Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[baseline]

baseline,

This was my solution to the same problem. I used schedule 80 (outdoor) PVC and a screw in endcap that I drilled out a hole large enough for the oarlocks. Works like a charm. I do have one strap, that connects to an anchor on the inside to the "battery compartment" and I added another anchor to the other side from a salvaged tie down.. I've even used it on class II rivers and it holds up.

Thanks for sharing oldmansivo, that is pretty creative of you to build!
I'm wondering though if there are any other options just to replace the ring with a bigger ring, hopefully there's more people in the same boat if not, I may have to look at buying some other oars which are stronger than the stock intex ones while still have a narrow diameter small enough to fit into those existing oar locks.
I broke the intex oars where there is a plastic coupler, which is why I'd like to have a bit better oars

 

[bigboatguy]

Hello everyone, new Mariner owner here.
I got my Mariner 3 last week and have started getting ready for mods and ordering some stuff off Amazon. After setting everything up I noticed it's too bulky to carry with one person. I don't want to scrape the bottom too much and make a large dolly system, so I am planning to do built in wheels. Has anyone modded the motor mount to attach retractable wheels?
I'm still waiting on the delivery for the mount to see how feasible and strong it will be, as well as if it will get in the trolling motors pivot area.

Here's a video of the transom wheel mod I'm planning (this is on an aluminum boat)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHt1yHdGeAY

 

[oldmansivo]

baseline I actually had made my own oars to do just what your are talking about. I found the oarlocks were under immense torque and pressure, to the point that I worried about raft failure. If you increase the size of the oar, you dramatically increase the stress on the boat. I chose the "creek frame" style for transportation reasons, and it disperses the stress over eight contact points (three tie downs per side and the board with my 200 lbs on the tube) with substantially more contact area.

 

[bigboatguy]

Update on my wheel mod. I ended up getting some random metal parts from Home Depot to make this. Next I need to figure out how to attach a retractable wheel system to that T-plate.

 

[astanton81]

Hey everyone.

It has been a VERY long time since I have posted in here. This thread is the reason I bought my Mariner 4 about 5 years ago.

However I haven't used it in probably 3 years and it's just been sitting in it's bag.

I am interested in trying to sell it and was wondering if anyone in here knows the best place to try and do so. Due to the size of it, I obviously want to sell it locally. I have some accessories I'd throw in with it too, although I think I'm going to keep my motor and battery, because I've used it multiple times when renting a Jon boat to go fishing before.

Any pointers would be helpful, thanks!

 

[trey22]

Sold mine on Craigslist. Got back what I paid for it, especially since it was modded (carpeted 2-piece wood floor, swivel boat seats, motor mount, Scotty rod holder). Ended up getting $400 for it. Threw in a few extras I had laying around (old, old fishfinder, cooler, older fish rods).

 

[bigboatguy]

Got my wheels in the mail today. Tried different mounting spots and finally settled on this layout. Just used some bolts, washers, wing nuts, T-plate, and 4 hole straight strut bracket from Home Depot. Didn't have to drill any holes and everything is still stock! I'm considering trying to fill the long aluminum rod of the motor mount with some dowel to strengthen and prevent bends.

The wheels are "Davis Instruments Wheel-A-Weigh" from Amazon. I managed to get a big discount buying it used from their warehouse deals.

Next is seeing if this will hold boat weight and most of my gear, and if has enough clearance!

 

[baseline]

Got my wheels in the mail today!

Looks good so far. Would love to see how it looks on the boat because transom wheels are definitely high on my list of to-do items

 

[bigboatguy]

Tried the wheels today for the first time. It makes moving the boat a lot more easy. When lifting it solo with one hand the boat is heavy! Next time I'm gonna just bring one battery and place that in the front with some extra long cables.

I'll post a video soon with me moving it around.

 

[LowDownJT]

Hey everyone! New Mariner 4 owner here, and I have to say, I love all the things you guys have been able to do with this boat. It is truly encouraging! Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage to do some fishing with my son in one of our many North Georgia lakes.

