Impeller Replacement - and maybe a couple other questions

[km2006]

Hello.
First time poster and a first time boat owner - 2008 Monterey w/5.7 Merc and Bravo 3 with 190 hours, bought with 127 hours.

One of the items on my to-do list this winter is the Impeller. But after figuring our WHERE it is, I got to thinking. Wont all the antifreeze come pouring out once I take the hoses off the pump? If so, would it then be true that I will have to wait until I'm back in the water, choke the valve so I dont sink, then pull the hoses off??

I also have a seal kit for pulling the outdrive off so I can grease the gimble bearing. I replaced the anodes. Anything else I should be looking at while in storage, especially with the outdrive?

Lastly, and this is a tricky one..... The gear lube reservoir on the engine? I am constantly having to add more lube. It is coming out of the cap, thru what appears to be a breather? The top of the cap has oil/lube all over it, and then it goes down the sides of the bottle. Not enough to soak everything. I would add a touch to it after 2-3 outings depending on distance traveled. It never goes below "ADD" but it surely drops from "FILL." Is this normal? I've read about many things it could be, including water pump seals? I have not noticed the engine running hot. Thoughts?

Thanks for the time!

 

[tpenfield]

:welcome:

As far as your questions . . .

You can disconnect the hoses and not do any harm. An empty hose (or engine) will not have the danger of freeze damage, because there would not be water to freeze.

You don't need a seal kit to remove/replace the outdrive. Some folks replace the o-rings (if that is what you mean by seal kit) but if you don't have a kit handy and the o-rings are still in good shape, then you should be fine. A bit of marine grease in the o-ring channels will keep them in place while you put the outdrive back on.

You will want to check the engine alignment before you put the outdrive back on. So, maybe get the alignment tool as well.

If your outdrive fluid is 'burping' out of the reservoir bottle, then it is probably due to an air pocket in the outdrive. I would recommend filling the outdrive with gear lube before you re-install. Be sure to use only the Merc/Quicksilver HIGH PERFORMANCE Gear lube with a Bravo outdrive.

I don't really like the filling procedure that is outlined in the Merc manual . . . too messy. I fill the outdrive with it lowered on its side with the top of the drive in a slightly raised position. This lets you fill from the bottom and then top it off before replacing the top plug.

I think the outdrive weighs about 170 lbs, so be ready to catch it when you remove the bolts (8 total).

 

[km2006]

THank you very much. A couple extra questions below please.

:welcome:

As far as your questions . . .

You can disconnect the hoses and not do any harm. An empty hose (or engine) will not have the danger of freeze damage, because there would not be water to freeze. DO YOU MEAN, THAT THESE HOSES DO NOT HAVE THE ANTIFREEZE IN THEM? A LITTLE CONFUSED.

You don't need a seal kit to remove/replace the outdrive. Some folks replace the o-rings (if that is what you mean by seal kit) but if you don't have a kit handy and the o-rings are still in good shape, then you should be fine. A bit of marine grease in the o-ring channels will keep them in place while you put the outdrive back on. YES, THAT IS WHAT I MEANT. THERE ARE 3 OR 4 O-RINGS I THINK. I GOT THEM JUST IN CASE - CHEAP INSURANCE.

You will want to check the engine alignment before you put the outdrive back on. So, maybe get the alignment tool as well. WILL DO

If your outdrive fluid is 'burping' out of the reservoir bottle, then it is probably due to an air pocket in the outdrive. I would recommend filling the outdrive with gear lube before you re-install. Be sure to use only the Merc/Quicksilver HIGH PERFORMANCE Gear lube with a Bravo outdrive. I WAS PLANNING TO DRAIN/REPLACE THE GEAR LUBE SINCE I DONT KNOW WHEN LAST CHANGED. WILL MAKE SURE TO USE THE RIGHT STUFF. WOULD CHANGING THE OIL SOLVE THE AIR BUBBLE, IF THAT IS THE ISSUE?

