well, after grinding and cleaning the bottom of my hull I found some bad pitting. It looks like it goes DEEP! The worst is under where the gas line was and I am sure the wet foam and treated floors that were in There when I got it did not help. What do u guys think I should do? Fill with JB or try to braze? Any thought would help! This really bums me out having put so much time into it already.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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the chemicals in treated wood are what was eating the aluminum.

My suggestion would be to find a competent aluminum welder, cut out the bad material and weld in some 5052 aluminum patches. JB isnt going to help, and you cant get it clean enough to simply weld the holes shut.
 

SHSU

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As Scott recommended best option is to have a welder do the work

Other option is to get a plate of aluminum and 5200/rivet it to the exterior of the hull. Wont be pretty and may cause some slight hydrodynamic issues but at least you know it was patched. Then if you JB weld the inside it wont matter as much if it fails over time.

SHSU
 

GA_Boater

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I'm seeing shop heads on the rivets, which makes me think the pitting inside the hull. If so, rivet some plates with 3M 5200.

See any more pitting? Have you pulled transom wood? Probably have some back there too.
 
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Croge

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Yeah the transom has a bunch but not as deep. I am thinking of re-skinning the transom over the existing skin. I was thinking I could rivet with 5200 over the original skin but am not sure since I want to run an outboard pod if that would matter or if I should have someone weld the skin on. I have a buddy of mine coming to look at the pitting to see if he could tig them. I have my doubts that I could clean them up enough for tig so I think I will just patch them. The rest of the hull is not bad just some minor surface stuff in one or two spots.
I have not come across many islander hulls that r on the cheaper side ( I’m in western NY) so I want to make this work.
 

GA_Boater

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Transom skins only keep water out. Strength comes from the doubled plywood and knee braces, even if a pod is added.
 

Croge

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[No message]
 

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Croge

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That is transom corrosion. It is all over bottom half of transom.

GA Boater- do plan on running knee braces for structural support And I have the transom (2layers of 3/4 marine)glued together and epoxied but before I put It in I want to make sure the transom won’t leak.
 

GA_Boater

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What you have to do is first, stop the corrosion and second, prevent it.

Watermann and classicboater have experience. Wire brushing and rinsing with white vinegar to stop it, then MarineTex to fill the pits and painting for prevention. These step are from memory.

Is/was your Islander an IO?
 

racerone

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Any friends who work in aircraft repair / maintenance ?------On a plane this type of corrosion would be a serious concern.-----Often engineers would come up with an approved repair.--------Myself I would be looking at cutting out the damage and riveting a replacement panel.----And a lot depends on where / when the boat will be used.-----Big waves / wide open / cold water I may not want an aluminum boat with this kind a damage hiding under the floor.
 

Scott Danforth

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Radiator shops charge about $50 per hour to weld in patches.
 

classiccat

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My SS had alot of corrosion like that.

You'll want to physically clean out any aluminum oxide (usually white) for starters...I used a specific dremel bit that didn't dig deeper however went laterally through the alumina really well and even exposed "worm holes" that were buried beneath the aluminum surface. I didn't find any wormholes in the bottom skin however the transom was loaded with them.

Next, assess how much of the hull skin is compromised. I went around and poked aggressively to see if I can push through the holes with an awl or pick and even tried quantifying some of the deeper recess with a gauge.

single isolated pinholes got drilled out and riveted. Larger compromised areas I patched externally.

if it's a relatively shallow pit (most of mine were...consider superficial), you'll want to fill it with something to prevent water from pooling up in the little recesses. JBWELD or Marine Tex are fine.

To ensure that my filler adheres, I etched/cleaned the aluminum (phosphoric acid etch) then passivated it (chromate conversion). This is basically the Alodine treatment pros use for priming aluminum for painting. I used the West Systems 860 etch kit since i had it left over after a previous build.

WestSystems860AluminumEtch.jpg
 

GA_Boater

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CC - I pinged the wrong classic, some guy with no posts and hasn't been here in 9 years. :doh:

I almost got your steps. Thanks.
 

Croge

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Thanks for all the replies!!!!! I am still going through the hull to see if I can find any other corrosion. So far looks like I found it all. I think the external patch would work the best for the real big pits but I have to remove a large rub to get at it so that looks fun!!
 

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Croge

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GA-Boater - yes it was an I/0. That is also why I think the extra transom skin would be nice filling over the old keyhole.
 

7mm

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I am restoring a 1987 islander 221. After digging out all of the foam I found corrosion in the same location as yours. Mine had 10 pinholes that had eroded all the way through the bottom. To repair I pressure washed, wire wheeled, etched and rinsed the entire hull. I then used Marine Tex on the eroded areas. I drilled out the pin holes and riveted them with solid rivets with a dab of 5200. I then used Gulvit on all rivits and seams in the hull. I then painted the inside of of the hull below decks with a polyurethane marine paint. The last step was probably un necessary. I hope to splash the boat in May 2020.
 

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DLNorth

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I would consider an internal patch, that is riveted, after filling with filled epoxy as Classiccat described above.
You don't want to weld work hardened and tempered alum.
 

racerone

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We all know about fatigue cracking of aluminum parts.------Airline industry check parts all the time.------If a patch job falls of an aluminum body of a pick-up truck there is no problem.----You just pull over and look at it then drive on.-----Not so with a patch on a boat or airliner.----Think carefully about these repairs.
 
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