Indicator light for bilge pump with built in float switch

[james__12345]

I would like to put a dash light in to show when my bilge pump is running. I've found many places that show how to wire one with a separate float switch and that is very simple, the issue I'm having is that my pumps float switch is built in. Does anyone know how to wire a light up for that, or should I just get a different pump and a separate float switch?

 

[Alumarine]

What make and model is the pump?

 

[dingbat]

The built in flow switch is not different than a separate switch. Wire it the same.

 

[gm280]

Just run wire(s) parallel from the actual pump to your light, where ever you decide to install it. Then any time the pump is running the light will light also. Easy Peasy...

 

[Tassie 1]

Another reason for your battery to run flat.

 

[GA_Boater]

Another reason for your battery to run flat.

Why?

 

[james__12345]

What make and model is the pump?

It's a shoreline best I remember (I'm out of town right now) but it has 3 wires, one hot to the dash switch, one hot that powers the float switch, and a ground. I got it at Walmart a few years ago, it's different model than the one listed on their website now

The built in flow switch is not different than a separate switch. Wire it the same.

Actually it is different than all the diagrams I've seen. When the light wired with the external switch, the light gets it's power by running parallel to wire running out of the switch into the pump. I do not have access to that wire because it is inside the pump.

JustJustust run wire(s) parallel from the actual pump to your light, where ever you decide to install it. Then any time the pump is running the light will light also. Easy Peasy...

The only way I can see to do that would be to open the pump and tie into the wire between the built in switch and the pump and that just seems like a bad idea. If I run it parallel to the wire from the switch to the pump it will only be on when the switch is on which I don't really need. If I run it parallel to the wire feeding power to the internal float switch it will always be on because that wire is always hot.

 

[poconojoe]

If you add a light, it only confirms there is power present at your pump. If your pump is jammed or even dead, you will still think things are OK. Of course, you can always look over the side if the light comes on to see if water is being pumped out.

I might lean towards adding an audible indication as verses a light. Sometimes a light may not be noticed or can be hard to see in bright sunlight.

 

[GA_Boater]

With the built-in switch, the pump has to be opened to tap into the power wire from the switch to the pump. Most pumps can't be opened easily.

For example this Shoreline 800 GPH auto pump. The cartridge is removable, but the case is sealed and glued to the impeller housing and any attempt to open will probably bust it and you need to get into the blue section to the wiring, so more mutilation is needed.

 

[dingbat]

The float switch is simple a "floating" switch housed inside the bilge pump housing. The switch simply opens and closes the circuit. All you need to do is install a lamp in between the pumps black and red wire.

 

[GA_Boater]

The float switch is simple a "floating" switch housed inside the bilge pump housing. The switch simply opens and closes the circuit. All you need to do is install a lamp in between the pumps black and red wire.

Since the red is 12 volts and the black is ground, what turns the light off? Might as well put the light across the battery and stay out of the bilge.

This would work on the other side of the internal switch the red wire connects to, but not on the outside of the pump.

 

[dingbat]

No need to go anywhere near the bilge. My bilge lights is wired in at the 3 way switch at the helm.

if you wired a lamp between the black wire and the ground, would it not light when the float switch actuated?

 

[Tassie 1]

Why?

If the boat is kept in a marina berth or on a mooring etc etc why the need for a light on the dash etc etc when there is no one on board
( my big boat lives on a mooring, auto bilge pumps discharge out rainwater or heavy spray etc etc )

With the trailer boats in the backyard l've forgotten to turn off the battery isolating switch and left the VHF etc on and not gone near the boat for a couple of weeks or so,
can see the same with a dash light, specially if stored away from home, as the ski boat is


anyway, if the bilge pump is working you'll hear it if stationery and should see it as well,

jmho

 

[GA_Boater]

No need to go anywhere near the bilge. My bilge lights is wired in at the 3 way switch at the helm.

if you wired a lamp between the black wire and the ground, would it not light when the float switch actuated?

The black wire is ground, so no it won't light.

With a separate float switch it's probably wired like this. If the helm is flipped to "ON" the light is on and if in "AUTO" the light is on when the pump kicks in.