I don't really like the filling procedure that is outlined in the Merc manual . . . too messy. I fill the outdrive with it lowered on its side with the top of the drive in a slightly raised position. This lets you fill from the bottom and then top it off before replacing the top plug. YES, I WAS SEEING THAT YOU FILL FROM THE BOTTOM, WAIT FOR IT TO COME OUT OF THE TOP, THEN PULL YOUR PUMP OFF THE BOTTOM AS THE OIL LEAKS BACK OUT. WHAT AN ODD PROCEDURE...

I think the outdrive weighs about 170 lbs, so be ready to catch it when you remove the bolts (8 total). YEAH, I HAVE SOME BLOCKS SETUP TO CATCH IT. THANKS.

 

[alldodge]

Howdy

Agree with Ted and we all do things a bit different. I fill drive from the bottom up, then lay on the side with vent hole up and fill the rest of the way.

As for the burping, I think your drive is full of lube, your issue is the vent cap in the top needs replaced. The vent cap is a one way valve which lets air IN but not OUT. What I think is happening, is the lube heats up and starts to expand, and this is where the cap vent should seal off, but its not doing it. So after a bit the lube is pushed out the cap.

 

[tpenfield]

See my comments below . . .

You can disconnect the hoses and not do any harm. An empty hose (or engine) will not have the danger of freeze damage, because there would not be water to freeze. DO YOU MEAN, THAT THESE HOSES DO NOT HAVE THE ANTIFREEZE IN THEM? A LITTLE CONFUSED.

If your outdrive fluid is 'burping' out of the reservoir bottle, then it is probably due to an air pocket in the outdrive. I would recommend filling the outdrive with gear lube before you re-install. Be sure to use only the Merc/Quicksilver HIGH PERFORMANCE Gear lube with a Bravo outdrive. I WAS PLANNING TO DRAIN/REPLACE THE GEAR LUBE SINCE I DONT KNOW WHEN LAST CHANGED. WILL MAKE SURE TO USE THE RIGHT STUFF. WOULD CHANGING THE OIL SOLVE THE AIR BUBBLE, IF THAT IS THE ISSUE?

1) We have a saying here on iBoats . . . "Air Don't Freeze" . . . if you drain the antifreeze from your engine, what is left in there? (Air) The main purpose of the antifreeze is to replace the water with something that does not readily freeze at winter temperatures. Many folks just empty their engines and blow out any residual water. Antifreeze is not required as long as there is no water left in the engine. You presumably have antifreeze in the engine, so any draining would be inconsequential.

Most likely you will get a little bit of AF that drains, but not much.

2) If you drain and re-fill the outdrive gear oil, then hopefully you will do so in a manner that avoids an air pocket. If that does not solve the issue, then I think AllDodge's recommendation would be the next thing to try. You may also want to run it a little less than the fill line to see if you can avoid any overflowing from expansion. If it gets too low, then the alarm at the helm will sound. I always keep a bottle of gear lube on the boat just in case.

 

[km2006]

Thanks guys. Big help!

 

[alldodge]

One another point just incase its being over looked. If your motors are closed cooling, which means it has a heat exchanger and the block is full of regular antifreeze, then the belt driven water pump does not pump this antifreeze. The belt driven pump circulates raw water thru the heat exchanger and out thru the exhaust.

 

[tpenfield]

Also, There is a bit of technique to replacing the impeller, because it is a tight fit into the housing. Be sure to note the direction in which the impeller vanes are facing when you remove the pump housing.

I use a bit of liquid dish soap to lube the impeller and housing for installation and to act as an initial lube before water from the outdrive gets to it upon the initial startup of the engine.

 

[km2006]

One another point just incase its being over looked. If your motors are closed cooling, which means it has a heat exchanger and the block is full of regular antifreeze, then the belt driven water pump does not pump this antifreeze. The belt driven pump circulates raw water thru the heat exchanger and out thru the exhaust.

How do I know if this is the case? I know the impeller is inside the engine bay. And it looks like the serpentine belt needs to come off, followed by a bracket, and a couple pulleys just to get at the pump....

 

[km2006]

Also, There is a bit of technique to replacing the impeller, because it is a tight fit into the housing. Be sure to note the direction in which the impeller vanes are facing when you remove the pump housing.

I use a bit of liquid dish soap to lube the impeller and housing for installation and to act as an initial lube before water from the outdrive gets to it upon the initial startup of the engine.

