Is There a Repair Kit for Corrosion on the Gymbal Housing?

KM7

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Is there a repair kit for corrosion in the gimbal housing?

I have some corrosion on the Gimbal Housing where the U-Joint Bellows attaches. In order to get a water tight seal I will need to repair it.

Have any of you done that repair?
 

Lou C

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Post up pix of the damage, so we can see what you're dealing with....Some have used JB Weld, I have heard the best epoxy for those repairs is Belzona, but it is very expensive.
 

KM7

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That link took me to what looks like a complete Pivot Housing, not the gimbal housing and not a repair kit. The gimbal housing has the "pipe" that the forward end of the U-Joint bellows attaches to but you know that.
Attached is a picture showing the corrosion.

I did find a repair kit. it's $837 !!! for what looks like a bellows and some epoxy.

Gimble Housing Rebuild Kit - Sierra Marine Engine Parts (18-8312)​



Thank you,
 

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Lou C

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That's what I thought...looking at it, that appears to be the result of water laying in the D/S bellows and getting under the edge of it and corroding the aluminum there.
You have a couple of choices, changing that housing involves pulling the engine so that's not a great option for you I'm assuming!
I would find out if anyone welds aluminum where you are located, like a shop that fixes lower units when the skeg gets torn up. That would probably be the most lasting way to fix that.
The other thing you could do is call the company that sells Belzona, and ask if their products will work on that type of repair.
 

airshot

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If you plan on keeping this boat, why not do it the right way and replace all the corroded parts. Mercury has lots of good used parts floating around out there, heck, I even have a spare gimball housing in my barn for an outdrive I no longer own. Mercruiser parts are all over....
 

Fun Times

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I did find a repair kit. it's $837 !!! for what looks like a bellows and some epoxy.

Gimble Housing Rebuild Kit - Sierra Marine Engine Parts (18-8312)​


That/those kits by Sierra appear mostly to fit Merc, Alpha, Gen 1, another part number covers Gen 2, and another for the Bravo drives... Being you posted in the OMC sub forum, I'd guess you have an OMC you are working on here? What year and drive model exactly? Hopefully the one that's like the Volvo Penta SX, etc. from the merger back then?

If so to any of that then it seems there's also a kit that fits them (OMC, etc.) but according to the website, you have to give them a call to order.

The GHRKIT is now available by special order for Yamaha, Volvo Penta & OMC Outdrives! Please call us at 407-463-6438 for Pricing.
 

KM7

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This is an OMC Cobra OD on a 92 Four Winns Horizon 200 with a 5.8 L Ford Engine. The engine is model 584APLRGD, but it is actually a 91.
 

Fun Times

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This is an OMC Cobra OD on a 92 Four Winns Horizon 200 with a 5.8 L Ford Engine. The engine is model 584APLRGD, but it is actually a 91.
Just in case you’re interested to know, the whole housing part number was 0986718 … item 51,
Which you could find some used ones if thought to be needed the following way,

 

KM7

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To get better access to the gimbal housing in order to to repair it, I'm removing the pivot housing. To do that, I have disconnected the water hose from the back and taken the plastic nut off the front.

Should the plastic threaded piece just push back out of the back of the housing? Maybe I can just leave it in the housing for now.

To remove the shift cable, I can turn the 3/4 in nut in the back of the housing to unscrew it but the shift cable will turn with it. I don't want to damage the cable. Can I hold the brass front of the shift cable with vice grips while I try to turn the nut? There must be corrosion holding them together because I can't get them to separate.

Any suggestions? Spray with CLR???

Thanks
 

KM7

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To get better access to the gimbal housing in order to to repair it, I'm removing the pivot housing. To do that, I have disconnected the water hose from the back and taken the plastic nut off the front.

Should the plastic threaded piece just push back out of the back of the housing? Maybe I can just leave it in the housing for now.

To remove the shift cable, I can turn the 3/4 in nut in the back of the housing to unscrew it but the shift cable will turn with it. I don't want to damage the cable. Can I hold the brass front of the shift cable with vice grips while I try to turn the nut? There must be corrosion holding them together because I can't get them to separate.

Any suggestions? Spray with CLR???

Thanks
 

KM7

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Here is a diagram. Item 98 is the nut on the back of the pivot housing. How do I unscrew it from the housing without twisting the shift cable?


ShiftCableAndNutAftEnd.jpg
 

Lou C

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Ok I’ll try to explain my work around for this…when I replaced the bellows I removed the pivot housing. There’s a way to do it without disconnecting the shift cable at the pivot. What I did was disconnect it at the engine bracket and I put tape on the the adjustable barrel to keep that setting from changing. This will allow the cable to come back enough to get the bellows off without changing the cable setting. I tied a piece of twine to the pivot and tied the other end to the ski hook on the transom so the pivot didn’t weigh on the cable. Now if the cable needs to be replaced then do it but honestly if it’s shifting easily I’d leave it be…
 

KM7

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Success !! I was able to remove the pivot housing completely. Here is what I did:
1) Disconnect the shift cable at the engine and tape the barrel to keep it in place as you suggested.

2) Loosen the nut on the back of the shift cable at the pivot housing but only 1/2 a turn to avoid twisting the shift cable. Do not try to take it out completely.

3) Remove the 2 pivot screws that hold the pivot housing on the transom. This was not easy as that takes a lot of torque. I ordered a 1/2 in drive from Amazon, $8. I used a long-handled torque wrench to get the torque I needed. I pulled the pivot housing out just enough to get a wrench on the back of the shift cable. I held the shift cable from turning while I rotated the whole pivot housing around the cable till it came off.

4) With good access to the gimbal housing I can clean it up, wire brush it using a drill attachment, coat it with CLR, wire brush some more.

5) The next step will be to build back up the tube on the gimbal housing with JB Weld to create the attachment point for the U-Joint bellows.
 

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Scott Danforth

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the one issue you will come into. the JB weld will come loose in a few months as the corrosion is into the base metal and will propagate between the aluminum and epoxy

I recommend getting it welded.

This is a pay once cry once type of repair.
 

Lou C

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Glad my lil trick worked for you!
Looking at the extent of it, I agree with Scott, I'd get it welded, one-and-done
 
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briangcc

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I had a timing chain cover that looked like that. Gave it to a certified welder and you would be very hard pressed to tell its repaired. Honestly, skip the epoxy band aid and go get it done right the first time.
 

KM7

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the one issue you will come into. the JB weld will come loose in a few months as the corrosion is into the base metal and will propagate between the aluminum and epoxy

I recommend getting it welded.

This is a pay once cry once type of repair.
How would they weld it? Are you suggesting finding a replacement end of the gimbal housing that is not corroded and have it welded in place?

If I do repair with JB Weld I would paint it with a good primer and marine paint to try to prevent corrosion from coming back.
 

Scott Danforth

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no, I am suggesting taking it to an aluminum fabricator that will cut out the corrosion and weld in new bits of metal, then dress it back.

the issue with your plan is the corrosion will be under the JB weld, as its already in the metal that you hit with a wire brush.
 
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