---

If the boat is kept in a marina berth or on a mooring etc etc why the need for a light on the dash etc etc when there is no one on board
( my big boat lives on a mooring, auto bilge pumps discharge out rainwater or heavy spray etc etc )

With the trailer boats in the backyard l've forgotten to turn off the battery isolating switch and left the VHF etc on and not gone near the boat for a couple of weeks or so,
can see the same with a dash light, specially if stored away from home, as the ski boat is


anyway, if the bilge pump is working you'll hear it if stationery and should see it as well,

jmho

The light isn't for unattended use. It's for when the boat is being operated and to tell when the pump is on. I can't hear my pumps when driving across the lake and depending how loud the radio is when anchored, I can't hear them either. That's not saying I see the light, I have to be paying attention. If i see ripples on the water near the stern, I look over the side at the discharges.

 

[gm280]

Ok, either buy a divorced switch/pump setup, or open the unit you have and wire it like it has to be. No other way to do it other then some tricky circuitry. JMHO

 

[james__12345]

If you add a light, it only confirms there is power present at your pump. If your pump is jammed or even dead, you will still think things are OK. Of course, you can always look over the side if the light comes on to see if water is being pumped out.

I might lean towards adding an audible indication as verses a light. Sometimes a light may not be noticed or can be hard to see in bright sunlight.

That's very true I'm already considering an alarm too, but the issue of where to tap into remains the same either way so I just didn't bother mentioning it.

With the built-in switch, the pump has to be opened to tap into the power wire from the switch to the pump. Most pumps can't be opened easily.

For example this Shoreline 800 GPH auto pump. The cartridge is removable, but the case is sealed and glued to the impeller housing and any attempt to open will probably bust it and you need to get into the blue section to the wiring, so more mutilation is needed.

That is very similar to the pump I have, except mine has 3 wires, and thats basically what I was assuming, and I am not going to open that up. It's sealed for a reason.

GA, you've pretty well made most of the remaining replies I was about to make for me. The diagram you posted is the only thing I've been able to find when searching about this, although I wouldn't need that diagram because that's how I would have done it already if I had the external float switch. You are also exactly right about the reason I want it, to let me know it's kicking on while under way to help alert me to any possible leaks from livewell hoses coming loose or whatever. Also since I bowfish at night alot it's not at all uncommon to hit a log or a rock and with the generator running to power the lights there's no way to hear a pump kick on or water splashing.

 

[GA_Boater]

Well - Here is one more wiring diagram. I almost added it to my last post, but thought it could get confusing. Problem is no way to light the light when the pump auto turns on without breaking inside to tap the wire between the float switch and motor.

You can put a light between the manual tap on the switch and ground, but all you get is a light when the pump is on. The auto side of the switch is constant 12 Volts when flipped, so it's just a lit light saying the pump is in auto mode, not if it's pumping.

Too bad there isn't a 4 wire pump with the extra wire connected to the float to motor wire. Haven't come across any if they are out there.

Wiring in a noisemaker is the same problem as a light with a sealed 3 wire pump.



If you have an extra 15-20 bucks for an external float switch, you can make the 3 wire work the way you want. Don't connect the auto wire, brown (red) in this case, and seal the end. Then wire the pump and switch like so. And you can wire in a horn, to the same places as the light.;

 

[james__12345]

I've been considering a back up pump anyway, so I guess the simple option here is to get a separate pump and switch and make this one the back up. I was in an almost bad situation once with a cracked weld and a bilge pump with a broke hot wire so I've been planning a second pump since then, just haven't done it yet.

 

[GA_Boater]

Now you have a good safety excuse to spend money on the boat. Win-Win!

I have two pumps. One is with an external float switch and wired directly to the battery. And the other is helm switched manually with no float switch. I flip the helm switch and reach in and lift the float switch as part of my pre-launch so I hear both run.

 

[sam am I]

No mods needed, keep what ya got, just need a current sensing switch/relay (example below) inline with the float lead (third wire).........If the float turns the pump on, you can call the cows home with this if you want.



This one (others out there) ^^ assumes the pump will draw no less than 0.75 amps or greater........You could always add a parallel pump or any additional load if your single pump's current draw is marginal tuning on the switch.