Yup, knew that. But wasn't sure of the best lubricant to use. If dish soap works, thats easy then!

 

[alldodge]

How do I know if this is the case? I know the impeller is inside the engine bay. And it looks like the serpentine belt needs to come off, followed by a bracket, and a couple pulleys just to get at the pump....

The heat exchanger in most cases is in front over the top of the pulleys. Looks like this

The belt comes off but not the bracket. Remove the nuts off the blots holding the pump after removing the hoses. The pump should slide right off, and then the other bolts holding the pump housing on.

 

[vans]

this may help
http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7491

 

[alldodge]

this may help
http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7491

That's a gen 7 pump, the OP has a gen 4

 

[km2006]

Ok. I do not have a heat exchanger... And from what I am reading, if I do disconnect one or more hoses from the pump, I will fill the bildge with gallons of antifreeze. That doesn't sound like fun.

So the question is, whether during the winter, or in the spring, how do I disconnect the hose(s) and stop the flow of water/antifreeze? Also, how tight (not having a tensioner sensor) do I make the upper pulley onto the serpentine belt?

P.S. Has anyone developed a pretty sound checklist for doing PM's, whether in the winter or during the season?

 

[alldodge]

Unless your boat is sitting in the water the amount of antifreeze which comes out will not be that much and will not fill the boat.

If it is sitting in the water then the hose going to the pump should be removed and tied up high to keep water from flowing back in. You can also hold up high and insert a 1 inch pvc pipe in it to help tie it up

The serpentine should be tightened until you get around 3/4 inch deflection across the top when pressing down with semi-light to medium pressure.

As for a check list its in the service manual and should be in the owners manual. If your going to do your own repairs you should get the service manual.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Ok. I do not have a heat exchanger... And from what I am reading, if I do disconnect one or more hoses from the pump, I will fill the bildge with gallons of antifreeze. That doesn't sound like fun.



P.S. Has anyone developed a pretty sound checklist for doing PM's, whether in the winter or during the season?

In the stickies at the top of the Mercruiser Sterndrive and Engine forum (http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...es-outdrives/295720-adults-only-no-exceptions) there are lists of things to do for summerizing and winterizing your engine and outdrive. It includes much of the preventative maintenance recommended by Mercruiser. I think those threads are number 10 and 11 in the list that the link points to.

 

[tpenfield]

One point regarding the amount of antifreeze that will come out when disconnecting hoses at the sea water pump . . .

The hose going from the sea water pump to the engine routes up to the top of the engine at the thermostat housing. So, the sea water pump fills the block and manifolds from the top. When you disconnect the hose at the sea water pump, all you will get is the amount of liquid that is in the hose itself. The engine cannot drain from the top and the hose is too large to create a siphon effect.

So, no worries about the bilge. Usually when you have the boat laid up for the off season the transom plug should be out, so the bilge will empty.

 

[km2006]

Thanks! Is there a preferred manual? Or is this simply from Merc?

 

[alldodge]

Thanks! Is there a preferred manual? Or is this simply from Merc?

I would look for Merc manual 31, or if you tell us your serial number we can look up what the manual for you specific engine is and then get it from the Merc dealer.

 

[km2006]

Hey there. So I pulled the outdrive off yesterday.... replaced all the orings before putting it back on. And I greased up the spline shaft real good. But I have a few questions if you don't mind.

1.) the alignment tool. The internal spline left witness marks all the way around but they were SLIGHTLY heavier on the bottom. Getting the tool into the spline wasn't difficult. A slight nudge and it went right in. At what point do you set the engine mounts? I don't think I need to do anything now, but when?

2.) the gear lube delivery button which gets pressed against the detent on the outdrive. I pinched the line in the engine bay coming off the reservoir bottle. When putting the outdrive back on, I saw the gear lube leaking out pretty good. Figured because the detent (ball in outdrive) was pressing against the valve or button.... just to be sure, I pulled the outdrive back out and checked the oring. All good. Put it together and tightened it up. Oil was coming out. Is this normal? Remnants as it's going together, and it will bleed out naturally for a bit?