I have been looking at videos of set up and tear down of the boat, and I just thought I would ask a few of the seasoned pros on here.

1. When setting up the boat with a slotted floor (I know most have a wood floor at this point, I'll get there eventually), Do you put the slats facing up or facing down, and are there benefits to one way or the other? There is printing for the keel valve with the slotted side up, so I assume that is the right side, but thought I would as anyways!

2. When breaking the boat down and packing it up, the directions said it's not necessary to remove the slats to fold up the boat, and I agree, it can be done, although good luck getting the boat into the supplied carry bag. Do you guys who have used, or still us the slotted floor have a trick to roll up with the floor installed, or is it better to just take it out and transport it separately?

Anyhow, Thanks again for all the valuable tips in the forum and look forward to getting to know all you better as I kick off my Mariner boating adventures.

Happy sailing!

JT

 

[bigboatguy]

The correct side is when you can read the printing and access the keel valve through that hole. I guess that's would be the
"smooth side" facing the bottom of the boat.

I roll up the slatted floor separately because handling the boat and floor is too bulky and heavy. I have the smaller Mariner 3 so I can only imagine how heavy the Mariner 4 is! I also duct taped the floor boards entrance holes so they don't keep slipping out when you carry it around.

Have fun out there.

 

[bigboatguy]

Ok here is a Youtube video with the Mariner 3 with the motor mount wheel mod. It's in the beginning of the video. The rest is crabbing.

 

[Leesville18]

Good afternoon,

I have read through this thread quite a bit. Just completed my intex mariner 4 modifications and took it out with a old Johnson 9.5 hp motor (about 60 lb). Had about 500 lb of people, along with about 200 lb of modifications and gear. I was topping out at about 7mph according to my GPS. Does anyone have recommendations for getting more speed out of such a setup? Thanks.

 

[Leesville18]

build photo without boat

 

[Leesville18]

On the water with throttle maxed out

 

[Leesville18]

If anyone's interested - I'm trying out a few modifications to see how fast we can go:
1. removing everything except the flooring motor mounts, and Bimini cover (will be mounted straight to the PVC). The bench seats are quite heavy; I'll use the inflatable ones.
2. added hydrofoil to the outboard
3. using a tiller extension so I can sit further forward
4. deflating the keel for a flat bottom

 

[GabCH]

The correct side is when you can read the printing and access the keel valve through that hole. I guess that's would be the
"smooth side" facing the bottom of the boat.

I roll up the slatted floor separately because handling the boat and floor is too bulky and heavy. I have the smaller Mariner 3 so I can only imagine how heavy the Mariner 4 is! I also duct taped the floor boards entrance holes so they don't keep slipping out when you carry it around.

Have fun out there.

Yah, I do the same, except I store the floor in a separate bag so it is easier to carry. The Mariner 4 is heavy!

 

[Leesville18]

Well my modifications worked out. I had the boat on plane today doing about 12 mph (used Garmin GPS) at 80% throttle. I’m going to modify the tilt angle to see if I can get it up to 100% throttle without the prop coming out of the water. The hydrofoil produces too much lift.

also- if anyone is handy with a welder, harbor freight’s cheapest trailer plus some elbow grease can be turned into a decent trailer for this thing,so you don’t have to spend any time assembling it. I had it in the water and ready to go in just a few minutes by myself. Very convenient for busy boat ramps.

Good luck out there.

 

[Leesville18]

Here’s the video:

 

[Leesville18]

Update for my Mariner 3 speed challenge:
I purchased a 15hp Johnson 2-stroke and got up to 25 mph. Also added a casting deck (with hinges to create storage underneath) and a truss frame to stabilize the floor at high speeds.
Unfortunately (perhaps predictably), on the second day of trials, the engine mount broke. The exposure has been drying up the plywood, and every time the boat goes out, it cracks a little more. I’m planning on building an all metal engine mount, but for now the trolling motor will have to suffice.
On a separate note- I finally learned how to use a bait caster and caught three bass on it.