Re: is there a secret to welding cast aluminum?
If it's cosmetic only then use the filler. If you insist on welding it get some etching fluid to clean the pit marks that you can not clean otherwise. It is acidic and will etch the pitted surfaces clean before you weld. Enough shielding gas (argon) and the correct tig tip (not to a sharp point) like you do with tool steel welding and you should be O.K. without melting your motor. Make certain the aluminum rods you are using are not old as they do not weld in difficult situations when they are older.
yeah I was using a 3/32nd dia pure tungston rod with a full radius.
I had the heat up close to 200 amps i guess....I had sandblasted the whole thing good...there wasnt any coorosion in the old pits...but it wasnt shinny aluminum like youd want...it was sandblasted.
every once in a while I could puddle a little but there was so much heat in there it would cool as i tried to touch my rod to the puddle.... I couldnt get the rod to go into a liquid puddle......yu know that grey haze that glazes over your heated zone, that tells you it is about to cave in!! ha ha
i saw that and got worried....truth is the pits i was trying to weld were not over a bore actually..they were over the last opening where the shift rod goes down through.
anyway. I wont try welding it any more..ill probably make more work for myself.
I wll try to find some marinetex..it should stick to freshly sand blasted surfaces.
I think my bigger issue might be the pitting on the drive shaft bearing dia...trying to figure how i want to deal with that with out buying a $500 plus drive shaft or buying a used one for $250 and getting the same problem i have now!!
bob