Information on 1958 and 59 Scott Atwater 60 HP outboards with generators

[latemodel]

All of the major components are now ready for blasting with plastic media. The shop I use does a great job. The surface isn?t left rough like sand blasting, or some glass bead blasting.
I am going to blast the power head on this restoration instead of using paint remover. I have sealed everything tightly, but if a little plastic media gets through it shouldn?t hurt anything.
Found another problem. The starter end bushing in both the 1958 and 59 motors was missing. Apparently they have a habit of walking out.
Scott Service bulletin 179 says that the 58 and 59 bushings were pressed in at the factory and they do not sell the bushing separately, but because of dealer pressure they will now sell a 5/16 ID X 7/16 OD X 3/8 inch Oilite bushing to replace the original. The bulletin says to press the bushing in and then stake the outer end at least three times with a center punch to prevent the bushing from walking out. I?ve ordered a couple of bushings online and I will use some green Loc-tite bearing locker to help it hold in.
The bulletin goes on to say that the 1960 and newer starter brackets have a lip on the end and the bushings do not have to be staked, they can?t get by the lip.
If you are having problems with a 60 HP starter engaging the flywheel, check to see if the bushing is still there.
Next, I am going to bead blast all the smaller painted components that are not going to the blaster and start cleaning up the hardware.

Don

I hope I can finally get the pics to post OK.

 

[latemodel]

The parts for the 58 Scott are finally back from the media blaster. They really look good. For $75 I saved a lot of time and got a better job, especially on the power head. An added bonus is that PPG doesn?t require and type of metal prep for aluminum that is blasted before hand if DLVP epoxy primer is used, and that is what I normally use on aluminum parts.
I?ve spent the waiting time reconditioning the sub-assemblies including the fuel pump, carbs, ignition coils, generator, and starter. I cleaned up all the hardware and bead blasted all the small parts that I didn?t take to the blaster. I was also able to rebuild the junction box that has contains the voltage regulator, circuit breaker, terminal strip, fuel pump, and starter solenoid.
I didn?t redo the paint on the junction box base because it was in fair shape a and the box has an aluminum cover.
Both the 58 and 59 had an electric fuel pump in the J box as well as the mechanical pump on the power head. The 1958 Scott sales literature said it allowed fast starting without hand priming. It?s activated every time the choke is used. The choke is activated by pushing the key in. I am a bit leery of having an electric fuel pump on a boat, but as long as it isn?t working full time, and I control when it?s on, I am going to try it out.
Strangely, the J box cover on the 58 is aluminum, but steel on the 59. They look exactly alike. So what caused the change? Cost? Weight? There are a lot of dents on the aluminum cover, but almost none on the steel. Customers probably complained about dents from water skis, tackle boxes, etc. so it changed to steel.
Now I need to start assembling the jigsaw puzzle back together.

 

[latemodel]

One of the first differences I ran into between the 58 and 59 outboards is the method of sealing the upper end of the driveshaft (splines) from the bottom of the power head. As the photo shows, the 58 adapter plate did not have the brass sealing tube. It just used an O ring on the drive shaft inserted into the bore. The bore in the plate was also smaller. Also the O ring grooves on the two driveshafts are different distances from the end of the shaft.
I had to use the 59 shaft because the 58 was badly damaged from the upper needle bearing failing. I originally cleaned up and installed the 58 adapter plate and luckily I caught the problem in time. I had to tear down the 59 and use its adapter plate and seal.
I believe the change was made because it?s almost impossible to install the lower unit and drive shaft into the power head because getting the O ring plate bore is next to impossible. If it had a tapered entrance, it might have been easier.
The 58 drive shaft must have 58 adapter plate. The 59 shaft must have 59 plate.

Next I'll get into some of the problems I had with the generator.