Info on Evinrude 115 E115TLETS

[frigidbass]

I'm looking at a bass boat with an 1993 (I assume as that is the year that comes up when I search for the model number) Evinrude 115 E115TLETS motor and I attempted to search online but couldn't find much out about it.

I have the following questions:
- is there a model name?
- is this an E-TEC motor? What does that actually mean?
- what ratio the oil is mixed at (50:1?)
- it has an oil tank so I assume the oil is metered and injected automatically?
- what octane fuel it should run?

I will be running it out of the water with earmuffs and then compression testing it during inspection.

I have history building / tuning LS motors however this will be my first experience with a carb.

Amsoil will be ran in this motor as I've had great luck with them and boosted vehicles. Would these products be properly spec'd for the engine/lower?

- AMSOIL HP Marine® 100% Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil or
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 2-Stroke Injector Oil?
- AMSOIL Synthetic Marine Gear Lube 75W-90


Thanks!

 

[racerone]

A crossflow model.----Not am E-TEC-----Do a compression test BEFORE you spend any $$ on this motor.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

No model name other than some stuff stuck on the cowl sometimes. (Saltwater, special, GT)

E-tec's are a lot newer with newer technology. Owned by BRP which is a subsidiary or Bombardier.

87 octane

Oil bottle should be a VRO.....variable ratio oiling. Amsoil in the 2 stroke bottle may be a waste because you can run that stuff lean (100 to 1) your vro has no adjustments. Shouldn't hurt to run it but cost more money to run.

Other than that I run mainly OEM Evinrude sauces

 

[frigidbass]

A crossflow model.----Not am E-TEC-----Do a compression test BEFORE you spend any $$ on this motor.

100% - I plan on running it to warm it up and then performing a hot compression test to ensure the cylinders are all within 10 psi of each other and ideally over 90 psi (or should this be higher?)

No model name other than some stuff stuck on the cowl sometimes. (Saltwater, special, GT)

E-tec's are a lot newer with newer technology. Owned by BRP which is a subsidiary or Bombardier.

87 octane

Oil bottle should be a VRO.....variable ratio oiling. Amsoil in the 2 stroke bottle may be a waste because you can run that stuff lean (100 to 1) your vro has no adjustments. Shouldn't hurt to run it but cost more money to run.

Other than that I run mainly OEM Evinrude sauces

Thank you! What OEM sauces do you run? I found XD50 and that ended up costing more than Amsoil (preferred customer plan discounts it). Although I have no idea if that is even the correct fluid.

 

[Chris1956]

You can run any TCW-3 2 cycle oil in it, w/o issue. I run my '98 Johnny 150HPV6 on Wallyworld TCW-3 oil. It is $21.50 a gal.

 

[racerone]

Shop carefully.----At 90 PSI / cylinder that motor would come apart for rebuild here.

 

[frigidbass]

You can run any TCW-3 2 cycle oil in it, w/o issue. I run my '98 Johnny 150HPV6 on Wallyworld TCW-3 oil. It is $21.50 a gal.

TC-W3 oil is much cheaper, thanks!

Shop carefully.----At 90 PSI / cylinder that motor would come apart for rebuild here.

What should I be targeting? 120psi across all 4 holes with a 10% variation?

 

[racerone]

Tested a 1990 low hr 90 HP recently at 130 PSI on my " known to be good " gauge.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

100 to 140 is standard. Don't wait to start it....just stop and do the test.

Should give you a basic idea right away.

 

[frigidbass]

118-119 psi on all 4 cylinders cold, I ended up buying it, the boat was in amazing shape. Thanks everyone!

 

[Crosbyman]

we like pictures here !!!

 

[frigidbass]

I really need to replace that Royal Purple banner, you couldn't pay me enough to run it now.

Boat details:
New
- tires
- batteries
- 70 lb trolling motor (24v)

The only item not working is the speedometer. I will be removing the existing down/side unit and using the Lowrance 9" from my kayak. Only thing next is to make it through the DMV in NY, fingers crossed! I will have to register the trailer as home made as there is NO vin anywhere, must have been a sticker.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

That outboard should give you years of excellent service. I hope you learn how to properly run it and maintain it.

Excellent setup.

 

[frigidbass]

That outboard should give you years of excellent service. I hope you learn how to properly run it and maintain it.

Excellent setup.

Thank you! I will be investing the next few months getting up to speed on the motor (running and maintaining) before spring. Any suggestions on where I should start? I'm used to V8s in cars.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Well being that that's what I would call a well care for motor, you have two choices. Test the motor and possibly leave some major components alone or just replace everything maintenance wise so that you have a starting point for the rest of this boat's life.

So if we pretend like you have no records and have no idea if the former owner did anything at all this is what I do.

Starting from the bottom take off the prop, whenever I work on a boat I usually leave the prop off so I don't ding it. Inspect all the prop but mainly you want to grease the prop shaft so it comes out in the future. Then we move to the gear case, remove the two screws that hold the gear case oil carefully watching for any water that might come out. If there's any water at all need to find out the source of the leaks and fix them. That will save you a lot of dough.

I would go ahead and invest in the small cheap plastic pump that goes on the Marine gear case bottle so that it's easy to do. Lots online how to do this.

I would do that every year regardless. Knowing what's in there is more important than having new gear oil.

Water pump. Everyone on here says about 5 years on the water pump and I believe that's more of an average so I do it more as to whether I think it needs to be done. Pull off the gear case inspect the kit and see if you just need an impeller or a whole kit. Oftentimes I just change the impeller. By an IR gun and shoot the motor all over the place and make sure that it's not overheating. Just because the pump is pumping water does not mean that the rest of the engine is getting the cooling.

Learn how to grease the drive shaft properly before sticking the gear case back up into the rest of the motor.

Obviously grease all zerk fittings.

Check, clean or replace all spark plugs.

Each season test the overheat sending unit (simple switch) and the vro warning horn. Those motors all kind of vary from year to year but I believe you should have an intermittent beep for low or no oil and a solid tone for the overheat. Overheat is simple, find the tan wire on the back of the head and there should be a rubber cover over The wire. In that wire you can stick some type of metal poker and ground it to any bolt. All that sensor does is ground. Your key must be on an order for the horn to go off. If the horn doesn't go off you'll have to open up the box and test the horn and make sure it works. Replace what's ever broken. I'll let you go online to figure out the vro but I have a feeling you somewhat no motors and probably figured out yourself.

After that it's just about whether it's running correctly and I would need to know individual issues in order to offer suggestions. Always run with good fuel, always top off your tanks in the winter, and try not to ever buy ethanol diluted fuel. There's a website you can go to that shows you all the stations across America with ethanol free gas.

I do all my servicing before I put the boat away for the winter so that I know what shape it's in and so it's ready for the following year. After washing and scrubbing mine, I usually douse it in a half a can of WD-40.

After that, I tell her that she's been a good girl and I can't wait for spring!

Ps, did I talk about fuel filters?

 

[racerone]

New water pump impeller.----Test VRO if it is in service.----Test alarms.----Inspect the 2 thermostats / poppit valves.

 

[flyingscott]

Run the best oil you can afford in that motor. Carbon build up kills them also make sure your thermostats are working. Absolutely makes an injector oil.

 

[Crosbyman]

Evinrude Carbon Guard shoud help...

 

[racerone]

"Absolutely makes an injector oil "-----Explain what that means.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, in 1993 synthetic oil was not even available. We also may have been using TCW-II in those days.

Today's off-brand TCW-III oil is better than what the motor was designed to run on.